Got a good reliable link to buy a centrifuge kit?Combo of centrifuge and filter is meant to be best..bit of up front money for the two units though...
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Got a good reliable link to buy a centrifuge kit?Combo of centrifuge and filter is meant to be best..bit of up front money for the two units though...
I have contemplated this one..https://www.scintex.com.au/products/oil-centrifugeGot a good reliable link to buy a centrifuge kit?
Thanks for the reply but this post was intended for using a centrifuge to clean used oil to be used as fuel.I have contemplated this one..https://www.scintex.com.au/products/oil-centrifuge
The early 2h had a centrifuge from factory, unfortunately they stopped including them on the late 2h. I don't think many manufacturers had them ome, certainly wouldn't now. Some trucks do have them from factory. They do make a lot of sense.
They need to spin around at 70psi to be optimal.
Side note on the oil bypass is the germans wanted to get to sth. america without downtime changing oil in submarines after wwii.
I can change oil whilst the engine is running on my bypass, would like to add a centrifuge but finances is always something. Use to take out half a liter and replace with fresh every week but now just still do the every 5000km.
But I can drive 1000km on hwy run, with fresh oil and my oil is still quite clean. I did an oil bypass rave if you do a search. Very happy with it. I have just over 300k kms on the engine and recently got 9.3l per 100km which I consider having clean oil ,amongst good maintenance as a contributing factor.
Carbon builds when revving below 2000rpm on the 2h, so idling sucks for any combustion engine for that matter. Centrifuge would not be effective at idle either.
Redline suggests cleaning an engine by giving it 3x oil changes in succession ,they do sell oil!,
but a gentle way to do it.
I looked into recycling oil, but the expense to set up does not outweigh the purchase of fresh oil unless considerable quantities is recycled. Oil also looses it's lubricating qualities and structural integrity as it is reused progressively.
But set up on a running engine, you would be able to run on cleaner oil which = longer lasting engine.
Hmmmm.clean oil all the time.
g,day , how did the 2h end up doing on the wmo lomgterm ?Ran a turbocharged 3L in a truck (18psi) up to 80% WMO For around 60k km's. Any higher % and lift pump had trouble keeping up. Just finished reco of 2h n/a in 60 series , done 500km so far, first tank of 50/50 at moment hydraulic oil. Can't tell difference in performance or aroma as per 3L
Turbo goes on in next couple weeks
12 years laterHi guys. 1st time poster from down under (Australia). As I've read it seams my difficulties sourcing WVO is pretty normal. A local pig farmer has stitched up our supply..
But WMO is like weeds.. Machanics can't give it away quick enough..
So I'm going to try it. I run a NA TD42 Nissan GQ patrol and these motors are bullet proof..
So what I'm thinking.
First filter. The classic shopping bag. Has been said to be roughly 75-80micron.
2nd filter with a heap of rear earth magnets at 20 micron.
3rd filter again with more rear earth magnets at 5 or 1 micron. Haven't bought yetbut will probably go 1 micron.
Going to thin the WMO with petrol. Will bend it down with 10% petrol.
To start i'll bend that mix with a 50/50 WVO and diesel and see how I go. Ideally I want to eventually run a 100% WMO blend, but will take my time getting there and report on changes on engine, smoke, power etc..
So, wish me luck..
Cheers
It works Fine!
After searching the web and reading various forums I decided to filter down some old sump oil I had sitting around. I started with a pure gravity feed through a 1 micron mesh bag - and mixed it with ordinary diesel at ratios up to 70% oil to diesel.
All ratios below 30% show no difference at all. At 50% oil and diesel, the "nacka nacka" noise of the tappets shut up and the engine had marginally better power available in the low rev range (800 to 1100 rpm). At 70% oil in the diesel, I started to blow a little smoke when under power (Such as 3rd gear and up a steep hill). As I had never blown any smoke at all prior - I backed off the mix to 50:50.
I've run about 500 liters through the vehicle so far - and it seems to love it.
So - can we do it? YES
Does it harm our engines? Only if not filtered properly.
The existing oil filters on the vehicles are a bypass type that clean around 80% of everything going past to around 25 micron level. According to the Automobile Standards Association, some 70% of all engine wear is caused by particulate down to 4 micron in size.
Check the links on the forum at:
Freel2.com - View topic - 2-stroke oil and diesel
also:
Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
to start tracking the info down for yourself. There certainly is a lot of info if you are willing to do a little research.
Mercedes Benz themselves took a fleet of demonstrator vehicles to China and added 2 stroke motor oil to the fuel at a 200:1 ratio to overcome the damage being done by low sulphur diesel.
As my vehicle has over 530 000 kilometers on the clock - and I love my truck - I want to look after it. This is a good choice in countries where the laws around using diesel alternatives are not structured to win tax dollars. [It is my understanding that folks in USA are risking a form of tax evasion by using the much cheaper marine grade diesel - which is what this is. Home hrade 'heating oil' is oil and diesel -- which also works just fine. It was used here after WWII as an alternative fuel and cost WAY less than commercial diesel.]
I have a donor vehicle that I'll be taking the fuel tank from and installing in my DD as an oil fuel tank. I'll run a centrifugal oil filter to recirculate the oil (direct from my local mechanic) to the tank. I'll use the spare water / sediment filter and fuel lines before an electronic gate valve tapped into the existing lines before my injection pump. Switch over is best done after a few minutes when the engine is warm. I have noticed that the vehicle is very slightly more difficult to start on ratios above 50%. It never gets below freezing here anyway - so pre heat will not be an issue for me.
Motoring at half the pump price! LOVE IT
So 14 years down the line, are you still running wmo and if so in what motors
![]()