ARB compressor and front locker wiring ??? (1 Viewer)

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bluecruiser

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I installed the compressor today. I ran the wires and have them all connected to the compresssor and am now on the inside wiring to the switches.

There are two wires that I do not know where to connect them. From the instructions they need to go to 15 amp power and come on when the key is in the ACC or ON position.

These wires are red/yellow stripe and blue/white stripe. Can somebody tell me where to connect these inside the truck. I think the inside fuse box would be where to connect them but I am not sure. I have zero experience with wiring anything.

Thanks
 
another question for those who installed the ARB switches.

it seems the spots need to be Dremeled out a bit to fit the switches in...I am going to use a couple of the open switch blank areas next to and above the factory rear rotary dial....

before I go using the Dremel, am I correct that the spots need made a little bigger?

thanks again....

somebody help me soon...need to get this stuff put in tomorrow...thanks
 
Have you considered using the OEM FR/RR rotary locker switch?
 
I have to find my wiring diagram. I think one is for power when the ignition is on and one is for the dimmer so the lights in the switches will dim with other dash lights. You only need the one if you don't want them light up while the switches are not in the "ON" position.
 
Norcal, you are right, the blue wire says it is for the active illumination. I am just needing somebody with a 100 series to chime in and let me know what wire they ran the other wire to (where do I get the 12V power with the 15 amp relay that is on when in ON and ACC position only???)

thanks
 
bluecruiser, I'll post my PM reply here as other's might benefit from it:

Yes, wiring the 80 series rotary switch is pretty simple. It allows you two positions: 1) lock rear 2) lock FR&RR. So, the only downside is that you cannot lock only the fronts without locking the rear. I'm okay with that.

If you have OEM rear diff locks, you can also make it so the rotary switch activates the air compressor when you select the rear locker so that it'll charge the system as soon as you select the next position, FR&RR. You'll want to use a relay. Look here.

I forget where I took the +12v power since I did it awhile back but I think I took it from one of the switched accessory plugs on the center console which I think are fused at 15amps. I used the ARB mini compressor and it only draws a max of 6 amps.

And to go one step further, your LC dash has a front locker indicator in it. You can make it work by doing this.
 
It doesn't really matter where you draw your power from for the switch. I always run a separate fuse panel in all of my Cruisers. Usually I mount them in the kick panel above the dead pedal. In the 100, I put it in the console but I'm thinking I'll relocate it. I hate taping into factory wiring. The only disadvantage to doing it this way is the locker and pump could be activated without the key in it. If I were going to pick a factory spot I'd go for one of the power outlets or cig. lighter or radio. I can't recall they might all be on the same circuit but these are all things you could live without should a problem pop up.
 
You may find a 12 volt supply and spare fuses in the kick panel, AHC, rear aircon etc.
If you have the big compressor, the 12 volt supply will only draw a couple of amps for the solenoids and the relay for the compressor. The compressor will be switched by the relay from the battery supply. If you have the mini compressor you need more amps to supply the compressor.
 
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It doesn't really matter where you draw your power from for the switch. I always run a separate fuse panel in all of my Cruisers. Usually I mount them in the kick panel above the dead pedal. In the 100, I put it in the console but I'm thinking I'll relocate it. I hate taping into factory wiring. The only disadvantage to doing it this way is the locker and pump could be activated without the key in it. If I were going to pick a factory spot I'd go for one of the power outlets or cig. lighter or radio. I can't recall they might all be on the same circuit but these are all things you could live without should a problem pop up.


Eric, one has to be careful since the small ARB compressor does not use a relay and has a pretty good current draw. I agree that the switching side of the solenoids and a relay is nothing, but one has to make sure that the compressor is not on the same circuit.
 
I have the compressor wire to the switches now. For now I went with the ARB switches.

I have another question. Does the compressor have to be left on once it gets full and stops running in order to turn on the lockers?

I have not run the air line yet to the diff but when I was wiring it I noticed when I turned on the compressor, it ran for maybe 10 seconds or so then stopped. When I turned on the locker switch, I could hear the air come out and the compressor would start back up. I get that part.

But if I let the compressor fill up and stop then turned it off, then tried to turn on the lockers, they would not come on.

I am sure it is supposed to work that way but I was wondering if it working right

Thanks for the help
 

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