ARB Lockers re-wiring (1 Viewer)

[Snook]

After dual ARB lockers was installed on my 00 UZJ100 last summer, I found this two ARB lockers switches at my left dashboard too cluttered.

So I brought a 1997 dual switch locker (1997 is the last year w/ two factory lockers) but we can't figure out how to hook up.

Do any 100 series owner with TWO ARB lockers, (not 98, 99 that have rear factory locker) successfully wired to a single dual switch locker with two ARB lockers?

Regards,

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

locker

I just did mine, but I already had the rear locker, so just one wire had to go to hook up the wire in the arb harness that activates solenoid for the front locker.

 

[hoser]

Here's how I did it. Dual ARB lockers. All the other wires aren't needed. You can also wire the ARB compressor to the rear locker position on the switch so that it activates (like what Slee did). This will eliminate the ARB compressor switch for a cleaner panel.

 

[100 TD]

As Hoser says......
The wiring to the switches has power for the lights in the switches and grounds for them and switch wires so the front locker does not come on without the rear., that means lots of un-necessary wires when using the factory switch.
All that is needed on the factory switch is the power wire and the wire for the rear and front solenoid, and if you want, the compressor wire joined to the rear solenoid wire. (If you don't want manual control ofyour compressor for blowing up tires etc)

 

[Snook]

Cool!

Can you confirmed this photo with new color connections after looking at your photo?

I wasn't expecting so many other ARB wires to ended up useless.

Thanks Hoser!

 

[100 TD]

Without digging out the diagram (possibly available on arbusa.com) I would say yes as the 2 yellow wires should be joined together in the harness, when power goes down the yellow to the rear locker solenoid it also puts power to the front switch so it can be activated. (Something like that anyway)

 

[100 TD]

http://www.arbusa.com/alac/alsp/5-08.pdf

 

[Snook]

100TRD & Hoser,

Great, here is what I draw based from your feedback into this wiring diagram.

How's that?

Cheers,

 

[100 TD]

Not quite.

The left diagram shows
Red-yellow as the main power feed
Red as the feed to the compressor, and also to the diff lock feed
Yellow to rear lock solenoid
Green to front lock solenoid

In your diagram you have joined the Yellow to the Red-yellow

If you want to remove the compressor switch, wire the Red-yellow to terminal 2, Yellow and the Red to terminal 5, Green to 4

If you are just replacing the solenoid switches put Red to 2 , Yellow to 5 and Green to 4

 

[sleeoffroad]

Jay has front and rear ARB's. He needs the compressor to be on before the rear locker is engaged. So I would split the compressor circuit from the lockers. Keep a manual switch for the compressor, but have that feed the lockers switch so that you need that one, before you can turn the lockers on.

We wire the compressor to the rear locker switch when the truck has factory rear locker.

 

[Snook]

Here is revised diagram included ARB Air Compressor switch

 

[100 TD]

Looks good!

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Back to the top gentlemen.


I too just picked up a 00 hundy and would like to use the factory 97 switch to keep it looking OEM. Since all the images are missing from this thread, I was hoping someone would be able to post a picture or diagram again.

Thanks in advance.

 

[100 TD]

http://www.arb.com.au/resources/pdf/airLockers/3-04.pdf

In this diagram you replace the left 2 switches with the OEM 100 series diff lock switch. Just use the RED to power the switch and then hook the YELLOW (Rear) & DARK GREEN to the other 2 pins to go to the solenoids. You don't need any other wires at the OEM switch. The Isolator switch is your compressor switch.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

http://www.arb.com.au/resources/pdf/airLockers/3-04.pdf

In this diagram you replace the left 2 switches with the OEM 100 series diff lock switch. Just use the RED to power the switch and then hook the YELLOW (Rear) & DARK GREEN to the other 2 pins to go to the solenoids. You don't need any other wires at the OEM switch. The Isolator switch is your compressor switch.

Thanks mate. I tried yor link in post seven before asking, but it appears too much time has passed for even the link.

 

[spressomon]

J: The OEM 80-switch does look nice however I find myself using the front locker by itself plenty often. The 100 front end seems to be alot lighter/less traction than an 80...hence using the front locker more often sans rear locked.

Just and FYI and another opinion

 

[rusty_tlc]

Back to the top gentlemen.


I too just picked up a 00 hundy and would like to use the factory 97 switch to keep it looking OEM. Since all the images are missing from this thread, I was hoping someone would be able to post a picture or diagram again.

Thanks in advance.

If you want you can come over and look at how I did it.

BTW welcome to the club.

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

J: The OEM 80-switch does look nice however I find myself using the front locker by itself plenty often. The 100 front end seems to be alot lighter/less traction than an 80...hence using the front locker more often sans rear locked.

Just and FYI and another opinion

Good point and well thought out as usual. Thanks D-

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

If you want you can come over and look at how I did it.

BTW welcome to the club.

Thanks and thanks. I pm'd you back.

 

[100 TD]

Thanks mate. I tried yor link in post seven before asking, but it appears too much time has passed for even the link.

Thats why the link in post 14 is different, ARB keep changing where they put things! Go to page 5 of the link.
http://www.arb.com.au/resources/pdf/airLockers/3-04.pdf