best place I have found for both price and quality is https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16372. under 4 bucks and all four I have gotten have seemed to be OEM or better.
Another Broken Key Shell
- Thread starter scottm
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How about getting an aftermarket (or OEM) keyless entry remote NOT part of the key?
I think i remember reading about getting any remote with the same FCC ID number and you can program it to do the lock/unlock, while you use the durable but compatible chip key blank (Camry or aftermarket) for the ignition.
It adds bulk of the extra remote, but the oem design is crap and was from day one.
I think i remember reading about getting any remote with the same FCC ID number and you can program it to do the lock/unlock, while you use the durable but compatible chip key blank (Camry or aftermarket) for the ignition.
It adds bulk of the extra remote, but the oem design is crap and was from day one.
That is kind of what I am trying to do on mine. I will see if I can get an all metal, or at least a much sturdier key cut. Then I will put it on the same key chain as my Key Shell key. It should work fine, because there is no need for a computer chip key, as the keyless entry transponder contains the chip.
I tested this by using the metal portion of the key (which had broken out of the shell) and attempting to start the car. When you turn the key by itself, the engine cranks, but does not start. But when you wave the transponder near the ignition, VOILA! it starts.
On my '02 Lexus key there is a little screw on the logo side of the fob just above the key. Vehicle has 68-69k miles on it and the key still looks new. I wonder if it's the same fob design as on the Cruiser?
- Thread starter
- #26
I found the electronic module in the key has to be very close to the ignition switch for it to work. Hanging it on a keychain would make it convenient, but you'll need to hold it close every time you start.
Solid keys with transponder chips built in might work, but if they do they might need to be programmed by the dealer. I just bought new keys for my '03 4R, solid rubber heads with transponders, the dealer had to program them.
I hope to get these cut to the VIN, I've had the dealer do several I bought there, they haven't been easy to work with. I've heard that locksmiths can cut to a VIN, haven't tried that.
Solid keys with transponder chips built in might work, but if they do they might need to be programmed by the dealer. I just bought new keys for my '03 4R, solid rubber heads with transponders, the dealer had to program them.
I hope to get these cut to the VIN, I've had the dealer do several I bought there, they haven't been easy to work with. I've heard that locksmiths can cut to a VIN, haven't tried that.
My theory did indeed work! Having the all metal key and key shell key on the same key ring is all that is necessary. It starts no matter where the key shell lies. If it's hanging down, it still starts. I find that the key shell fits naturally in my hand as I turn the metal key, and that works too. I posted pics of my new key in this post:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/388841-permanent-solution-weak-key-shell-problem.html
After mine broke (100,000 mi) I picked up a new shell on ebay as well as a solid transponder key (valet key). A local locksmith charged me a buck for the cuts and threw the money in the coffee pool.
The transponder only needs to be near the ignition for starting, not running. You can program the transponder keys yourself. I don't remember the formula, but if you search, it's here.
Land Cruiser is the same.
The transponder only needs to be near the ignition for starting, not running. You can program the transponder keys yourself. I don't remember the formula, but if you search, it's here.
Keep in mind you can only program the transponder yourself on 99-00 vehicles. 2001+ they need to be programmed by the Toyota dealer computer. The good news is that also means the 2001+ don't suffer from the possible lost keys and requiring a new ECU issue.
Car wash guy broke my key this weekend. That is the 2nd key to have now broken in less 10 than days.
Dont understand how I can drive it everyday and have no issues and each time someone else has tried to start it, they break the key.
Ordered 2 of ebay and at least I have the electronics for both keys.
Now going to make a straight metal key for the car wash and mechanic and just leave the transponder next to the ignitiion whenever someone else is going to driver it.
Dont understand how I can drive it everyday and have no issues and each time someone else has tried to start it, they break the key.
Ordered 2 of ebay and at least I have the electronics for both keys.
Now going to make a straight metal key for the car wash and mechanic and just leave the transponder next to the ignitiion whenever someone else is going to driver it.
Thread revival!
I just took my Cruiser to the car wash (what an experience... never doing that again) and they managed to break my key. Has anybody found a stronger key than OEM? Possibly a metal case or something? Somebody should start manufacturing a replacement shell made of metal.
I just took my Cruiser to the car wash (what an experience... never doing that again) and they managed to break my key. Has anybody found a stronger key than OEM? Possibly a metal case or something? Somebody should start manufacturing a replacement shell made of metal.
My new OEM was considerably stronger than older case I had. They actually modded it!
I buy the shells 4 at a time, have them all cut at once, and keep them as spares. When one breaks, replace with new. Given the last four were less than $15 with shipping, its a workable proposition. Its a closed issue for me.
I gave up on the keys with the built in remote after I broke my 3rd one and dropped the transponder on the ground. I bought 2 camry keys off eBay and had them cut for free at the dealer. Programmed them myself. My remote keys still work too, so in effect I have 4 masters, but I leave both of them in a kitchen drawer. So I don't Have keyless entry anymore, but I don't have to worry about getting a new ecu if I lose my key either.
Did you have to buy the entire key from Toyota? If so, how much was it? If I'm not mistaken its above $270 for one, correct?
My 2 cents, unless you are buying keys from a reliable source that is other than OEM, it's probably just worth it to buy the OEM case. Some of the aftermarket shanks have straight ends (where the jagged portion starts) that don't always work with the ignitions. When I worked at a dealer, we'd have people bring in aftermarket key cases, they'd pay the dealer $10 to cut it, and the key wouldn't go in the ignition. And they'd end up buying a OEM key in the end.
And don't super glue your key together and expect to get it apart later to put a new key case on it.
And don't super glue your key together and expect to get it apart later to put a new key case on it.
Never seen this problem, and that's after maybe 6 non-OEM shells [still with Denso numbers, CE stamp, sombrero etc] from three different vendors. My local locksmith cuts them and the fit perfectly. Every time. For around $4 a piece. The blank [uncut] blades are angle cut at the end, same as oem. Even if the blade end was straight cut, I suspect a locksmith could angle cut them to match the original.