Are there better rpm ranges to accelerate from ? (1 Viewer)

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I ask , because when I pull away from an intersection , I like to pull ahead into my own pocket . Always seemed a safe practice , and I employ it regularly . I don't race , but am smooth and steady on the throttle to get the job done .

Once in a while I notice something pleasant . . . my acceleration seems smoother and more powerful with less effort . I like to attribute this to nailing the RPM's just right when I choose to get aggressive on the throttle . Almost better it seems to hold back a bit until a certain mysterious RPM is reached and then apply the slow even pressure on the gas .

Can anyone address this for me .. is there a more fruitful method to accelerating ?

Keep in mind I have 35's , stock gearing and the Truspeed recalibrator installed .


TIA ,

TY
 
Junk said:
Stick a blower on there, swap gears and put the hamma down poseboy :flipoff2:


*hanging head* - I know , I know .. I am ashamed at my use of moderation ..


TY - *slulking off ........*
 
Junk said:
Stick a blower on there, swap gears and put the hamma down poseboy :flipoff2:


Or, stick a turbo on there, forgetabout the gears, put the hamma halfway down and pull away from the junkster like he just blew his third (or is it fourth) engine!!! :flipoff2: :D :flipoff2:

Its all relative, no need to hang yer head in shame, cruisers are always cool, and yea to answer your question my pop's stock 80 definitely likes a little extra throttle at about 1200 - if you bury yer foot right off idle it seems less willing then to go halfway on the throttle then plunge more at about 1200 holding to about 3200. HTH.

:cheers:
 
No s*** .. I remember the drive back from Houston .. man was this fawker quick . Now I compensate with the size .. haha


4:88 cost $$ ... I was looking technical prowness ...


TY
 
TY, I noticed similar results when I had my '97. If I pushed the gas pedal progressively it seemed to do better than just nailing it off the line. I always figured it was beneficial somehow to roll on the gas, maybe it didn't drop the fuel pressure as much, maybe it let more vacuum build up (not sure why either of those would make any real difference though)...

I would think the computer would set the timing and fuel mixture correctly for RPM and throttle position, no matter whether you had been wide open a second or two before that or were slowly pushing on the pedal.

My guess is (no scientific data to this at all) is when you floor it off idle the computer reads that as a high load (lots of throttle, not many RPMs, etc), so it doesn't increase the timing as far as it could, but when you roll on the throttle the computer does not interpret that as near as much 'load' so it lets the timing get avanced further.

No I don't know what I'm talking about, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once.. :D
 
this sounds like a thread to lower one's MPG!
 
What the heck is that?
 
I think those are 8.5mm plug wires, not 85mm, maybe each wire going to it's own coil, hard to tell, never seen that before...
 
mabrodis said:
No I don't know what I'm talking about, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once.. :D


Haha .. classic ! :flipoff2:

When I read your next lengthy post , I'll have to remember what my calculus prof used to reinforce .. 'read the ENTIRE test before beginning' . Maybe while you're throwing in the Holiday Inn towel , you could do the same on your technical reports career .. :D :D ;p


TY - *confused as ever*

MORE COWBELL !!
 
LX_TREME,
Did that modification yield good results? Is it CA smog legal? What exactly is it? I would love to squeeze all the power I can out of my FZJ.
 
Aseif007 said:
LX_TREME,
Did that modification yield good results? Is it CA smog legal? What exactly is it? I would love to squeeze all the power I can out of my FZJ.
I'm guessing it's not his engine bay as normal, but either way I'd highly doubt it do much more than a placebo increase.
 
Ty,

Done plenty of vehicle evaluations. Foot on floor = best acceleration without exception.

What can be achieved by rolling onto the throttle is avoiding a downshift that would actually cause overall slower acceleration from say 15 up to 30mph. In this situation, you may get there quicker by pushing down until *just* before a kickdown is activated. Were an identical vehicle next to you and its driver pushed a bit harder, it may have dropped back a half car length to engage 1st gear, but would not make that gap back up before 30mph is achieved.

These "mid-accelerations" can be faster, but from rest simply flooring it is best.

On the other hand, if your truck is not pulling well at higher RPMs (making this roll on strategy seem better than flooring it into high RPMS on your particular rig), then consider that yours might need some attention. Plugs, injector cleaning, throttle body cleaning, air filter, plug wires, etc.

