AltFuel Anyone making "black diesel" (WMO/ATF/hudraulic oil) out there ?? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Combo of centrifuge and filter is meant to be best..bit of up front money for the two units though...
Got a good reliable link to buy a centrifuge kit?
 
Got a good reliable link to buy a centrifuge kit?
I have contemplated this one..https://www.scintex.com.au/products/oil-centrifuge

The early 2h had a centrifuge from factory, unfortunately they stopped including them on the late 2h. I don't think many manufacturers had them ome, certainly wouldn't now. Some trucks do have them from factory. They do make a lot of sense.

They need to spin around at 70psi to be optimal.

Side note on the oil bypass is the germans wanted to get to sth. america without downtime changing oil in submarines after wwii.
I can change oil whilst the engine is running on my bypass, would like to add a centrifuge but finances is always something. Use to take out half a liter and replace with fresh every week but now just still do the every 5000km.

But I can drive 1000km on hwy run, with fresh oil and my oil is still quite clean. I did an oil bypass rave if you do a search. Very happy with it. I have just over 300k kms on the engine and recently got 9.3l per 100km which I consider having clean oil ,amongst good maintenance as a contributing factor.

Carbon builds when revving below 2000rpm on the 2h, so idling sucks for any combustion engine for that matter. Centrifuge would not be effective at idle either.

Redline suggests cleaning an engine by giving it 3x oil changes in succession ,they do sell oil!,
but a gentle way to do it.

I looked into recycling oil, but the expense to set up does not outweigh the purchase of fresh oil unless considerable quantities is recycled. Oil also looses it's lubricating qualities and structural integrity as it is reused progressively.

But set up on a running engine, you would be able to run on cleaner oil which = longer lasting engine.

Hmmmm.clean oil all the time.
 
I have contemplated this one..https://www.scintex.com.au/products/oil-centrifuge

The early 2h had a centrifuge from factory, unfortunately they stopped including them on the late 2h. I don't think many manufacturers had them ome, certainly wouldn't now. Some trucks do have them from factory. They do make a lot of sense.

They need to spin around at 70psi to be optimal.

Side note on the oil bypass is the germans wanted to get to sth. america without downtime changing oil in submarines after wwii.
I can change oil whilst the engine is running on my bypass, would like to add a centrifuge but finances is always something. Use to take out half a liter and replace with fresh every week but now just still do the every 5000km.

But I can drive 1000km on hwy run, with fresh oil and my oil is still quite clean. I did an oil bypass rave if you do a search. Very happy with it. I have just over 300k kms on the engine and recently got 9.3l per 100km which I consider having clean oil ,amongst good maintenance as a contributing factor.

Carbon builds when revving below 2000rpm on the 2h, so idling sucks for any combustion engine for that matter. Centrifuge would not be effective at idle either.

Redline suggests cleaning an engine by giving it 3x oil changes in succession ,they do sell oil!,
but a gentle way to do it.

I looked into recycling oil, but the expense to set up does not outweigh the purchase of fresh oil unless considerable quantities is recycled. Oil also looses it's lubricating qualities and structural integrity as it is reused progressively.

But set up on a running engine, you would be able to run on cleaner oil which = longer lasting engine.

Hmmmm.clean oil all the time.
Thanks for the reply but this post was intended for using a centrifuge to clean used oil to be used as fuel.

Thanks but I already have a bypass oil system for my engine. (It’s like getting an oil change every 10min)

But that’s some good history about the factory 2H centrifuge.
 
sorry, I have met a fellow who used it as fuel mixed with kero, he was happy but never entered civilization and not concerned what it smelt like or what exhaust looked like. Just cheap and nasty.

I cannot imagine how it could not smell horrible and do carnage to injector nozzles.

I have used veg oil and used engine oil to fire ceramic kilns using a drip with air pressure into a heated chamber, the engine oil smelt sickly, really evil horrible, feel it in the stomach. Both have impressive flames.
Ever since smelling the wmo I cannot imagine using it to burn. My experience.
Maybe if it was super cleaned, but even then, I have used clean engine oil as bar oil in chainsaws when no choice, that smelt horrible too.

I am yet to read, see or hear off someone burning black oil celebrating the exhaust fumes. I guess ok if not driving where there are people, just don't inhale.

I think if the effort was made for alt fuel, biodiesel is the go. Smells good. After all, the first diesel engine ran off peanut oil.

They certainly use wmo for tobacco drying kilns, few more chemicals inhaled no difference..
It really works well to deter insects from timber, no animal goes near it as it smells really crap.

Simple test would get some diesel, veg oil, wmo and burn it with flame. Take note on combustion volatility, carbon and aroma. All of them have lots of carbon.

My conclusion of all the wmo oil I produce is to just give it to the folks who recycle it in bulk, sometimes I use it as oil baths for used car parts to prevent rust.

Like tyres, wmo is part of a collective, unavoidable pollution if we are going to use our combustion vehicles. EV's shall create another pollution.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom