Anyone have experience with rust repair? (1 Viewer)

[kisoarer]

So I picked up my 98 LX a few months back for fairly cheap. I needed a winter vehicle to get through snow. When I got it, I was unaware of how awesome they could be. After lurking here for a while I joined up. I have been contemplating modifying it for some family camping/exploring, but the rust has me concerned. I did put some new tires on it as the old ones were very aged and cracked. I also promptly removed the running boards.

I had it on a lift to check it over and put some PB Blaster on the ACH bleeders and grease the driveshafts. I have years of service records for it and it was very well maintained. Timing belt, fluids, brakes, battery and other typical baseline items had been completed by the previous owner fairly recently. I wanted to post up some pictures here to see what the knowledgeable members here thought.

In your expert opinions, should I be concerned? I don't mind doing to grinding and hitting it with a rust converter if need be, but I am a little concerned about the suspension areas. I imagine some of the components would be handled if I upgraded the suspension. The other option is to use this LX for a while and look for a cleaner one to upgrade to down the road. I appreciate any and all input. Thanks!

 

[vman07]

Looks fine to me!

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

I would be concerned, have it checked out.

 

[kisoarer]

I would be concerned, have it checked out.

That's another issue. I don't know who I should take it to. I did do a little searching on google, but the only places that offer rust services are a couple of hours away. I would imagine I would need to pay for an estimate before hand then go from there. My thought was hoping someone here would have some advice for a DIY type repair. Those who have used the POR15 product, what have the results been like?

The body is rust free and the frame doesn't look too bad. I guess I am hoping it is repairable.

 

[Quick]

The POR15 product prevents the rust not repair it. Before you try to fix the rust, make sure you have it looked at professionally (Toyota) for safety reasons. Saving few bucks could end up costing you lot more both financially as well as personally. You'd soon find out there's no such thing as a cheap cruiser though

 

[kisoarer]

The POR15 product prevents the rust not repair it. Before you try to fix the rust, make sure you have it looked at professionally (Toyota) for safety reasons. Saving few bucks could end up costing you lot more both financially as well as personally. You'd soon find out there's no such thing as a cheap cruiser though

Thanks for the input. From what I have seen here, the more you fall in love with them, the more expensive they get. Haha. I will have to find a reputable place to check it over.

 

[hickuptruck]

Looks fine to me honestly. Seen way worse.

 

[Usterzai]

Your LX has almost similar rust like mine, and I also picked up mine couple of months ago. Mine is a 99 and there was no body rust except the tail gate and the rear DS quarter panel has a huge patch that is rotted but hidden under the bumper. If you compare it to some of the other LX/LC here then we have way too much rust but I have seen newer ones in PA with so much rust.
I searched on this forum and on google but the amount of time I will have to invest makes me think that I should just spray fluids films on it and when I am in better shape I will buy a rust free one.
I am going to follow this thread and hopefully I will also get an answer

 

[thibaut]

Have the frame and suspension bits sand blasted (or diy version with wire brush) and get a good anti rust product (por 15 or rust bullet). The rust is far fron having eaten the frame and suspension bits. You can recover it.
In the UK there are some defenders with tons of rust. They still go along as the metal is pretty thick.

 

[mrahc]

The POR15 product prevents the rust not repair it. Before you try to fix the rust, make sure you have it looked at professionally (Toyota) for safety reasons. Saving few bucks could end up costing you lot more both financially as well as personally. You'd soon find out there's no such thing as a cheap cruiser though

POR-15 is a rust converter. It doesn't necessarily prevent it nor does it totally "repair" it if you were to just coat it on. I also would not bring your vehicle to a dealership to have them evaluate rust damage. They're in one business, and that's making money. They'll flat out tell you you'll need to replace the entire frame and get you to believe there's no alternative (spoiler, there is).

OP this doesn't look bad at all. Find a local, reputable, frame repair shop and start there. They'll generally evaluate it for free (or next to nothing) and get you a quote. Just don't keep putting it off. If the frame itself needs to be repaired (i.e you need to cut out areas and have new metal welded in) and you have no experience doing so, have a shop do it right the first time. Then you can (yourself or have them do it) get it all ground down/sandblasted and coated with POR-15 (with this I believe you need to leave some of the surface rust on, so the POR has something to adhere/bond to) or similar. I'm sure the shop you take it to will let you know, but if body mounts need replacing, or even major suspension parts/bushings, do it before you coat.

Best of luck, don't let this forum scare you away from treating a rusted truck. Save 'em.

 

[Quick]

When it comes to structural stability, there's no one better than a dealership since they know their asses would be at stake should something does go wrong. You don't have to get it fixed there at least get a feedback from them and then make your own calculated guess.

 

[flintknapper]

I am admittedly a 'rust snob', don't like it and would not purchase a vehicle with any appreciable amount.

BUT......I live in a part of the country where the word 'rust' is rarely uttered because we just don't have it.

