Happy it all worked out for you.
Unfortunate few shop do any job on the 100 series by the book. Number 1 I find done wrong is wheel bearings.
Work done by shops like: INDY shop such as BrakePlus, Midas, Firestone, tire shop, windshield installer, etc. Where techs have no business touching a 100 series unless supervised every minute. A Dealership where primary concern is beating book time. Or a so called ToyLex specialty shop that will not allow clients to speak with mechanic must less in the shop. Is why & what I spend so much time bring back to factory spec.
FWIW:
Non Aisin (OEM) never good idea.
@cruiseroutfit is good source for OEM parts, without the Toyota logo or high cost.
Longer bolt is risky, you can bottom out. OEM is always best practice.
Steel bolts in aluminium is where I like a touch of Anti-sizes.
Really tightening down, not a great idea. When lubing threads, which blue LT does. We are required to reduce torque by ~20% where a thread "lube" not called for by the book. Torque specs take into account heat expansion. The fan bracket has four different torque specs; 12, 15, 24 & 36ft-lbf IIRC. FSM is a must when working on the 100 series. It is also best practice to snug in all bolts of fan bracket first. Then torque in bolts and nuts on face second. Torquing in the two side bolt coming through compressor last.
He may have also forgot or just not:
Torque in any bolts or nuts.
Likely forgot to pre-coat with FIPG (103 oil) the tensioner pulley bolt.
Routed the crank sensor and oil pressure switch wire harness improperly.
Not used the correct FIPG 1282B on water inlet.
Wrongly used FIPG on large O-ring.
Forgot the covers circled in red.
A little grease added here is helpful for future removal. The fan clutch will be next to go. They don't tend to last much longer then 5K to 10K after fan clutch wobble