Any tips for getting valve shims out? (1 Viewer)

[rc51kid]

I am (trying) adjusting valves on a 1FZ. Using the factory valve shim tool I still cant get the little bastards out. I can depress the valve spring and insert the tool to keep it depressed. With a little work I can pop the shim up. A few times I can even get it to move around. But one side is blocked with the can journal and then the other side is blocked by the little tool holding the spring down.

The cam journal has a shape to it that makes it so the shim cant come straight out torwards the center of the head. It needs to come out slightly angled away from the journal. This is where it binds with the tool.

I think I should be a to use the tool next to the journal. But edge of the spring bucket is covered by the journal so cant get the tool on that side.

I know this wont make sense if you have never done this. So I am hoping somebody has used this tool and can give me some tips.

I am about to just open a beer and step away for a while.

 

[Desertmedic80]

If I didn't do that correctly it is Otram's video titled Checking valve clearance on a 1FZ-FE About the 7 min mark he takes a shim out. Hope that help and enjoy your beer.

 

[rc51kid]

If I didn't do that correctly it is Otram's video titled Checking valve clearance on a 1FZ-FE About the 7 min mark he takes a shim out. Hope that help and enjoy your beer.

Thanks, that's what I am trying to do. I will try again tomorrow with a better magnet. I dont have a magnet right now. I can get it popped up and then I am trying to grab the edge with hemostats. I can get it a few times but maybe I am twisting a little and it is binding. Maybe a magnet will work better.

 

[manofthewoods]

Thanks, that's what I am trying to do. I will try again tomorrow with a better magnet. I dont have a magnet right now. I can get it popped up and then I am trying to grab the edge with hemostats. I can get it a few times but maybe I am twisting a little and it is binding. Maybe a magnet will work better.

don't shoot the messenger, but, when I did mine, I just lifted the cams out. I have a super strong magnet and it was amazing how "sticky" they were even with only a drop of oil. Full disclosure: my engine was out on a stand, and I needed to move/ replace almost every shim (because of the work done on the head & valves).

will for sure help; unless you have a LX450 then it's chardonnay

 

[Pin_Head]

I used a long handle cheap screwdriver with the tip bent 45 degrees to depress the spring bucket and then I put a blast of compressed air in the groove of the bucket to blow the shim out. Sounds like you need to depress it more.

 

[NLXTACY]

Compressed air is your friend.

 

[rc51kid]

Does the Toyota tool really work or should I just give up on it and pull the cams. This thing is making me a little crazy.

I have been able to pop the shim up a few times but cant get it out. Twice I had it slid out a .25 inch and it just binds on the little tool that is holding down the spring.

 

[mudgudgeon]

post a pic of the tool?

haven't done them on fzfe yet, but have in a hdt.

i had no issues using a magnet. i have a hook and pick set that has a strong little magnet on the end of the handle

a small flat screwdriver or hook can help pop then loose from the oil suction

 

[mdawg]

I just did this back in November, using the two-piece tool (the plier thingy for compressing the valve spring and the brace for making it stay in place). It took me quite a bit of time to figure out exactly:

1. Which end of the brace to use.
2. Where on the lip of the lifter to apply the brace.
3. What angle to apply the brace.

I was eventually able to get it to work, but it was still a very tight fit removing those shims... I mean fractions of a millimeter of clearance here. If any of your #6 shims need replacing you will need to remove the camshafts, which would make removing the other shims much easier.

 

[rc51kid]

I just did this back in November, using the two-piece tool (the plier thingy for compressing the valve spring and the brace for making it stay in place). It took me quite a bit of time to figure out exactly:

1. Which end of the brace to use.
2. Where on the lip of the lifter to apply the brace.
3. What angle to apply the brace.

I was eventually able to get it to work, but it was still a very tight fit removing those shims... I mean fractions of a millimeter of clearance here. If any of your #6 shims need replacing you will need to remove the camshafts, which would make removing the other shims much easier.

Glad to know it will work. Luckily I am working on cylinder 3 exhaust valve. I am using the longer end of the tool marked with a 9. I assume it is 9mm.

I have the depressing tool figured out. The other tool that holds it down is getting in the way. Are you inserting it under the cam from the center of the head or from the "side" of the head?

 

[mdawg]

I inserted the tool from the side of the head. Here is a description of what I did, from the perspective of sitting on the passenger wheel well hump where the air filter housing rests:

• Imagine that the top of the lifter bucket is a clock face, with the 6 o'clock position closest to you.
• With the valve depressed, I inserted the tool at around the 4 o'clock position, or maybe in between 4 and 5, if working on the valve to the right. Between 7 and 8 if working on the valve to the left.
• Having the tip of the tool sit flush on the rim of the liter did not work for me, so inserting the tool at an angle was very important. Maybe try angling the tool at about 45 degrees-ish?

Your experience echoes mine... that the brace tool was getting in the way of removing the shim. Hopefully, the steps above will get it out of the way enough to remove the shim. Again, it is a tight fit.

 

[chbrow10]

I just want to add that the Schley Tool that everyone is likely trying to use isn't made for 1FZ-FE engines. It says so on the manufacture's page.

88250 TOYOTA /LEXUS VALVE ADJUSTING TOOLS

This set of pliers and spacer wedge was designed for easy valve adjustment. Plier tip pushes between the spacer shim and the camshaft as the pliers are squeezed close, while the spacer wedge maintains a gap between the shim and the camshaft as the pliers are removed. The spacer shim can be...

sptool.com

I struggled with the tool for hours until I was so frustrated that I broke out the welder and made the little foot thingy longer. Then I had the damn shims out and replaced in 5 minutes.

Just hope this helps the next guy struggling.