Anti inversion shackles?

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Joined
Aug 16, 2004
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Location
Sitka,AK
I'm wondering if I need them. I'm getting 3" overs so that 33's won't rub. The truck will see some offroad treking but no rockcrawling.
 
depends

I think it pretty much depends on shackle angle as it relates to the eye of the spring. (length of spring and where it is in relation to the shackle eye on the frame) far forwards and very vertical shackle angles benefit from AI shackles.

Someone correct me if I am wrong or oversimplifying
 
I think it pretty much depends on shackle angle as it relates to the eye of the spring. (length of spring and where it is in relation to the shackle eye on the frame) far forwards and very vertical shackle angles benefit from AI shackles.

Someone correct me if I am wrong or oversimplifying


sounds right. I heard that you would be ok on road but off road you might need it for a large one like that. I'm in the process of making some 3" over and going to slap some 33" on it. I see a problem in my front all ready as the shocks don't drop enough to put on the larger shackles.
 
I know I'll have to get longer shocks... Anybody have actual experiance with mild shackle lifts?
 
Ihave...

I know I'll have to get longer shocks... Anybody have actual experiance with mild shackle lifts?

I have 2.5" extended past stock shackles (non-AI) but I also have 5" ALCANS and a great shackle angle due to the custom springs. I'd put the 3" OME's on and stock or 1" extended AI shackles with greasable pins and call er good! As for shocks, just find a ditch, remove the shocks and stuff a tire front and back and measure completely compressed and completely extended (shock mount to shock mount) that'll give you the data on what shock to buy.
 
So you're saying that if I keep my stock springs I should get the anti's. I'm planning on getting shackles that are 3" over.
 
OH

So you're saying that if I keep my stock springs I should get the anti's. I'm planning on getting shackles that are 3" over.

Oh!!!! I thought you meant 3 over SPRINGS....duh. I wouldn't put 3" overstock shackles on only, but 2.5's AI might be okay depends on how spent the stock springs are. But you may need to shim the spring perches to correct the pinion angle.
 
Ok cool. I was thinking that I needed the shims anyway. The 2.5" over would give me about 1.25", so I'd still have enough to get the 33" tires in there. Would you recomend Anti inversion shackles? The only reason I'm asking is because they are double the $.
 
well

Ok cool. I was thinking that I needed the shims anyway. The 2.5" over would give me about 1.25", so I'd still have enough to get the 33" tires in there. Would you recomend Anti inversion shackles? The only reason I'm asking is because they are double the $.

Well, like I originally said, it depends on what the shackle angle would end up being with the new shackles on. That being said, don't skimp on shackles, they are what keep you going straight down the road. Get either the SOR Heavy Duty Anti-Inversions or if not AI's get the HFS Barbell shackles. In both cases get new bushings preferrably the Aussie Poly's
 
there are a number of people who have had 33s on stock suspensions with no issues, particularly with the driving conditions you indicate.
 
yup, 12.5, saggy springs, they rubbed on the innder fenderwell in the rear, but didnt hamper performance really, specially not for trekking purposes, plus the low cog kept it stable

Yes, but 33x10.5s or 33x12.5's?

there are a number of people who have had 33s on stock suspensions with no issues, particularly with the driving conditions you indicate.
 
I know everyone has different experiences and I don't want to open a can of worms but I can not recommend MAF, never got anything but "tude" from those guys.


Definitely another topic, but the 4+ shackles at MAF are THE BEST. Not the cheapest, but the best you can buy. I ran them for years on my 76 FJ40--the GSK model. They are even nicer than the ARB anti-inversion shackles. The machine work and construction are first rate.

Even if you don't like MAF, it's worth dealing with them if you are considering these shackles, though I personally think MAF is OK to deal with.
 
Great info guys! I was looking at the MAF shackles, I guess thats what I'll go with.
 
ya, ive never had an issue with maf personally, and i have them shackles now, so :beer:
 
Here's the voice of experience talking, take it for what it's worth. Shackle angle is important for two reasons; first, if you want ride quality, the top of the shackle needs to be angled towards the fixed end of the spring, not vertical and deffinitley not past vertical, meaning the fixed end angles away from the fixed end of the spring. Second, proper angle and a longer shackle will greatly increase your axle drop. Articulation is a good thing. When the shackle angle and length are correct, you will not need an anti-inversion shackle. Here is what has worked for me. Move the shackle mount in towards the fixed end of the spring 1.5" to 2" and run a 5.5" to 6" shackle with some type of center piece to keep both sides paralel. Use good bushings. OME are great, Energy Suspension are also good and cost less. Select some type system to keep the bolts fixed to the shackle so that they move with the shackle. Otherwise, the shackle will rotate on the bolts and will wear out prematurely. I welded small tabs to the shackle on one side that fit tightly against the bolt head so that the bolts are unable to rotate. Then I use a nylock nut on the other end. Spend the dollars for grade 8 bolts. These you can pound out with a hammer and still reuse them. Lastly, in the end you will be dollars ahead to just go buy a welder and learn to use it. I had never welded before when I rented an Miller 120V welder for a project on the Cruiser that was annoying me (a front shackle inversion problem!) It wasn't to hard to pick it up. Later I bought a Hobart 120V welder and now I make all my own stuff including shackles. A cheap benchtop drill press is also handy as well as an angle grinder. Maybe this is more than you wanted to know right now, but it's the road I ended up travelling and you probably will too in time.
 
ah

Here's the voice of experience talking, take it for what it's worth. Shackle angle is important for two reasons; first, if you want ride quality, the top of the shackle needs to be angled towards the fixed end of the spring, not vertical and deffinitley not past vertical, meaning the fixed end angles away from the fixed end of the spring. Second, proper angle and a longer shackle will greatly increase your axle drop. Articulation is a good thing. When the shackle angle and length are correct, you will not need an anti-inversion shackle. Here is what has worked for me. Move the shackle mount in towards the fixed end of the spring 1.5" to 2" and run a 5.5" to 6" shackle with some type of center piece to keep both sides paralel. Use good bushings. OME are great, Energy Suspension are also good and cost less. Select some type system to keep the bolts fixed to the shackle so that they move with the shackle. Otherwise, the shackle will rotate on the bolts and will wear out prematurely. I welded small tabs to the shackle on one side that fit tightly against the bolt head so that the bolts are unable to rotate. Then I use a nylock nut on the other end. Spend the dollars for grade 8 bolts. These you can pound out with a hammer and still reuse them. Lastly, in the end you will be dollars ahead to just go buy a welder and learn to use it. I had never welded before when I rented an Miller 120V welder for a project on the Cruiser that was annoying me (a front shackle inversion problem!) It wasn't to hard to pick it up. Later I bought a Hobart 120V welder and now I make all my own stuff including shackles. A cheap benchtop drill press is also handy as well as an angle grinder. Maybe this is more than you wanted to know right now, but it's the road I ended up travelling and you probably will too in time.

Ahh, Articulation Thank You (Double entendre intended)
 
If you ever had to unreverse a shakle in the middle of the track at night it would be a lay down.
If you are going the extended shakle lift route then its almost mandatory as far as I am concerned.

I got mine from Big Balls off Road and been very happy with them.
 

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