Another Shuttering/Shuddering Thread (1 Viewer)

[BnvS]

Hey guys so just notice this issue that started from yesterday.

1st time I noticed it I was getting on an interstate ramp, the ramp goes down but the interstate slights goes up hill from the ramp. Anyways I noticed a shuttering/shuddering (whatever you call it) while accelerating on the hill. The car was just warmed up then. I didn't notice a drop in RPM at this time. Initially thought It can be transmission problem. This is a LC 2000 with around 165k miles on it.

2nd time I noticed it today in the morning right after I turn the engine on. It shudders when cold initially. But after driving it to normal driving temp I feel it again 2 time again, once somewhat strong the other just a hint of shuddering. Certainly not how I felt it in the morning. Again the RPM did not drop, it just shudders that's all. Drove it another 2 times today, and it ran perfectly.

I have no check engine light come on at any time and checked they where no fault codes.

BTW reading some other forums on this, I did change my gas to another (cheaper) gas company. It could be just bad gas maybe? I didn't notice this issue ever before this. I could change my gas and see if that is the issue. I put in 87 oct in it. Would bad gas throw any fault codes?

So I am thinking the following -

Cause 1 - If its the transmission issue - What should I see?? I should see the RPM rev up or down right? Should I see any fault codes?

Cause 2 - If this is a coil pack issue - What behavior should I see? I should see fault codes here right?

Cause 3 - Bad Gas - What behavior should i see? I dont think i'll see fault codes here....right?

Cause 4 - Other sensor causing this behavior TPS/MAF/??

Cause 5 - Act of God - worse case change transmission - Hopefully its not this.

 

[DTCsk8er]

When was the last time the engine had a tune up; specifically plugs/wires? I've had coil packs that head out with this sort of symptom leading to it.

There are a few things you could try; cleaning the MAF, plugs/wires, etc. But really, it depends on the overall health and maintenance you've already done on the rig.

 

[BnvS]

So I was out to get the fault codes and found non from Torque Pro. I did notice that even under idle it was shuttering a little.

BTW I cleaned the MAF sensor with the MAF cleaner. that didnt do the trick. Still having the same issue. I feel this is a fuel issue for some reason. Will keep on t-shooting.

@DTCsk8er so I have not had a full tune up yet. When I bought it 2 years back I did a all fluid replacement. Air filter, cabin filter change.

 

[Spike555]

If your gut is telling you bad gas then go top off the tank with whatever you were using before, this will dilute the bad gas if that's what happened and make this issue "smaller."

Pay attention to your rpm as you drive and feel for the shifts and take mental note of the rpm's, it may not have downshifted when you started up the ramp.
Most likely, by the sounds of it, it is your touqre converter not unlocking, which seems to be an issue with the 4speed transmission.
Check your transmission fluid condition and level.

 

[Dwight S]

The most likely cause is a coil pack. It may not be bad enough to give a code for a while. I’ve driven a week or more with only a slight hesitation when the truck was cold. My last one ran real rough suddenly but didn’t give me a code until after I had driven 15 miles in stop and go traffic.

 

[RND1]

This quote is from a recent post in the 200 forum from a guy who sold his 100, bought a 200 and discovered a shudder which ultimately turned out to be a failed torque converter in which the Lexus dealer said it needs a new transmission. Sorry to say, but it sounds awful similar to what you're experiencing?

"Over the next two days I drive the truck (albeit not much as I like to listen to music when driving) and notice something very strange.

Upon light acceleration and at about 20-40 MPH (it varies at times), the whole car quickly and violently shudders/shakes for a 3 second or so period. The LX trucks by nature shift so smoothly I can’t pinpoint if it’s happening during a gear change or not. It certainly feels transmission related. In my 30 minute drive yesterday it occurred maybe 3 Times."

 

[BnvS]

This quote is from a recent post in the 200 forum from a guy who sold his 100, bought a 200 and discovered a shudder which ultimately turned out to be a failed torque converter in which the Lexus dealer said it needs a new transmission. Sorry to say, but it sounds awful similar to what you're experiencing?

"Over the next two days I drive the truck (albeit not much as I like to listen to music when driving) and notice something very strange.

Upon light acceleration and at about 20-40 MPH (it varies at times), the whole car quickly and violently shudders/shakes for a 3 second or so period. The LX trucks by nature shift so smoothly I can’t pinpoint if it’s happening during a gear change or not. It certainly feels transmission related. In my 30 minute drive yesterday it occurred maybe 3 Times."

Hmm the above doesn't seem like my case cause its not too violent. Just a hesitation of max a second and its fine. now that happens like 2-3 times in a row. then its fine again. I am thinking mine could be the coils.

 

[RND1]

Hmm the above doesn't seem like my case cause its not too violent. Just a hesitation of max a second and its fine. now that happens like 2-3 times in a row. then its fine again. I am thinking mine could be the coils.

Excellent - hope it's the coils. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[BnvS]

Alright after a while i finally got a blinking check engine sign during the miss fire. When I look up the code I finally had one saying "P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected". I am going to swap the coils out and see if the issue follows the coil. Either case i'h ordered the original coil from Denso from Amazon. Its likely the engine coils as suspected. I will swap it out with the new one and report back. Do you think I should swap all the spark plugs and wires while I am at it or not at this time?

BTW I do smell a little oilish smell as well. Do you think its the timing belt as well that could be wearing out as well. It does have 165k.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...c_sfl_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=ihco-20#

 

[Dwight S]

If you don’t have record of a previous plug change, it may be a good time. If this is your first coil pack issue, it won’t be your last, unless you change all eight now. They tend to fail one or two at a time.

As for the oil smell, probably the valve cover gaskets weeping a little. You can check by using a socket on a driver handle to see if you can slightly tighten the valve cover bolts. Don’t use a ratchet, you can over tighten them. The FSM states they only require 8# of torque.

 

[Elavarasan]

I will share my experience,

I drive a 2004 LC100 with 1FZFE mated to A442F.
6 months ago, my truck started shuddering while reaching 80-100 kmph @2000 RPM.
Things I checked before the issue was fixed.

1. Transmission fluid change (draining from the cooler line and filling method).
2. I looked for the burnt wiring harness near the EGR valve. Funny enough, my rig does not have an EGR valve.
3. Checked for front end issues such as wheel bearings, cv joints, spider joints, tire balancing and wheel alignment.
4. Took my car to a transmission shop and they were confident that transmission rebuild will fix the shudder.So, I took their suggestion.

The rebuild did not improve anything. The transmission shop guys were shocked and promised that they will fix the issues with no addition charges. They took my car to another garage who is specialized in engine rebuilds. With in five minutes, the mechanic there told us to renew the spark plug cables and he was ready to pay for the spark plug cables if it did not fix the issue.

His conviction gave us the confidence and renewed all six cables. Now the rig runs like new.

Now I know the reason why there was heavy raw gasoline smell during or right after the shudder especially trying to accelerate while shuddering. Injectors were working but ignition was not taking place in one or more cylinders.

Lesson Learned:

Always start with less expensive repairs.