Anyone consider cutting the metal portion off of the replacement remote key housing and using it as a remote fob along with a standard master key? It would be bulky, but should hold up longer due to not twisting the thin remote housing. Could this work?
Why not just get a non-remote master and keep it on the same keychain as a remote master? If someone is that concerned about it, this would offer the best option of a key not breaking when starting the car and having a remote.
I bought one of the eBay shells that APKhaos listed almost 3 years ago(55 or 60k miles worth) and it has not broken yet.
I only keep it as a single key in my pocket (never hang it on a ring of other keys) and I also grip it as close to the blade as I can when I am turning the ignition. I never grip it out at the end because I feel like that puts more stress on the seam where the metal blade meets the plastic case.
Does anyone else here fell like a bit of a freak when wife/son/daughter is about to start the Hundy and even looks like they might be less than gentle with the key? NOOOOOoooooo......
Why not just get a non-remote master and keep it on the same keychain as a remote master? If someone is that concerned about it, this would offer the best option of a key not breaking when starting the car and having a remote.
That's what I suggested. I just thought that cutting the blade off the remote key would eliminate the potential mistake of inserting it into the ignition and eventually breaking it. Not to mention the size of both of those big keys along with your house key, office key, etc taking up space in your pocket.
Where is the transponder located in each type of key? Is it in the blade or under the plastic?
If you are just looking for a shank, the dealer can cut you a lock out key for cheap. Unless of course you already have a broken key case, then you'd already have an shank.
Aftermarket. I'm sick of my fob. It's junk. No range. Already pulled the guts from my fob and attached them behind the dash to my ignition cylinder. Using cheapo $2 key cut at Lowes now and purchasing aftermarket keyless/remote start. And eventually going to figure out how to retrofit push button start.
Sent from my iPhone. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.
there is probably no need to actually cut off the metal blade to keep just the fob. At least on our OEM key, it unscrewed open and the metal could be easily separated from the plastic IIRC (probably why they break so easily).
OTOH, attaching the transmitter to the column would kind of defeat the anti-theft aspect, no?
there is probably no need to actually cut off the metal blade to keep just the fob. At least on our OEM key, it unscrewed open and the metal could be easily separated from the plastic IIRC (probably why they break so easily).
well, to be fair, it's probably faster to saw off physically the blade if you have a saw than to take the thing apart, but I'm thinking it's good to keep the metal blade as long as possible so you can possibly use it later with some pliers if need be. Strangely, IIRC, the metal extended only a very short distance into the fob, like 1/4 inch. Weak. Of course, the fob is mostly filled with the remote electronics on a Master key so not a lot of room. But they could have (and maybe did) beefed up the plastic.
This may be stupid, but I've been thinking about this as my wife has broken yet another key. She keeps twisting even though it's unnecessary.
Anyways, I'm fixing (about ready) to embark on splitting my old fob shells and filling each side with fiberglass resin. Once they're dry, I'm going to transplant the lock controller over. I figure a solid device would dissipate the force felt when constant twisting is involved.
I'll take pics and post them up here. I gotta find something that's simple and not beyond a $5.00 fix.
As soon as I have some definitive answer, I'll let y'all know.
I would go for a solid metal key handle. A split block of Aluminium would do nicely... Some nice SS buttonhead bolts in there to sandwich things up. Would make for a wicked custom look....
there is probably no need to actually cut off the metal blade to keep just the fob. At least on our OEM key, it unscrewed open and the metal could be easily separated from the plastic IIRC (probably why they break so easily).
OTOH, attaching the transmitter to the column would kind of defeat the anti-theft aspect, no?
Yep. Defeats anti theft, kind of. But truth is, I don't need anti theft to that degree. Just my preference to not have to deal with the unreliable Toyota keyless. That being said, a fuel cutoff switch hidden somewhere would suffice
Sent from my iPhone. Clumsy fingers may contribute to mistakes.
That's what I suggested. I just thought that cutting the blade off the remote key would eliminate the potential mistake of inserting it into the ignition and eventually breaking it. Not to mention the size of both of those big keys along with your house key, office key, etc taking up space in your pocket.
Where is the transponder located in each type of key? Is it in the blade or under the plastic?
It's in the plastic. It wouldn't make sense to have it in the blade. I've heard of some guys cutting out the transponder and attaching it behind the ignition panel so they could just use a metal key to start the vehicle. But then that leaves the truck vulnerable to theft
It's in the plastic. It wouldn't make sense to have it in the blade. I've heard of some guys cutting out the transponder and attaching it behind the ignition panel so they could just use a metal key to start the vehicle. But then that leaves the truck vulnerable to theft
Why would anyone do that? If someone is that worried about breaking a remote key, why not just buy a non-remote master key, problem solved. I may be out of the norm, but both of my keys that are 15 years old are intact. And when one breaks, it's like $70 bucks to have the dealer cut me a new one. All this key case business seems like overkill.
