Another Timing belt question amongst others

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AZBuman

AZBuman

10 Year
Joined
Apr 8, 2015
Threads
12
Messages
82
Location
In transit for life
Hey guys, I’ve done a lot of research and searching here on mud but I can’t seem to find what I am looking for, so here goes. I am going to tackle the timing belt job myself. I have no experience doing this but I have a co-worker who is pretty mechanically inclined who is willing to help. We are shooting for weekend of Feb 6-7 to do this job. He is leaving the country soon after that for a few months.

Here is my main question: What parts kits are people using to do this job? I’ve read here that most are using AISIN kit and this is what I found on amazon:http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-021-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYWKI/?tag=ihco-20

I am wondering if this is the exact kit? Also is there any other things I may need? Any little items people found handy that maybe wasn’t specifically in any of the many write ups?

Here is my next question: Before that weekend I am going to try and tackle the armor underneath. Now this hundy spent its entire life in PA and has the rust to prove it. I’ve taken off the running boards and broke a couple of bolts. The bolts holding the guard near the oil filter also broke. Does anyone have any suggestions for dealing with the other bolts holding the armor in place? My ideal goal would be to take them off and replace with new bolts. Right now I am still in MD but hopefully this spring headed to either TX or CO. That is when I will go about replacing rusty parts that I can.

And finally last question: My oil pressure indicator drops when I come to an idle, like at a stop light, but when I take off it moves back into normal range. No lights or anything come on, just the gauge moving. Is this normal or a sign of trouble?

Thanks all in advance, I’ve learned a ton on this forum. If I am asking questions already answered please feel free to send me on to them, again thanks to everyone in advance.
 
Also forgot to mention, I am on a military base so I have access to the auto craft shop and all their tools, so I don’t think I will need any special tools outside of what they have. But if there is a specific tool someone used and found it extremely handy, I’d love to know. Thanks
 
You don't say the mileage, I changed the serpentine belt tensioner and idler pulley on mine due to bearings going dry, mine is on 168,000. I had mine rust treated, I used dinitrol, it is a 3 stage process after clean up. First power wash the underside then wire brush loose rust, then you use the rust converter, wait to dry, then apply cavity wax to all box sections, underside and inside doors, sills, tailgate, bonnet, wheel arches and so on, then use the underbody wax to vulnerable areas like wheel arches and the underside, this gives it a hard black durable finish. I bought the motor home kit due to vehicle being so big, this does give a professional finish if you prep it right. Just use Hammerite on axles. Dinitrol is what the UK military use and a lot of there vehicles are 30+ years old..
 
that is the kit I used. It all worked well on my 2000 lc . I also got a new thermostat and gasket, serp belt and fan pulley bracket. You did not say your mileage but I was at 200K and the fan pulley bracket died and I did the water pump/belt because I was 1/2 way there installing the fan bracket. Its 110 more bucks on amazon but its better than having to redo the job in 6 months to replace it :).

bracket http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031GCUEY?tag=ihco-20
 
AZBuman said:
Here is my main question: What parts kits are people using to do this job? I’ve read here that most are using AISIN kit and this is what I found on amazon:http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-021-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B008EEYWKI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1453525017&vehicle=1998-76-1017-20--9-6-8-4714-2360-4-1-2286-89-2-0&sr=1-1&ymm=1998:toyota:land+cruiser

I am wondering if this is the exact kit? Also is there any other things I may need? Any little items people found handy that maybe wasn’t specifically in any of the many write ups?
Click to expand...

That is the kit I used on a 2000 LX470 and it worked well. The first time you do this I think you should expect a full day of work to cover the inevitable amount of fiddling and finding the right parts, etc. Take photos yourself, use plastic baggies to store and label parts, magic marker on some mastic tape will label wires and hoses - there is a lot to disconnect and you could find yourself confused easily on your first go with tis sort of work. Also a post above had a link tot he fan bracket - I didn't replace that or the serpentine pulleys, then three days later one of them started squealing - so I wish I would have just bit the bullet financially and got it all - would have saved me considerable amount to time and frustrations.

Here is my next question: Before that weekend I am going to try and tackle the armor underneath. Now this hundy spent its entire life in PA and has the rust to prove it. I’ve taken off the running boards and broke a couple of bolts. The bolts holding the guard near the oil filter also broke. Does anyone have any suggestions for dealing with the other bolts holding the armor in place? My ideal goal would be to take them off and replace with new bolts. Right now I am still in MD but hopefully this spring headed to either TX or CO. That is when I will go about replacing rusty parts that I can.
Click to expand...

A product known as PB Blaster is your friend - give the bolt a liberal shot from the can maybe twice a day for several days before actually trying to remove it. BTW, the thermostat housing for the water pump timing belt thing is a place to be careful - some threads show the part breaking. It took me about an hour of lubing up the area and just applying back and forth pressure until the corrosion broke free enough for me to remove the part from the engine.

And finally last question: My oil pressure indicator drops when I come to an idle, like at a stop light, but when I take off it moves back into normal range. No lights or anything come on, just the gauge moving. Is this normal or a sign of trouble?
Click to expand...

Oil pumps are normally positive displacement type - which means they pump more the faster they turn. I don't know by how much your pressure is dropping and if that is normal, but some drop in pressure is absolutely normal
 
Everyone, thank you for the replies. So I have 148,347 miles right now. I cannot say if this job has been done on it. There is no sticker in the engine compartment, and when looking up the VIN on Toyota Owners it doesn’t say anything except the maintenance I’ve done, so I am assuming this has not been done. The vehicle is also 1998. Regarding the oil pressure indicator I looked up some more threads on it and it seems to be in the normal range. Thank again for everyone’s help.
 
