ARB Dakar Spring Problems

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Mine are doing the same thing with the associated "clunk" while turning.
Rubber bushings are apparently noa good idea with the New Dakkar's..

Guess I need to call Kurt..
 
It seems to be random, On my set of dakars, the passenger front and drivers rear had the sleeve slip, cutting the shoulders off the bushings. They were on for seven months I staked them and it held a little while but not permanent.
If you use them hard the eyelets will stretch during articulation, even if only .005" .
The eyelet is cute but apparently no other manufacturer seems to agree with ARB as to it's effectiveness.
I didn't have any problems with my aussie made springs in 10+ years
 
Ditto... Mine a a few years old and clunking horribly after a total of 5K miles... not acceptable and I know there is an answer.
 
Just remember guys, the Dakar series is made by Belton, supposedly to OME specs. No longer are the springs made in Australia but out of recycled battle ships and whatever steel can be found cheap. No jokes, no stories, Dakar is a different beast to what you could purchase before that was made from BHP steel.
 
I just noticed an insert on one of my beltons came out with the bushing when I removed the front suspension to transfer to another 60. Seems like the permanent optinon is to tack weld it in place?
 
Hmmm..

jzilla said:
I just noticed an insert on one of my beltons came out with the bushing when I removed the front suspension to transfer to another 60. Seems like the permanent optinon is to tack weld it in place?
Click to expand...

I'm thinking heat on spring steel is a bad idea, Epoxy and a good cleaning/prep might be a better idea if you can get the sleeve all the way out.
 
jzilla said:
I just noticed an insert on one of my beltons came out with the bushing when I removed the front suspension to transfer to another 60. Seems like the permanent optinon is to tack weld it in place?
Click to expand...

Kurt has your answer a page back, I underlined the key words :)

cruiseroutfit said:
Why the insert?
The spring eyes are handformed, they could have made them to fit the 35mm bushings just as the old springs did, however it was decided that by using an insert, the bushing would have a much more consistent surface to ride against, as well as be less likely to be damaged by the spring itself. According to the tech, it is pretty uncommon to have sleeve move, but the fix is easy. If you can pull the sleeve all the way out of the spring, do so, and slightly "crush" it in a vice to make it an elongated shape (very slightly). Then, press it back into the spring, this should hold it for good. If it moves a bit, but not enough to completely remove it, use a punch to "stake" it into the spring, the best location being right where the main leaf eye termintates as there is a small gap there.
Click to expand...
 
I did see that...ok I will try that! maybe some bearing locktite added in? hmm
Oh and two of them came out after hammering out the pins to remove the springs. Came off after 9 years (with greased pins) fairly easy though :)
 
Bumping this lovely thread.

Are we still in agreement that the yellow OME bushings are the way to go? I know where I'll be buying them from :) **cough**Kurt**cough**

Just wanna make sure. I need to get this fixed over Spring Break

Thanks!
 
I tried stock rubber and they died rapidly.. Replaced with OME bushings and still running strong..
 
klinetime574 said:
Bumping this lovely thread.

Are we still in agreement that the yellow OME bushings are the way to go? I know where I'll be buying them from :) **cough**Kurt**cough**

Just wanna make sure. I need to get this fixed over Spring Break

Thanks!
Click to expand...

**cough** looking forward to helping you **cough** :D
 
I've had ome on my fj62 now for about a year and have "the clunk". it happens only when turning at very slow speeds to the right and only at the extreme full turn. I've been worried about my bushings getting eaten up. they are ome too. today I finally fond where my play was coming from. not the shackle end but the fixed end. I did torque them to 95 ft/lbs as I believe is right (please correct me if I'm wrong). I think my hanger may be a little stretched allowing the spring eye to move about. 1/8 of an inch. the front hanger is now taking the slack by flexing through he frame which worries me about eventual fatigue. I'm going to see what happens by snugging up the fixed hanger bolt. any reason I should not just keep tightening until the bushing is snug uncouth to take away the play?
 
lcwizard said:
why doesn't everybody just put in a call to ARB U.S.A and express their views. Otherwise nothing will change
Click to expand...

I had a lengthy discussion with them at last years SEMA. The short answer is that they sell the crap out of the springs and get very few complaints.

In essence, they don't care enough to make things right..
 
I had the problem with the famous clonk https://vimeo.com/73066922 which was really unacceptable.I find the problem with installing a go pro under the car.Had to change the the rear + spring because she was way over arced witch causes a enormous lean to one side.
Now I have two - springs in the back and the truck is levelled and no more clonk.
A other problem is that before the ome lift my 33,12,5 x15 front tyres did no rub but with the lift they do :mad:

P1010643.webp
 
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