Another one bites the dust.

[spressomon]

To add: Once you have the front locker you will be amazed how much you use it! The 100 compared to the 80 has more weight bias rearward making the front tires slip/lose traction before the 80's I run with. I typically use the front locker (with center locked) on my 100 when 80 guys are using their rear locker.

 

[ginericLC]

I agree with Spress on this. I use mine a lot more than I have to or thought I would need to. I do it so that I'm not putting undo stress on the vehicle. In my 80s I got away without using it until the most extreme circumstances arose.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

To add: Once you have the front locker you will be amazed how much you use it! The 100 compared to the 80 has more weight bias rearward making the front tires slip/lose traction before the 80's I run with. I typically use the front locker (with center locked) on my 100 when 80 guys are using their rear locker.

Funny, I noticed that on our trip.

I think is has more to do with (a lack of) axle articulation than weight distribution. The 80s would tend to stay planted on all 4s when the 100 was lifting up a tire. The DiscoIIs had exactly that same issue if you recall.

Anyway whether it was the locker or just good driving the 100 went everywhere everyone else did, even though the discos had to strapped or winched a couple of times.

If I had a 100, which I don't, the first mod would be an ARB up front, no question. With a broken front diff, it would be automatic.

 

[locrwln1]

Just to add more to this...

I have wheeled with a stock 98 (broke the front diff on a very mild section of trail in the middle of Nevada) and extensively with Spresso (who was also on that trip).

Spresso and I were were in a very bad place a year or so ago and we were climbing out of a deep ravine with loose rocks and steep inclines. Spresso was fully loaded and pulling his very heavy Horizon trailer. Somehow he had hit his center diff-lock switch and had the front (ARB) and rear axles locked. Once the center diff unlocked, the front was doing all of the work. Not realizing it, Spresso was gettin' it trying to get out of a bad situation, I watched the front take a hell of a beating and nothing broke. I finally got him to let off; he re-engaged the center diff and it was all good from there. I was shocked that it held up.

So from my experience, do the ARB, it will take it. I wouldn't trust the stock diffs at all...

Jack

 

[spressomon]

Just to add more to this...

I have wheeled with a stock 98 (broke the front diff on a very mild section of trail in the middle of Nevada) and extensively with Spresso (who was also on that trip).

Spresso and I were were in a very bad place a year or so ago and we were climbing out of a deep ravine with loose rocks and steep inclines. Spresso was fully loaded and pulling his very heavy Horizon trailer. Somehow he had hit his center diff-lock switch and had the front (ARB) and rear axles locked. Once the center diff unlocked, the front was doing all of the work. Not realizing it, Spresso was gettin' it trying to get out of a bad situation, I watched the front take a hell of a beating and nothing broke. I finally got him to let off; he re-engaged the center diff and it was all good from there. I was shocked that it held up.

So from my experience, do the ARB, it will take it. I wouldn't trust the stock diffs at all...

Jack

Yes that was a pucker moment/hill for sure...at least for me! That's when I had the darn Ham mic located next to the darn CDL button (stupid stupid stupid)...having relocated its resting place I no longer accidently hit the CDL switch .

But I'd love to do that route again before the whole darn area gets roped off!

 

[spressomon]

Funny, I noticed that on our trip.

I think is has more to do with (a lack of) axle articulation than weight distribution. The 80s would tend to stay planted on all 4s when the 100 was lifting up a tire. The DiscoIIs had exactly that same issue if you recall..

I certainly concur Andy especially on undulating terrain. But when on steep flat (where as one of the front tires isn't lifted/unduly unweighted) hill climbs I always seem to lose front traction before an 80 (unlocked front to unlocked front). And I believe the 80's with the heavier engine and SAS have at least 200lbs more weight over the front end compared to a 100.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Just to add more to this...

I have wheeled with a stock 98 (broke the front diff on a very mild section of trail in the middle of Nevada) and extensively with Spresso (who was also on that trip).

Spresso and I were were in a very bad place a year or so ago and we were climbing out of a deep ravine with loose rocks and steep inclines. Spresso was fully loaded and pulling his very heavy Horizon trailer. Somehow he had hit his center diff-lock switch and had the front (ARB) and rear axles locked. Once the center diff unlocked, the front was doing all of the work. Not realizing it, Spresso was gettin' it trying to get out of a bad situation, I watched the front take a hell of a beating and nothing broke. I finally got him to let off; he re-engaged the center diff and it was all good from there. I was shocked that it held up.

So from my experience, do the ARB, it will take it. I wouldn't trust the stock diffs at all...

Jack

The 98 was me.
At that time it cost more to buy the parts to repair the diff than to buy a whole new center section.
I had the good fortune to know Spresso who had a set of factory gears left over from his re-gearing. IIRC with the free gears the cost of upgrading to the ARB was only about $200 or $300 more than upgrading to the 4 pinion. Basically the cost of setting up the ARB and gears.

Spresso and Locrwln1 helped me with the remove and replace of the center section. Between us it was about 4 hours for each operation. Without their help I don't know that I could have been successful doing the job, they are both very competent mechanics.

Since the repair I've had occasion to put my 100 through way worse shock loads than the one that broke it without any problems. Since I broke my diff on the first trip we took the truck on I don't really have a feel for how much difference it makes having a front locker.

Just based on reports I've read here I wouldn't fool around with anything except the ARB option.

 

[Snook]

I blew my front twice, one in right front of Cruiserdrew when I got struck at angled rock slab that is rated so so. I forgot to enable center locker at Slick Rock Trail. Duh.