That said....I have seen many examples of Land Cruisers (all years and models) from the rust belt posted on MUD and yours does not seem to be of any special concern. From what you have posted...I don't see any safety issues at all.

It would not hurt to have a professional look at it and give you their opinion. Look at the critical areas (welds, gussets, cross-members) steering components. Pay close attention to areas subjected to stress.

But at first blush...yours looks better than a lot I have seen here. Definitely a candidate for rust removal and treatment. I say...keep it, fix it.

 

[kisoarer]

Thanks for all of the input here. I have been a technician at the dealer level for 15 years, only the brand I work for does not really have rust issues outside of our older 80s cars. We do have a Lexus dealer across the street and I occasionally see those techs out at lunch. I'm only confident in one of them that I would trust to give an opinion on it.

I may be able to get a sandblaster from a coworker. If I can, I will probably just go to town on it and see how it turns out. I have read a lot of good things about the por 15 product so that is the direction I am leaning. Finding the time to work on my own vehicles is tough so this may take some time. I am happy to hear that it's not worth looking for another one. I picked it up after it was traded in cheap enough that I don't mind investing a little in it.

I will do my best to keep the thread updated with my progress as I have gained so much from others documenting their builds and mods.

Here is a current pic or 2 because everyone likes pics right? Shes got some minor scratches but I like it since I don't have to worry about it getting dinged up.

 

[Leandro]

To be honest, doesn't look that bad.
Mine was kind of similar, wire brush it and apply some rust converter first (I used corroseal) and then something like fluid film or krown. That should buy you several years.
Spoiler alert, at the point you're at, every bolt, nut, screw or plastic retainer will be a PITA to remove, most of them will snap.

 

[Hugh Calgary]

Don't fear the rust. Looks ok to me. Check out the Eadtwood products.
https://www.eastwood.com
I used the Eastwood stuff on my 1998 LC.
Before starting I used my pressure washer with a flexible hose and a pipe cleaning attachment to blast the inside of the frame and also clean all the mud off the under carriage.
Spent some quality time with a grinder wire brushing any rust before using the Eastwood rust converter followed by their top coat.
They have a product that has a spray nozzle on the end of a flexible tube. Used this on the inside of the frame.
I sprayed inside the doors, tail gate, hood and fenders with Fluid Film using the Eastwood flexible spray nozzle.
Took about 40 hours. Underside looks great.
After doing the 1998 I decided to try doing the easy option on the 2006.
I plan to do Krown rust proofing on all the rust that is visible and Fluid Film inside the frame and body panels when my daughter brings it home from university in the spring.
I expect that will take less than 8 hours.
This will be an experiment on which system works the best.

 

[CLEcruiser]

Don't waste your time taking that to a dealership service dept., They will hand you an estimate for $10k listing everything you "need" replaced. Clean it and drive, the more steel that rusts away the better your mpg will be.

 

[TheDan]

Id spend a weekend with a very stiff wire brush underneath knocking the scale off. Thatll give you a better idea of how far it reaches and whether its eating from the inside AND the outside or if its still servicable. Wear throw away cloths and a dust mask because inhaling rust-dust is nasty and youll be below it getting it everywhere. Use a old shower plastic curtain as this rust dust will stain your garage/driveway badly once it gets wet. Have plentiful amounts of your choice of coating/paint to protect the areas you de-scale. After the paint cures, drench that sucker in fluid film. Inside/outside the frame rails, tailgate, a pillars, crossmembers, suspension arms and all.
(The only experience with rust repair i have is stripping my 1960 f100 down to bare metal to assess its body and then recoating it in exoxy primer multiple times-learning along the way- to set it up for a new diy paint job this spring when the temps are able to cure the paint)

 

[TheDan]

 

[slowpok3]

I'm in MD too. I feel your pain. I bought an 02 LX in NoVA in 2013. Body and interior looked great, and I was too stupid to know enough to inspect the undercarriage.

Underneath looks similar to yours. Rust caused AHC and AC failures over the past 2 years, so I know I need to get busy doing something about it.

My plan is to get some nice ramps so I can quickly knock out an hour at a time with wire brush, cup brush on a grinder, and start hitting it with one or more of the rust converter products.

There is a Krown shop in York PA that I'd like to visit and see how there service works out, at least to help stop anything from getting worse.

 

[kisoarer]

I'm in MD too. I feel your pain. I bought an 02 LX in NoVA in 2013. Body and interior looked great, and I was too stupid to know enough to inspect the undercarriage.

Underneath looks similar to yours. Rust caused AHC and AC failures over the past 2 years, so I know I need to get busy doing something about it.

My plan is to get some nice ramps so I can quickly knock out an hour at a time with wire brush, cup brush on a grinder, and start hitting it with one or more of the rust converter products.

There is a Krown shop in York PA that I'd like to visit and see how there service works out, at least to help stop anything from getting worse.

I work in Annapolis. We may have to join forces for this project. The down side is I don't drive it to work too often.

I think I will set a day aside to get after it with a brush and grinder and go from there. Something will be better than nothing.