Anyone tried or know about this Diff breather kit?

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Yes, that's the fitting I'm referring to.

I have seen some have a tiny orifice and some do not. I recently checked mine and mine was already open (not just a pinhole). However, when I first did mine, my fitting was clogged with hardened grease so it was plugged.

The following are links to exactly what I used. This is enough to do front and rear. (have to buy a filter for each thing vented)

Wix fuel filter as breather

1/4" Fuel Hose (25 ft)

Hose clamps

Line clamps



Would either one of these work as well? Theyre at the local shops here so figured since Im off work today i could try to make it happen before end of today
 
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Would either one of these work as well? Theyre at the local shops here so figured since Im off work today i could try to make it happen before end of today
Yup! Those work as well!

You can buy 1/4" fuel line (you can use the non-high pressure or the high pressure) from a local like Autozone or O'Reilly. Same with the clamps and such or Menards, Lowes, Home Depot.
 
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Would either one of these work as well? Theyre at the local shops here so figured since Im off work today i could try to make it happen before end of today

Yes, that's the fitting I'm referring to.

I have seen some have a tiny orifice and some do not. I recently checked mine and mine was already open (not just a pinhole). However, when I first did mine, my fitting was clogged with hardened grease so it was plugged.

The following are links to exactly what I used. This is enough to do front and rear. (have to buy a filter for each thing vented)

Wix fuel filter as breather

1/4" Fuel Hose (25 ft)

Hose clamps

Line clamps
Oh and also, where did you route/mount the hose and filter for the rear diff then? You were saying the 25ft of hose is long enough to do both, I will def do both, now that I know. Originally was only thinking about doing the front, but doing both while im down there is better
 
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Awesome! Hey again I really appreciate the directions kind sir, Im going to add all of those in my “cart” right now and attempt this asap! Seems easy enough to do even with my broken clavicle💪🏼🦾

If you happen to watch the youtube video that i linked, could you help explain what he did to that catch can at the 15:00 minute mark? He said he “repurposed” the pcv canister.
I understand you explained normally its for something else but it looks like he used it in a different way, as part of the breather system?
He used a PCV catch can (because he had it) and added a filter to the top of it (It's an old-school valve cover vent filter where PCV's ended up going eventually) to do essentially the same thing we're talking about doing. his look cooler and more expensive because he does videos about stuff and makes $$$ on the hits.
 
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He used a PCV catch can (because he had it) and added a filter to the top of it (It's an old-school valve cover vent filter where PCV's ended up going eventually) to do essentially the same thing we're talking about doing. his look cooler and more expensive because he does videos about stuff and makes $$$ on the hits.
Haha ok got it, i appreciate your time sir…thank you once again. Im off to the shop to find these parts then👍🏼
 
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Oh and also, where did you route/mount the hose and filter for the rear diff then? You were saying the 25ft of hose is long enough to do both, I will def do both, now that I know. Originally was only thinking about doing the front, but doing both while im down there is better
I routed the rear up into the LR quarter panel where the jack and stuff is. There is a grommet at the bottom of that quarter panel you can push the hose through. The only thing I don't like about it is it creates a low spot where fluid could pool inside the hose and cause the axle to be under slight pressure to push past the gear oil in the winter.

Otherwise, route it up as high as you can under the frame above the rear axle and make sure the exit hose turns down so debris and water cannot get in, and there is an air bubble if going through water.
 
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I routed the rear up into the LR quarter panel where the jack and stuff is. There is a grommet at the bottom of that quarter panel you can push the hose through. The only thing I don't like about it is it creates a low spot where fluid could pool inside the hose and cause the axle to be under slight pressure to push past the gear oil in the winter.

Otherwise, route it up as high as you can under the frame above the rear axle and make sure the exit hose turns down so debris and water cannot get in, and there is an air bubble if going through water.

Ok this part is new to me as in figuring out the area…ive never done any work in that space. Ill take a look for sure though.

What about if I try and route it all the way to the front and mount it next to the one for the front? Ive just read and saw this, thread

Post in thread 'Pics of extended diff breather?'
Pics of extended diff breather? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pics-of-extended-diff-breather.886152/post-9982038
 
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Ok this part is new to me as in figuring out the area…ive never done any work in that space. Ill take a look for sure though.

What about if I try and route it all the way to the front and mount it next to the one for the front? Ive just read and saw this, thread

Post in thread 'Pics of extended diff breather?'
Pics of extended diff breather? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pics-of-extended-diff-breather.886152/post-9982038
And of course would add that extra 12” of hose pointed downward on the other side of the filter
 
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Ok this part is new to me as in figuring out the area…ive never done any work in that space. Ill take a look for sure though.

What about if I try and route it all the way to the front and mount it next to the one for the front? Ive just read and saw this, thread

Post in thread 'Pics of extended diff breather?'
Pics of extended diff breather? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/pics-of-extended-diff-breather.886152/post-9982038
You can route all the way to the front, but you'll need to make sure you tie that hose up so it doesn't get caught on twigs, grass, or other stuff under the truck.

What's your intended use of the truck? If you think you're going to do lots of water crossings, then, yeah maybe so. If only occasionally and slowly, and only about 12"-24" deep, then just take it up to the frame (like up by the LSPV) and call it good. Don't overcomplicate something that doesn't need it.

BTW, the petrol LC's are NOT good with deep water crossings......All the ones on YouTube are diesels..........

I routed my hose along the rear trailing arms and zip tied them there, then up to the frame. That helps with vertical movement.
 

MoJ

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Source the bulk hose. Grab some of the below at $7 each. Boom…kit.

82F6D01E-7C00-4223-8534-CEB645FE1113.jpeg
 
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The part im referring to is at the 15:00 minute mark.
That makes zero sense. Royal Purple has nothing to do with anything. I don't understand how you could even get gear oil up to that point unless you actually *pressurized* the differentials or transfer case. It's a *breather*, not a reservoir.

I followed the instructions from the FAQ. Works great:

 
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You can route all the way to the front, but you'll need to make sure you tie that hose up so it doesn't get caught on twigs, grass, or other stuff under the truck.

What's your intended use of the truck? If you think you're going to do lots of water crossings, then, yeah maybe so. If only occasionally and slowly, and only about 12"-24" deep, then just take it up to the frame (like up by the LSPV) and call it good. Don't overcomplicate something that doesn't need it.

BTW, the petrol LC's are NOT good with deep water crossings......All the ones on YouTube are diesels..........

I routed my hose along the rear trailing arms and zip tied them there, then up to the frame. That helps with vertical movement.
You can route all the way to the front, but you'll need to make sure you tie that hose up so it doesn't get caught on twigs, grass, or other stuff under the truck.

What's your intended use of the truck? If you think you're going to do lots of water crossings, then, yeah maybe so. If only occasionally and slowly, and only about 12"-24" deep, then just take it up to the frame (like up by the LSPV) and call it good. Don't overcomplicate something that doesn't need it.

BTW, the petrol LC's are NOT good with deep water crossings......All the ones on YouTube are diesels..........

I routed my hose along the rear trailing arms and zip tied them there, then up to the frame. That helps with vertical movement.
You can route all the way to the front, but you'll need to make sure you tie that hose up so it doesn't get caught on twigs, grass, or other stuff under the truck.

What's your intended use of the truck? If you think you're going to do lots of water crossings, then, yeah maybe so. If only occasionally and slowly, and only about 12"-24" deep, then just take it up to the frame (like up by the LSPV) and call it good. Don't overcomplicate something that doesn't need it.

BTW, the petrol LC's are NOT good with deep water crossings......All the ones on YouTube are diesels..........

I routed my hose along the rear trailing arms and zip tied them there, then up to the frame. That helps with vertical movement.
For me I live in Vegas so not much water crossings typically, but I do have plans to do so eventually. Just not very deep and not very often. But then again,wouldnt hurt to have it prepared that way then go back again to adjust it maybe?

Ok i will take a look pretty shortly here and see what I can reach and what ill be able to handle since currently i have no idea how much work i can get into with my injury. I can def do majority of this though! And like you said i def dont plan on over complicating it. Ill see what i can do. Thank you again and again sir!
 
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Gear lube leaking into the knuckles will not be solved by any sort of breather kit. If the bearings are good and the seals are good... then the axle shaft is probably grooved and needs to be sleeved.
It *is* possible for clogged breather vents to increase pressure in some situations and push very small amounts of oil past seals. I have never seen it do so in any amounts that can be detected in the front knuckles.

The breather kits are 100% fluff for guys who just need to buy something.

If you operate in dry conditions and are not worried about water intrusion into the axles via he breathers, just make sure they are not clogged every couple/few years.

If you do not spend a lot of time with water over the hood, then just unbolt the "filter" that the front axle breather terminates in, get a longer hose and move it higher. If you do spend a lot of time in deeper water, forgo the OEM end point of the breather line and run a longer one to a hole drilled into your snorkel.

For the rear axle, install a longer line, run it forward and outboard to the drain plug in the floor under the carpet near the back door. From there run it up inside the C pillar/rear quarter panel interior trim and into the body cavity. all the way up to the roof if you feel the need.

If you get water in through these extended/relocated vents... you have bigger problems to deal with.


Mark...
 
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Gear lube leaking into the knuckles will not be solved by any sort of breather kit. If the bearings are good and the seals are good... then the axle shaft is probably grooved and needs to be sleeved.
It *is* possible for clogged breather vents to increase pressure in some situations and push very small amounts of oil past seals. I have never seen it do so in any amounts that can be detected in the front knuckles.

The breather kits are 100% fluff for guys who just need to buy something.

If you operate in dry conditions and are not worried about water intrusion into the axles via he breathers, just make sure they are not clogged every couple/few years.

If you do not spend a lot of time with water over the hood, then just unbolt the "filter" that the front axle breather terminates in, get a longer hose and move it higher. If you do spend a lot of time in deeper water, forgo the OEM end point of the breather line and run a longer one to a hole drilled into your snorkel.

For the rear axle, install a longer line, run it forward and outboard to the drain plug in the floor under the carpet near the back door. From there run it up inside the C pillar/rear quarter panel interior trim and into the body cavity. all the way up to the roof if you feel the need.

If you get water in through these extended/relocated vents... you have bigger problems to deal with.


Mark...
Im going to check it its clogged first.
Just last week i had my axles serviced. They didnt notice anything outside of replacing both seals.
All this is mainly for me to check if my breather is clogged and while im doing that may as well extend it too since im pretty sure ill be needing it at some point this year. And yes it was inly a small amount of grease seeping, not much but it does get hot here and i feel the pressure in the axle does build up. I will find out more and thank you for the advice too!
 

clx16

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So i think we can make this even more complicated by replacing the breather with a schrader valve there, replace with some gas that isn't flammable and will not expand/contract much within the normal temp swings of the axle. Then setup like a 3 month rotation to get the gas changed or your headgasket will blow.
 
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Well I don't do that much deep water either but I picked up the ARB knockoff from amazon:
Amazon productActually I picked up 2 to get enough fittings to run all vents high up on the firewall. The only thing these things do is keep water from leaking into the axles/cases they are connected to. It won't "fix" any problem you have other than potentially preventing a milkshake if you go through a deep puddle.
 

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