Having said that, it's my impression these engines tend to flatten out on pulling at higher revs due to their excellent low end torque.

DougM
 
Aseif007 said:
LX_TREME,
Did that modification yield good results? Is it CA smog legal? What exactly is it? I would love to squeeze all the power I can out of my FZJ.


I remember a thread some time ago where the wise CruiserDan stated for the record that there is no significant improvement to be had over the stock ignition. That was enough for me to stick with stock. I know nology is all the rage these days and i've never compared back to back with stock but in general i think its gonna dissappoint you to go through the trouble to replace the stock setup as far as I have ever heard. HTH.

So, LX, was THAT actually a pic of YOUR engine? Cant imagine bling boys like you (meant as complimentary as possible) would have such dirty stuff. If so, tell us what the difference was between the stock and the nology wires. If not, man i must say, you're the worst tease I've ever known!!! :flipoff2: :D :flipoff2: You are the cruiserhead equivalent to a pasty (meant as complimentary as possible of course; hey, I like pastys as they show more than they hide. Only problem is in the world of silicone and the world of your posts, you never really know what yer lookin at underneath- if its real or fake!!! :D All in fun! cheers:
 
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I was just curious if there were any gains. So I am confused, is it worth while?
 
Doug , I appreciate the input . I think the reason I don't floor it very often is because it almost seems abusive to the drive train . I have no idea what it can take , so I usually feel a little sick after I gun it . Maybe thats why I defaulted to this other behaviour I described .

All my servicing is up to date , with much of what you list being done in the last 3 months .And today I completed the transition to full synthetic 80 by switching over the transfer case. Shes good to go now .. :)

But out of curiousity, how much 'flooring' were these trucks designed to take? Is that abusive, or all part of the 80's day?


:cheers:


TY
 
An interesting anecdotal story about durability testing. In a former life I was a Product Planner for (cough, cough) GM. They had an amazing program there that was fully funded and run by some highly talented folks but the results never made it into GM's everyday quality. Too bad. Anyhow, it was called the Mona Lisa program. They ran cars all day and sometimes all night long on a durability loop out at the Proving Grounds. They really beat the living crap out of them. They had huge potholes lined with steel (never changed shape), fake McDonald's entrances hit at speed (flexed the crap out of bodies - popped rear windows out of cars), and tons of full throttle shifting. There were lots of lessons learned but one is relevant to your question.

Turns out that if you beat the living crap out of a drivetrain like that it will pretty much simply accelerate wear uniformly. By this, I mean if a transmission's cooling system used cheap internal tubing with rough surfaces that would attract buildup, the cooling system would lose capacity quickly, the fluid would get hotter than designed and age quickly by losing it's additive package, the tranny clutches would slip more than designed and generate more heat, and eventually a bushing would fail and a chunk would block a tiny opening in the valve body and it would no longer shift right. Intentional runon sentence to create an example of accelerated wear taking place in 6 months vs 6 years.

So, the tranny (or any other component) would simply have its ageing accelerated by the abuse rather than after 500 redline shifts in a single day causing a component to snap. Rare. In 20,000 miles, they could put the equivalent of 100,000 miles on a vehicle by beating on it. Even the crud cars would take this abuse - they just wore a lot faster. But they wouldn't break - just follow an accelerated wear path.

From other GM durability testing, if you beat the crap out of them, BUT changed out fluids on an accelerated schedule (like tranny oil every month, engine oil weekly) they wouldn't wear like that. Fresh fluids, fresh additives, no wear particles causing added wear.

So, just a little background to get to my response, which is:

I feel the answer to your question is that you could beat the crap out of your drivetrain and not see much of a change in wear if you accelerate the maintenance accordingly. This is particularly so since the 80 is at the very high end in terms of the durability of it's basic engineering, materials use, and design.

I've incorporated this info into my own 80's maintenance. In the summer when the 93 sees a lot of towing I'll drain and fill the tranny an extra time or two. Some might see this as a bit excessive, and I agree. But most aren't planning to include an 80 they bought new to in their will to one of their children (both of whom it carried home from the hospital when they were born) after using it fairly hard at times. Plus it only takes about $10 and 20 minutes of my time.

So, go to the rough duty maintenance schedule, and beat the crap out of it!

DougM
 

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