ARB Fridge/Freezer instruction - online?

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desertdude said:
I am waiting until the jury is out on the two zone ;)

I think this device will make your fridge run harder (more area to cool)

you can run the fridge to freeze and protect items up top with a layer of thin foam without the two zone

I agree that the compressor will work harder. I do not foresee it being a problem since the ARB32/35 has the same compressor as the 40/45 model. The two models are identical in almost every way except the 32/35 is 4" shorter.
 
The D/C fuse is 10 amps. This is plenty of protection for the size of the wiring. The max draw is something like 2.2 amps.
 
97 FZJ80 said:
I agree that the compressor will work harder. I do not foresee it being a problem since the ARB32/35 has the same compressor as the 40/45 model. The two models are identical in almost every way except the 32/35 is 4" shorter.

hmmmm interesting - let us know how it works out
 
One more question - where does the rubber mat go? Below the basket inside the fridge?
 
97 FZJ80 said:
One more question - where does the rubber mat go? Below the basket inside the fridge?

Yes - and be sure and seal - with zip locks or even double seal all meats - spillables and especially seafood - you will thank yourself later for this :)
 
97 FZJ80 said:
One more question - where does the rubber mat go? Below the basket inside the fridge?

don't know if yours has diff colored sides -- mine's green up -- under the basket.

Like desertdude says -- double bag all meats and/or anything that might spill some sort of liquid. You'll be happier not having to clean up after the trip. :D
 
NorCalDoug said:
don't know if yours has diff colored sides -- mine's green up -- under the basket.

Like desertdude says -- double bag all meats and/or anything that might spill some sort of liquid. You'll be happier not having to clean up after the trip. :D

Yep. The pad is green on one side and black on the other. There is a also a sealed plastic bag covering the pad.

Thanks for the tip on double bagging everything. As I plan on carry kids/baby food in the fridge.

I just found an old ARB catalog and my ARB fridge is the older model with the fork-styled hinge and the 3.5Amp-12V compressor.
 
Just got mine mounted in the truck. Cheap solution for now until I get the transit lock and drawers in.

FYI, Compact Appliance has 5% off plus free shipping on everything this weekend. Got a bag, transit lock, and thermometer. :D

DSC00943.JPG
 
question - once you've run the fridge without starting for 48 hours, how long does the truck need to run to charge back up the battery for another 48 hours? granted, 48 hours is fine for most weekends but i'm curious on longer stays at one place.
 
loeky said:
question - once you've run the fridge without starting for 48 hours, how long does the truck need to run to charge back up the battery for another 48 hours? granted, 48 hours is fine for most weekends but i'm curious on longer stays at one place.

Let's assume you have a 50 amp hour battery, and after starting it is completely drained. Your alternator can make 80 amps give or take. Lets say the max charge rate of the battery is 25 amps. In 2 hours, your battery will be back to full capacity. A bigger battery (an Optima Group 31 is 75 amphours) would take longer, but would not discharge as far. This is worst case scenerio,. On my FJ40 you can tell by the ammeter when the battery is taking a charge and when it is full. After the average day and night, it's fully charged in an hour at most. Seriously, the fridge does not tax the capability of the system in overnight use. For longer periods without running, it would be different.
 
Montana Cruiser said:
Do you have a guage in the dash of the truck? If so, can you post a pic?

I have an indoor/outdoor temp gauge that's velcroed on to the front of the Engel transit bag. The outdoor sensor sits between the basket and the inside of the Engel wall. This allows me to see the temp inside the fridge and it's really cheap at most stores. At one time the rear power cord came out of the fridge from sliding in/out and the temp gauge told me that the temp inside is climbing. Otherwise, I'd have never known it!

Ali
 
alia176 said:
I have an indoor/outdoor temp gauge that's velcroed on to the front of the Engel transit bag. The outdoor sensor sits between the basket and the inside of the Engel wall. This allows me to see the temp inside the fridge and it's really cheap at most stores. At one time the rear power cord came out of the fridge from sliding in/out and the temp gauge told me that the temp inside is climbing. Otherwise, I'd have never known it!

Ali

I do have a magnetic one with a metal probe that seems to work well ..... was just wondering about the "in-dash" guage sounded trick:D
 
I would also be interested in the two zone, depending on the price. The current retail is the same for what I paid for my ARB 45 that was "slightly used/dented in shipping".

Get it in the $200 range and I would be down.

-Jack
 
desertdude said:
Yes - and be sure and seal - with zip locks or even double seal all meats - spillables and especially seafood - you will thank yourself later for this :)

He is absolutely correct. In the event that this sage advice goes unheeded...


recently at a party in Baja, a buddy handed me a bag of raw halibut fillets that were left over from the cookout. It was a typical grocery store plastic bag. I assumed that the fillets inside were secured in a ziplock baggie. I was soooo wrong. Consequently, after a hundred or so miles of off-road through the mountains, it became painfully obvious that there was liquid fish funk all over the bottom of my beloved Norcold 60. :crybaby:

The solution:

1. Use a damp rag to sponge up/wipe out as much fish funk as possible.
2. Sprinkle baking soda all over the bottom of the fridge.
3. Use a dripping wet rag to wipe the baking soda around (gently) until it becomes a paste.
4. Use the wet rag to spread the paste all over the interior floor and walls of the fridge.
5. Let it sit overnight.
6. Use clean damp rags to wipe out all of the baking soda paste until the interior is completely clean and dry.
7. Use one box of Arm & Hammer "fridge" baking soda - open and let sit in the fridge for a couple of days. This box is made with mesh screens that allow the odors to be absorbed into the box, while preventing the powder from getting out. So you can drive around without the box spilling.

This worked very well for me and the interior of the fridge is like new again :cheers:


Also, regarding adding a temp. gauge to monitor the fridge. As has been mentioned, I have found this to be very helpful in monitoring the precious referigerated cargo. For my remote temp. sensor, I ran the wire lead into the fridge box by removing the plastic cover that sits over the box on the end where the motor and cooling line goes into the box. This is how it looks on my 60L.

fridge019.jpg



fridge05.jpg



fridge06.jpg



And here is the temp. guage...

thermo004.jpg



It has been my experience that having the gauge somewhere that you can easily see it while driving makes a difference. It allows you to keep your goods just the way you want them. And as was mentioned in a previous post, it can avert disaster if you forget to turn the fridge on, or there is an elec. problem or something like that. In my case, the fridge temp. will vary depending on the ambient air temp. so it's nice to be able to see at glance if the setting you had it on in the morning needs to be tweaked a bit on a very hot afternoon. I generally run the temp at around 30F.

The full article on my setup can be found HERE if anyone wants to see the freakshow... ;p a 60L fridge crammed inside of a Tacoma Xcab.
 
baja -

i like the idea of the 12v thermometer. i don't think it would reach the cargo hold in my 60 though - any idea if one can extend the wire easily? i'm not sure if it can just be spliced and go from there...
 
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