After the ARB was installed in front, a peace of mind has come but only after my wallet gets back to a normal thickness.

Cheers,

 

[rusty_tlc]

I blew my front twice, one in right front of Cruiserdrew when I got struck at angled rock slab that is rated so so. I forgot to enable center locker at Slick Rock Trail. Duh.

After the ARB was installed in front, a peace of mind has come but only after my wallet gets back to a normal thickness.

Cheers,

You own a Cruiser, the normal thickness is pretty thin to start with.

 

[farinvail]

Another plug for staying at stock gearing and adding ARB front locker. Sorry about the break. welcome to the club.

 

[steenh]

Didn't break mine... but did put an ARB in to be safe, and enjoy the added capability of the front locker. Breaking it makes an ARB a no-brainer. Isn't cheap, but isn't all that expensive either and is the best money you can spend on a hundy.

 

[RoderickGI]

Just make sure that there isn't too much oil coming out of the air breather on an ARB air locker!

I had an ARB air locker installed on my LX470 by an ARB dealer before a big trip around Australia. Three times I reported that I thought too much oil was coming out of the air breather, and they had the vehicle at the shop two of those times doing other work. Well, first day into my trip the front diff failed. Enough oil had been pumped out the breather to leave the rear bearing out of oil, and it destroyed itself. ARB fixed the problem at their cost, but subcontrated the diff setup. The subconstrator honed the surface the rear seal runs on, since it was overheated and a little damaged. I wasn't happy with that, but they said that was standard procedure.

The original failure was because a seal in the air driven actuating piston had been pinched during assembly, so oil blew back past the seal into the air breather line, effectively pumping all the oil out a little at a time.

I took the repaired diff through central Australia, having the oil level checked in Alice Springs. There seemed to be a little weeping, but nothing serious. When I got to the East coast I had it checked again. The oil level had once again dropped below the rear seal, leaking out passed that seal. The front diff had to be completely rebuilt this time, as the ring and pinion gears hardened surface had been worn through, due to the gears being incorrectly fitted during the previous repair! The second repair was done by a diff specialist of my choosing. New gears all around. I made ARB pay for the lot, though they didn't agree too easily.

The front locker has been most useful, although I rarely push the LX470 too hard. I have had to use it to get up some pretty nasty tracks. I'm very happy I had it installed. I just wish it had been done right the first time. I lost at least three weeks travelling time in those two repairs.

Why share this story? Well, if you don't know what you are doing with a diff, use a specialist to install the new ARB. If you get the preload or alignment wrong, you can do a lot of expensive damage. Ring and Pinion gears are not cheap. You don't want to be replacing them because you tried to save a few bucks installing the ARB yourself. Just make sure whoever does it for you knows what they are doing, and will stand behind their work.

 

[MEMCruiser]

. Grey diff fluid indicates wear. When it breaks it breaks in chunks, the fine stuff is wear.

I was reading about breather tubes for diffs, trannys, elocker, and transfer case. Post said if water gets in it it will look milky. That is exactly what my diff fluid looked like when drained in the field. Looked like gray milk. Any chance water got in it and killed it. I have done a few water crossings but nothing much above the rocker panels.

 

[MEMCruiser]

Finally got diff torn apart. I have taken it apart and posted a picture with the damage. It looks like the metal part that attaches to the spline of the right axle is what is gone. Sorry, I do not know the terminology and will look it up as soon as done with post.

So after you guys look at pic tell me what you think. I am wanting to fix it with a locker system. How much is the repair gonna cost?

 

[wildsmith]

If you're going to ARB it you'll be throwing that part of the diff on the scrap pile anyway. That whole carrier assembly that the ring gear is bolted to get's replaced by the ARB which your existing ring gear gets transfered onto. Cost will be the ARB, someone installing it and an air source.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

How does the ring and pinion look after having the hard metal of the side gear circulate through there? That would be a major bonus if it was still good.

 

[MEMCruiser]

I did not see any other damage. But I am no expert. I am not even sure what the ring and pinion is exactly. I think it is the big gear on the outside.

Here is a wider shot.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Yes, the ring is the big gear. You sheared the teeth on one of the spider gears. It's the most common breakage for that type of diff. It's when the pieces from it get into the ring and pinion that more expensive repairs come up. Since the 4 pinion diff's guts have their own part number, I wondered if they can be ordered individually and swapped into the 2 pinion diff housing. But, the entire carriers are different between the two also - so, not that simple.

You've got two options (well, 3 if you replaced with 2 pinion) for repair - replace with OEM parts and go 4 pinion or replace with an ARB locker.

Top pic is the 2 pinion diff, bottom is the 4 pinion.

 

[RoderickGI]

I am not even sure what the ring and pinion is exactly. I think it is the big gear on the outside.

Wikipedia is your friend. Differential (mechanical device) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia It even uses an ARB air locker as an example, so you can see what will be replaced, which is essentially the Cage/Carrier and all gears in it.



The big gear you can see is the Ring or Crown Gear. The Pinion Gear is out of sight behind the Cage.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

air locker time

Well, it looks like your spider gears are broken. Hopefully the ring & pinion is not damaged as a result. If you intend to run stock gearing and the R&P is in fact ok, I'd install the ARB, all new bearings and seals.

I did not see any other damage. But I am no expert. I am not even sure what the ring and pinion is exactly. I think it is the big gear on the outside.

Here is a wider shot.

View attachment 366484