The oil pressure gauge on the 100 series is know to indicate alarmingly "low" at idle. From what I've read hear over the years the majority of people reporting on oil pressure at idle say theirs reads low too, as does mine, and many have questioned it. In that regard, I would say it's not anything to be concerned about. It's a "Normal" reading and the actual pressure is most likely higher than the gauge indicates.
 
Don't forget to pick up some red coolant from the dealer.
Also, buy a box of different size bolts,nuts they would have them at your auto store. This came very handy when I did my timing belt.
Enjoy it. It is a fun job.

A.J
 
I don't know if I would call it fun. But I dont like to crawl around on a cold garage floor :) to get to those last 2 fan bracket bolts lol.

I will say its is defiantly doable for anyone with a basic set of tools and a local autoparts house that loans out special tools. Just as was posted above go slow mark everything and take 10x the pictures you think you need. Also find the vid on replacing the belt/pump on the tundra truck its very helpful but does have a few things that are different. Also the 2 posts in the faq are invaluable.
 
My oil pressure gauge reads slightly above the first hash mark (1/4 of the range). It's done that as long as I've owned it (~7 years).
 
I second the "replace the fan bracket" I'm having to go back and do that 5k after I did the TB, If you have not done the heater T's do them now... I don't know how clean you engine is but I like to stop by the local car wash with some de greaser and power wash as much as I can before I start... a couple small spring clamps to hold the TB in place on the cam pulleys help alot (but then i'm working alone) with the fan & radiator out... you might want to replace the rack & pinion bushings... double check your radiator now... the top seam tank to fins usually under the foam that fills the gap to the fan shroud is the failure point... oh and I like to put anti-seize on the threads of all bolts as they go back in...

have fun
p
 
Thanks again guys. Yep that is exactly what my oil pressure gauge does. I found a good thread and found it in the owners manual. I can’t remember who uploaded the FSM but big thanks to him/her that has been an invaluable tool!! So this is the shopping list I’ve come up with so far:

Stant 27283 Thermostat Seal
Stant 14128 Thermostat 180 degree F
Gates K060882 Multi V Groove Belt
Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-SLLC2 Long Life Coolant 6 gallons total-for flush
AISIN TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with water pump
AISIN FBT--002 Fan Pulley Bracket

All of this is on Amazon and according to then it fits the 1998 LC. Does anyone see anything else I may be missing? Also I keep seeing people say to replace coolant with red coolant also FSM CO-2 says to use Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (Pink in Color) but when I check my radiator its the normal green color, is this ok?
 
If it has green coolant in it already, IMHO, keep it that way. Green is easier to get out in the middle of nowhere and you can't mix the two.
 
Talking from experience i would most definitely flush the entire cooling system and go with the red coolant from Toyota and distilled water if possible. There are so many type of green coolant out there and it would be hard to tell by color and make sure you get at least a 50/50 mixture. Hope it's not too late to change it.
 
Here are some Toyota part numbers for stuff up there, in case you run into a pulley with a rough bearing or something else not right. These are for an '04.

Timing belt 13568-09070
Serpentine belt 90916-02585
Water pump 16100-09201
Idler pulley 13503-0F010
Idler pulley 13505-0F010
Tensioner (T-belt) 13540-50030
Tensioner (serp belt) 16620-0W101
Thermostat 90916-03100
Thermostat gasket 16346-50010
Housing O-ring 96761-24019
Fan bracket 16307-0F010
Serpentine belt idler 16604-0F010
Upper radiator hose 16571-50150
Lower radiator hose 16572-50150
Heater hose T fittings 87248-60460 (2)
 
AZBuman said:
Also forgot to mention, I am on a military base so I have access to the auto craft shop and all their tools so I don’t think I will need any special tools outside of what they have. But if there is a specific tool someone used and found it extremely handy, I’d love to know. Thanks
Click to expand...
I throw my 2 cent in the mix.

FSM calls for a SST (special service tool) to hold harmonic balancer (lower pulley) while removing crankshaft end bolt. Most shop mechanic just use old school tool, a chain wrench, which is faster and easier. I wrap a piece of the old serpentine belt around pulley to protect it from possible chain wrench damage. See: chain wrench used on this 2UZ-fe VVTi engine at minute ~3:39: notice he did not wrap pulley for protection like I do.

You can leave the radiator in if you like. Just place a piece of cardboard over it, to protect cooling fins & your knuckles.

Use de-mineralized water, not all distilled water is, with your Toyota red non premix formula at 50/50 mix. Minerals are the number one cause for coolant system failures.

FSM has very specific procedure for removing belt. This is so the valve spring tension on camshaft lob doesn't suddenly turn camshaft as belt is removed. Which may cause a valve(s) to strike piston head. I have followed this procedure closely in past. Many now believe as do I; the non VVT (pre 2006 -07) is not and interference engine, so they are not concerned with valve striking piston.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I check the coolant and it is the 50/50 mix. I did add cam seals. I gotta admit the job makes me nervous but I am eager to learn. I figure its best to learn something new and save some money. Can wait for this blizzard to get out of here so I can start PB blasting some engine cover bolts.
 
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