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I think it pretty much depends on shackle angle as it relates to the eye of the spring. (length of spring and where it is in relation to the shackle eye on the frame) far forwards and very vertical shackle angles benefit from AI shackles.
Someone correct me if I am wrong or oversimplifying
I know I'll have to get longer shocks... Anybody have actual experiance with mild shackle lifts?
So you're saying that if I keep my stock springs I should get the anti's. I'm planning on getting shackles that are 3" over.
Ok cool. I was thinking that I needed the shims anyway. The 2.5" over would give me about 1.25", so I'd still have enough to get the 33" tires in there. Would you recomend Anti inversion shackles? The only reason I'm asking is because they are double the $.
there are a number of people who have had 33s on stock suspensions with no issues, particularly with the driving conditions you indicate.
more choices with 4plus shackles at man-a-fre
Yes, but 33x10.5s or 33x12.5's?
there are a number of people who have had 33s on stock suspensions with no issues, particularly with the driving conditions you indicate.
I know everyone has different experiences and I don't want to open a can of worms but I can not recommend MAF, never got anything but "tude" from those guys.
Here's the voice of experience talking, take it for what it's worth. Shackle angle is important for two reasons; first, if you want ride quality, the top of the shackle needs to be angled towards the fixed end of the spring, not vertical and deffinitley not past vertical, meaning the fixed end angles away from the fixed end of the spring. Second, proper angle and a longer shackle will greatly increase your axle drop. Articulation is a good thing. When the shackle angle and length are correct, you will not need an anti-inversion shackle. Here is what has worked for me. Move the shackle mount in towards the fixed end of the spring 1.5" to 2" and run a 5.5" to 6" shackle with some type of center piece to keep both sides paralel. Use good bushings. OME are great, Energy Suspension are also good and cost less. Select some type system to keep the bolts fixed to the shackle so that they move with the shackle. Otherwise, the shackle will rotate on the bolts and will wear out prematurely. I welded small tabs to the shackle on one side that fit tightly against the bolt head so that the bolts are unable to rotate. Then I use a nylock nut on the other end. Spend the dollars for grade 8 bolts. These you can pound out with a hammer and still reuse them. Lastly, in the end you will be dollars ahead to just go buy a welder and learn to use it. I had never welded before when I rented an Miller 120V welder for a project on the Cruiser that was annoying me (a front shackle inversion problem!) It wasn't to hard to pick it up. Later I bought a Hobart 120V welder and now I make all my own stuff including shackles. A cheap benchtop drill press is also handy as well as an angle grinder. Maybe this is more than you wanted to know right now, but it's the road I ended up travelling and you probably will too in time.