Personally, I would just reuse the jets you found in it unless they are buggered up, in which case I would just replace them with the same size.
I have always had good luck reusing the originals.
Another Carb Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter 77mustard40
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Personally, I would just reuse the jets you found in it unless they are buggered up, in which case I would just replace them with the same size.
I have always had good luck reusing the originals.
Oops, for some reason I thought you were talking about having a '78 carb. According to SOR's Jet Size page, a 12/75 carb should have 144 main and 230 secondary. I'd probably start with the 150 and 220 like you said originally, and see what happens. I don't know if/how the emissions system in '75 would have compensated for the large jet sizes. Every year during the 70s seems to have a different jetting combo.
77mustard40
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After searching parts lists for 01/76 carbs I've decided to go with the 141-230 jets. Thanks to all who have helped sort through this.
77mustard40
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Reassembling Details
This evening I've had my first opportunity in a week to work on my carb and I'm attempting to reassemble all the wonderful parts, many of which I now know by name. In the process I have taken many photos, but as I try to bring it all back to what it looked like in the beginning I'm finding I did not take enough. I also must confess ignorance on many levels with this being my first attempt at a carb, coupled with the fact I have never seen this "stock carb" on my Cruiser. I'm therefore trying to move parts to see if I can figure out how this is really going to work.
Before I start snugging the air horn up to the bowl and re-attaching linkage with c-clips and cotter pins I wanted to toss out a couple of pics. If it looks like I have something terribly wrong I'd like to know before pulling it together. I'm also struggling with a part (in my hand) that must have been one of the first things off. Surely this little piece must have been intuitive coming apart so I did not take a picture, but I can't for the life of me figure out what its going to do back on or where exactly it goes. Any help, humor or criticism is welcomed.
This evening I've had my first opportunity in a week to work on my carb and I'm attempting to reassemble all the wonderful parts, many of which I now know by name. In the process I have taken many photos, but as I try to bring it all back to what it looked like in the beginning I'm finding I did not take enough. I also must confess ignorance on many levels with this being my first attempt at a carb, coupled with the fact I have never seen this "stock carb" on my Cruiser. I'm therefore trying to move parts to see if I can figure out how this is really going to work.
Before I start snugging the air horn up to the bowl and re-attaching linkage with c-clips and cotter pins I wanted to toss out a couple of pics. If it looks like I have something terribly wrong I'd like to know before pulling it together. I'm also struggling with a part (in my hand) that must have been one of the first things off. Surely this little piece must have been intuitive coming apart so I did not take a picture, but I can't for the life of me figure out what its going to do back on or where exactly it goes. Any help, humor or criticism is welcomed.
I don't know what it does, but IIRC it's held on by one of the air horn screws, and loops around either the fuel inlet or outlet. You can see it here, it looks like the fuel outlet to me (right hand side):
And here (left hand side):
And here (left hand side):
kiwidog
Kiwidog
77
C with hole is the fuel line banjo support.
Thanks jb
C with hole is the fuel line banjo support.
Thanks jb
I too recognize that part. (how sad is that...).
The good news is that your vehicle will run just fine without it. All that it does is to line up and support the fuel return line on the back side of the carb.
The good news is that your vehicle will run just fine without it. All that it does is to line up and support the fuel return line on the back side of the carb.
77mustard40
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Carb Done - next up insulator repair
Thanks guys, here's what I've got and no left over parts! Quick question, how much assist should the linkage provide to the secondary? As mine sits now it just cracks it slightly at the end of the primary's range of motion. I'm going to work back through the last steps of the FSM regarding setup to make sure everything is close since it seemed like there was an issue with just about everything I worked on. I have no idea how this carb was operating before I got it so I'm somewhat apprehensive.
I'm going to see if I can repair the insulator, if successful I may be making the switcheroo next weekend. I've got a pedal and linkage, air cleaner assembly, air filter and gasket for the top of the carb.
Thanks again for the guidance.
Thanks guys, here's what I've got and no left over parts! Quick question, how much assist should the linkage provide to the secondary? As mine sits now it just cracks it slightly at the end of the primary's range of motion. I'm going to work back through the last steps of the FSM regarding setup to make sure everything is close since it seemed like there was an issue with just about everything I worked on. I have no idea how this carb was operating before I got it so I'm somewhat apprehensive.
I'm going to see if I can repair the insulator, if successful I may be making the switcheroo next weekend. I've got a pedal and linkage, air cleaner assembly, air filter and gasket for the top of the carb.
Thanks again for the guidance.
This is correct. It is adjustable by bending the tab on the secondary link that hits the open primary. The opening is measured with an angle gauge. I went to some trouble to measure this, but so far the ones I have rebuilt were all within spec and no adjustment was needed.
77mustard40
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Went back through the FSM to make sure I have everything set to a solid initial position, think the carb is ready.
Cleaned up the insulator and took a shot with JB Weld at fixing the vacuum port, we'll see if this works.
Cleaned up the insulator and took a shot with JB Weld at fixing the vacuum port, we'll see if this works.
77mustard40
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One last question. When I pull the weber and install the rebuilt stock carb should I fabricate a steel fuel return line or simply cap the return? My supply hard line (while bent from original form) can be massaged into place
The purpose of the return line is to keep the fuel moving so that it doesn't overheat and result in vapor lock. I had issues running mine without the return.
