Another caster correction question (1 Viewer)

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So I went and had my truck aligned the other day. Well needless to say my caster is off more than I had thought. Im running J springs front and rear with a Manafre spacer up front to level it out. For caster I am using the yellow caster correction bushings that came with the kit. Well according to my alignment sheet it is showing -1.4. I think it is supposed to be around 3. So what are my options here. I really dont want to remove the yellow OME bushings, can I add Landtank or Slee CC plates or Manafre drop brakets to my set up to make up for it? Not really sure what to do. The truck drives fine down the road, unless you hit the uneven parts where semis have caused ruts in pavement. On the highway it is fine, no wandering. I have searched but have not found similar issue in other thread.

Thanks
 
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Jul 20, 2004
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You could run OME bushings, but they are stiffer, don't flex as well. I would push in a set of stockers, then pick your poison, washer mod, plates or brackets.
 

landtank

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people who have corrected for Js and gotten the caster in range have done so with plates. Plates will align the pinion for a DC shaft so with out that shaft you can expect some vibs.

I can't comment about using the OME bushings with the Slee plates but two people have used them with my plates and have reported that everything was fine. I would expect more contact between the tie rod and front arms which would mean some grinding to clearance them. And you should realize that one persons "fine" is someone else's disaster.

You could try and add some plates but should realize that you might need to remove the bushings and go with stock ones as well as buying a DC shaft.
 
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Trade someone your arms with the bushings with someone with stock bushings, then go for the plates.

You may need other things to make the truck drive smoothly with plates though, like the driveshaft that Landtank mentioned.
 
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What about swapping out the OME yellows for a set of the Slee Blue ones. I dont mind buying Landtanks CC plates, but Im really trying to avoid buying the DC shaft.
 

landtank

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What about swapping out the OME yellows for a set of the Slee Blue ones. I dont mind buying Landtanks CC plates, but Im really trying to avoid buying the DC shaft.
Talk to NAY on here. He had a different set of springs but was at a similar height. With Slee's blue bushings installed he ended up needing a DC shaft because of vibs and now has plates. He might be able to give you some insight on what you are going through and the improvements you might see after correcting the caster.
 

Nay

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Talk to NAY on here. He had a different set of springs but was at a similar height. With Slee's blue bushings installed he ended up needing a DC shaft because of vibs and now has plates. He might be able to give you some insight on what you are going through and the improvements you might see after correcting the caster.
I took a chance on vibes with the Slee blues, and I didn't win. So I had to do a DC shaft anyway. I was also trying to avoid the cost of going back to stock rubber bushings since my rig had OME bushings when I bought it.

Now I have a bit more lift (closer to 4") where Slee blues are not enough, and with the plates it drives better than it did on OME medium with bushings, no question.

If you can afford it, go back to stock bushings and do the plates and DC shaft.
 

AutoCraft Aus

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Between the bay and the Ocean Vic Aus.
 
 
We see about 1 in 10 with driveshaft vibe that needs a double cardin to fix.

Gearbox spacers can help, so can using odffset bearings on the swivels so the diff stays where it is, and the swivel hubs rotate for the correct castor.

We normally use 2 deg bushes and slot the holes and re weld, or std bushes on rear of diff mounts to keep the steering arm up off the control arms, and slotted front holes with 2 deg bushes.

All depends how much is required, we often do king pin bearings, as we can get 1 deg neg camber at the same time so the car turns in better as well, on larger tyres, and stops the outer edge tyre wear too.

Be careful with "rubber bushes" imported, if its a daily driver, you may find replacement required often.
 
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Can you give us a little more info on the 1 deg neg camber king pin bearings? ....this seems like a good idea when doing an axle rebuild.
 
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Slee says you can't use the cc bushings AND their plates.

I have the 4" springs and plates, just got my rig from the alignment shop and it read 1.3 on one side and 1.5 on the other. I dont know why it is not withing spec since i have a typical setup.

Maybe Landtank's plates give more correction than Slee?
 

landtank

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Slee says you can't use the cc bushings AND their plates.

I have the 4" springs and plates, just got my rig from the alignment shop and it read 1.3 on one side and 1.5 on the other. I dont know why it is not withing spec since i have a typical setup.

Maybe Landtank's plates give more correction than Slee?
You can't assume that since you have plates it will automatically work for a given spring length. An unweighted truck will sit higher than one that has a bunch of gear on it so the caster needs are different.

At the height you are the best solution is to align for a DC shaft since you probably don't want vibrations in the drive line. Because of this you end up aligning for a DC shaft which has tighter tolerances for pinion angle and less wiggle room when trying to get the most correction out of rotating the axle.

Whether or not my plates will improve your caster reading you should first make sure the axle is in good order. Trunion and wheel bearings can influence the readings and I'd check them before looking at alternative solutions. Even then I'd probably live with what you have unless you really felt it was needed because of some other issue such as poor handling or drive line vibs.
 
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Jul 20, 2004
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With plates, bushings, washer mod, etc, type correction and stock arms, you can only go so far, there has to be clearance between the arms and tie rod. When flexed the drooped side arm moves closer/contacts to the tie rod, so if you plan on wheeling more clearance is need or the arm can contact the tie rod causing steering component stress, bending, breakage. The plates that I have seen get about the max, so with CC bushings could cause problems.

If you need more, the options are brackets to lower the rear arm mount or aftermarket arms. The key is "need", the stock suggested caster number is great for a stock rig, once it's lifted with bigger tires it's probably not the best number, so the evaluation becomes how does it drive? If it drives well, has good return to center at highway speed, feels stable, what is the point of chasing a number that was developed for a rig with a different setup?

What is your toe setting? Setting it to the max or a little more helps with high speed stability.
 
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
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Fredericksburg, VA
 
 
 
Slee says you can't use the cc bushings AND their plates.

I have the 4" springs and plates, just got my rig from the alignment shop and it read 1.3 on one side and 1.5 on the other. I dont know why it is not withing spec since i have a typical setup.

Maybe Landtank's plates give more correction than Slee?
Where in F'Burg you located? Haven't seen too many 80s... and definitely no modded up ones around the area.

-Bill
 

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