- Joined
- Sep 26, 2005
- Threads
- 16
- Messages
- 86
- Location
- JP, MA 02130
- Website
- www.interrobangletterpress.com
9/78 FJ40.
I should mention that I have a Mallotte fiberglass tub, and it's 17 years old. If I knew then what I know now, etc. Done before Aluminum tubs hit their stride. So, this may be as simple as a ground connection, but it's only a recent issue. No insurmountable electrical problems in 16+ years. I should also mention that my entire front end is steel. Bib, aprons, hood, and 9 year old fenders. OEM turn signals and connectors into loom. OEM loom.
The issue:
Headlights and driving lights off: turn signals work
Headlights and/or driving lights on: turn signals don't work
1: Pulled the headlight switch out, opened and cleaned up all the contacts. Discontinued, thankfully these appear bullet proof.
2: Pulled the fuse block and noted 35 years of oxidation. Wire brush and emory paper. Reinstall. No change.
3: Swapped the fuse block out for a cleaner spare I had on an extra wiring harness thinking there may have been something rotten in my original block. Reconnected, dash lights are brighter, but the issue persists.
Fuse block has three major connectors on back: Green 8-blade connector feeds juice in to all blades/ fuses.
Black, and Clear connectors split off to send juice to the loom and devices.
Black 5-blade connector feeds Tails, Stops, Lighter, Heads, and Heater.
Clear 3-blade connector feeds Turns, Wiper, and Engine.
Single feed to Radio.
Headlight switch in first or second position, if I pull the black connector of the back of the fuse block, disabling tails, stops, lighter, heads, and heater; signals work. As soon as I plug the black connector back onto the fuse block, turn signal stop, but control cluster signal light is lit as if the turn bulb is burnt out. I can manually actuate the signals as a stop-gap by flipping the signal arm up and neutral for a right turn, down and neutral for left turn.
Headlights, and/or driving lights ON, signals disabled; wipers work.
Note that turn signals and wipers share a fuse block circuit.
So, signal relay works (with head/driving light off), and juice is going where it needs to, since I can force signals manually.
Is this clear? Apologies if this is exhaustive in detail. I try to be thorough.
Any insight? Thoughts? Next steps? My electrical knowledge is functional, not advanced.
I should mention that I have a Mallotte fiberglass tub, and it's 17 years old. If I knew then what I know now, etc. Done before Aluminum tubs hit their stride. So, this may be as simple as a ground connection, but it's only a recent issue. No insurmountable electrical problems in 16+ years. I should also mention that my entire front end is steel. Bib, aprons, hood, and 9 year old fenders. OEM turn signals and connectors into loom. OEM loom.
The issue:
Headlights and driving lights off: turn signals work
Headlights and/or driving lights on: turn signals don't work
1: Pulled the headlight switch out, opened and cleaned up all the contacts. Discontinued, thankfully these appear bullet proof.
2: Pulled the fuse block and noted 35 years of oxidation. Wire brush and emory paper. Reinstall. No change.
3: Swapped the fuse block out for a cleaner spare I had on an extra wiring harness thinking there may have been something rotten in my original block. Reconnected, dash lights are brighter, but the issue persists.
Fuse block has three major connectors on back: Green 8-blade connector feeds juice in to all blades/ fuses.
Black, and Clear connectors split off to send juice to the loom and devices.
Black 5-blade connector feeds Tails, Stops, Lighter, Heads, and Heater.
Clear 3-blade connector feeds Turns, Wiper, and Engine.
Single feed to Radio.
Headlight switch in first or second position, if I pull the black connector of the back of the fuse block, disabling tails, stops, lighter, heads, and heater; signals work. As soon as I plug the black connector back onto the fuse block, turn signal stop, but control cluster signal light is lit as if the turn bulb is burnt out. I can manually actuate the signals as a stop-gap by flipping the signal arm up and neutral for a right turn, down and neutral for left turn.
Headlights, and/or driving lights ON, signals disabled; wipers work.
Note that turn signals and wipers share a fuse block circuit.
So, signal relay works (with head/driving light off), and juice is going where it needs to, since I can force signals manually.
Is this clear? Apologies if this is exhaustive in detail. I try to be thorough.
Any insight? Thoughts? Next steps? My electrical knowledge is functional, not advanced.