Yeah, let me see if I can find where he sent them to me. If not, I will see if he still has them.
Another LJ78 build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 40SeriesBen
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- #22
So a little update..... :/ so since I’ve owned the 78, it’s had a really bad oil leak. Bad enough, when idling at temp, will drip every minute. I spent a few hours the other day steam cleaning the engine and while under side. I first thought it was the oil cooler that was leaking, but after the cleaning it appears it’s coming from near the front of the engine below the exhaust manifold. I need to remove the a/c compressor and bracket to get a better look at where it’s coming from. From pictures online of the engine block, it seems it can only really come from two places. Either the head gasket or the front timing belt housing that bolts to the head and block. Thoughts?
If it's leaking from the front behind the timing cover, it will be one of the seals. And you will have to pull the belt and pulleys to replace them. It not a hard job, just a lot to take apart.
Take a look in my thread, I have a few pictures with that cover off and you can see what's behind there.
But, I would first check the valve cover. It humps up over the cam in the front and if the corners weren't sealed it could leak there and come down the front.
Plus, that's about the easiest gasket on the engine to get to. So, worth a shot for sure.
Take a look in my thread, I have a few pictures with that cover off and you can see what's behind there.
But, I would first check the valve cover. It humps up over the cam in the front and if the corners weren't sealed it could leak there and come down the front.
Plus, that's about the easiest gasket on the engine to get to. So, worth a shot for sure.
- Thread starter
- #24
Alright so hadn’t had time really the past week til today too dig back into the cruiser. A couple small parts arrived so that’s exciting. Pulled the a/c compressor and bracket to further diagnose where the aweful oil leak is coming from. Here’s some pictures. What do you guys think?
It could be coming from the cam seal. There is a split with a ledge in the back of the timing chest. If I ran down to that it could make it's way to the side there.
I think you are going to have to dig deeper.
I think you are going to have to dig deeper.
- Thread starter
- #26
That’s good to know!!! I think this week I’ll be tearing it all down. I’m assuming I’ll have to remove the upper tin cover to get to the cam seal? Probably just order a whole gasket kit for the engine?
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
When the valve cover gasket is put on, you're supposed to apply silicone on each side of the cam shaft oil seal retainer where it meets the cylinder head. If you don't, you'll get a leak like that as well...
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- #28
So from the top looking down I can see where the valve cover bump is for the cam at the front. It’s definitely not leaking from the valve cover gasket, and I can see they did put silicone on both sides. Maybe it’s leaking on the bottom side where I can’t see it. What’s a good reseal kit to but. Might as well reseal the whole front of the engine since it will be all apart.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
I bought this set when I had my engine apart: 0411154104 Genuine Toyota Gasket Kit Engine Overhaul 04111-54104 | eBay
- Thread starter
- #30
So worked on the truck a little this evening. Got almost everything removed but the harmonic balancer. The bolt holding it to the crank was loose :/ I can wiggle it a bit back and forth but it will not pull off. Tried gently prying on it but to no avail. I’m hoping it’s not trashed. Will be bringing home a puller from work tomorrow and remove it then I can remove the timing cover to see just where the oil is coming from. Hoping nothing too bad.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Oh boy, that is no good. I hope the crank pulley or crank shaft are not damaged. Usually when the crank bolt has come loose, the pulley beats up the key in the crank pretty bad. Sometimes it enlarges the keyway in the crank pulley as well.
I ended up making a tool that bolts to the crank pulley and has a hole in the middle that I can put a socket through. The tool I made is about 3' long or more. I use a 3' breaker bar on the socket. Works well to torque that crank bolt properly so this sort of thing doesn't happen.
I ended up making a tool that bolts to the crank pulley and has a hole in the middle that I can put a socket through. The tool I made is about 3' long or more. I use a 3' breaker bar on the socket. Works well to torque that crank bolt properly so this sort of thing doesn't happen.
Yeah, that could be trouble if it has chewed up the keyway. Hopefully not.
Also, in response to a number of people seeing this lately, when you get your harmonic balancer off, check that the rubber isn't degraded between the pieces. If it flies apart, it's probably going to eat you radiator. And, can cause vibration even if it doesn't fail.
Also, in response to a number of people seeing this lately, when you get your harmonic balancer off, check that the rubber isn't degraded between the pieces. If it flies apart, it's probably going to eat you radiator. And, can cause vibration even if it doesn't fail.
- Thread starter
- #33
Ok so I just removed the harmonic balancer and timing cover. As expected the balancer is trashed. The key way is all mangled:/ there’s rust dust all over the inside timing cover cavity from the balancer moving on the crank. What’s the best way to crank them engine over to get everything in time so I can remove the timing belt?
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- #34
Alright dug deeper and I’m thinking the oil is coming from the cam front housing assy. The cam seal isn’t leaking but the 4 bolt housing appears to be the culprit. Looks like I’ll have to pull the valve cover to remove it.
Yep, I believe you are right. That's a nice leak. Should be an easy fix at this point at least. Good time to paint your valve cover a less blue color if you are so inclined.
Use the bolt in the crank to line it up. Turn only CW to set timing marks. You might have to go around twice since crank turns 2:1
Use the bolt in the crank to line it up. Turn only CW to set timing marks. You might have to go around twice since crank turns 2:1
- Thread starter
- #36
Yup, have a nice list of parts to order up! Going to check tomorrow to see if the oil leaks there after I cleaned it. Should be pretty straight foreword. And I am planning on painting the valve cover 
Yep, I believe you are right. That's a nice leak. Should be an easy fix at this point at least. Good time to paint your valve cover a less blue color if you are so inclined.
Use the bolt in the crank to line it up. Turn only CW to set timing marks. You might have to go around twice since crank turns 2:1
Hey NAS! What’s wrong with blue???
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HA, have you seen what someone has done to his engine bay?
It's not a little blue like yours. It's a paint can explosion. I know you like the blue wire loom for sure.
It's not a little blue like yours. It's a paint can explosion. I know you like the blue wire loom for sure.
- Thread starter
- #39
So true! The head was replaced since with a 3l head and very happy they kept it black. So with the valve cover silver again, I think it will balance out the bits of blue that are left!HA, have you seen what someone has done to his engine bay?
It's not a little blue like yours. It's a paint can explosion. I know you like the blue wire loom for sure.
- Thread starter
- #40
Well got home from work today and checked the oil leak. It’s confirmed it’s the front cam housing will be ordering all parts needed this evening. Hopefully won’t be down more then 2 weeks.
will be ordering all parts needed this evening. Hopefully won’t be down more then 2 weeks.
