Another one bites the dust.

[ginericLC]

The ring portion that is showing looks OK in the pictures. The pinion could be screwed up though. I'm thinking you may have got lucky.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Just make sure that there isn't too much oil coming out of the air breather on an ARB air locker!

.....

FYI ANY oil is to much. There is an O-ring that seals the solenoid actuator for the locker, it's common for this to fail over time. If there is oil blow by with a new installation it was done incorrectly. The O-Rings in the ARB lockers on my FJ40 lasted about 8 years before they failed.

If you have a failure order the whole air tube assembly since the copper air tube is easy to break when you replace the o-ring.

 

[RoderickGI]

FYI ANY oil is to much.

That's what I thought, and kept telling the ARB dealer, but they weren't listening. I guess they didn't want to pull the diff down again and fix it. In the end, other people had to do the work, not the original dealer.

I now have a small plastic bottle attached to the end of the air breather, catching any and all oil that comes out. I check it occassionally, and so far not a drop has appeared. That gives me great peace of mind.

 

[MEMCruiser]

Guys I got a few questions to ask.

1. What maint. items are easy to do and should be done while the diff and front axles are out?

2. I have read about 100's who blew the diff and then after putting in new diff discovered that the transfer case was bad also. Is there any way of finding that out before I put in the new diff?

Thanks for your help and insight. This website is great.

 

[ginericLC]

If you need to do brakes they would be easy, wheel bearing pack for sure. And tie rod ends that are bad should be done.

The only way I could see a diff blowing being related to a transfer case failure is if you drove it without the center diff locked after pulling the front driveshaft. And if you try to do this, the vehicle won't move. I imagine that spinning could cause a TC to go.

 

[spressomon]

Guys I got a few questions to ask.

1. What maint. items are easy to do and should be done while the diff and front axles are out?

2. I have read about 100's who blew the diff and then after putting in new diff discovered that the transfer case was bad also. Is there any way of finding that out before I put in the new diff?

Thanks for your help and insight. This website is great.

Check upper and lower ball joints; wheel bearings and related seals. It appears from your opened diff photo it wasn't a 'violent' break event as some have been. I think it would be unusual to have down stream damage to the TC. However I have a functional spare TC just in case you need it later!

 

[wildsmith]

2. I have read about 100's who blew the diff and then after putting in new diff discovered that the transfer case was bad also. Is there any way of finding that out before I put in the new diff?

I blew the TC diff first and then the front axle, two seperate events . The TC diff failure for me was a lot like you're looking at in your front diff. To test for that, with the front prop off and the TC unlocked and in neutral, check you can rotate the front output flange (what the prop connects to) fully without feeling any binding. That will get the gears in the centre diff turning to check for missing teeth. On mine when it was broken it would bind at one point and need some leverage with a bar to continue round. You're looking for a change in how it turns rather than needing to judge the whole range of motion IMO.