Another 80 with huge tires

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NCJeff,

I don't have that steering issue with mine. I had an alignment with my 35s and Js - and I don't know if that has any carry over effect onto these with the Slee 6 and XMLs.

I can easily drive with 1 hand with my truck. If I let the steering wheel go (no hands) it will drift to the left, but its not fighting me while Im driving at all.

The change to the big tires makes more road noise - but the Slee 6" springs is a much softer, less jarring ride over bumps of any kind.

Can you record a short video or have someone record one of you driving and the steering wheel to show what issues you're having?

NCJeff, aren't you getting control arms later? If you haven't fixed caster at all on those 6" springs you are way negative and it's going to wander to say the least. That's lift, not tires, although I wouldn't expect great things out of a tire like that for road manners.
 
I run the Michelin XL's and am very happy with them. They work for the wheeling that I do on the East Coast. If they loose traction on our New England granite I will take the time to pull my winch line instead of using heavy throttle and risk blowing a birf.
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TiredIron is right, they are not the best at side hold. That is how my rear quarter panel was modified. I slid into a nice oak tree while wheeling in Central Maine.
 
Went to the local "mall" . They did great in the mud.

To say they rubbed would be an understatement, but I dont worry about articulation, Southeast NC is flat as a pancake.
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Like most military tires I found them on Ebay. They were around $125.00 plus $40.00 each for shipping delivered to my door by FedEx. They were brand new when I bought them.
 
Are you located in Wilmington?? I am in Wilmington and would hope to see you out at Carolina Beach sometime! Send me a email when your out that way.


Tim
 
Not to mention the Upstate Cruisers and NC cruisers have meetings and events and all of you guys can go on wheeling trips in the 80s with us! More 80s!
 
For flat-land NC sand and mud, I think you picked a fine tire. And you can always just spend $50 for Slee front bumpstop drops and make some for the rear to get rid of the rubbing, and be done with it. Maybe in the fall I can meet up with you Wilmington guys when I go visit friends down there.
 
wait - did you do any rear of front fender well trimming?

I couldn't even turn to pull out of the parking lot when I first had the tires mounted on the Js.

Even with the Slee6 springs, I'd imagine you rub pretty heavily behind the front wheels...

A baby sledge fixed that for me.
 
Anyone take a grooving iron to XLs or XMLs to improve flexibility and traction? Grooving irons are a pretty inexpensive way to modify your tread and since you have no warranty on those tires give it a try. It should help both off road and wet road grip.

Grooving Iron
 
Cut depth can be altered. It's been a while since I looked at the XLs on my dad's Mog but the 14.00x20s have ~1" of tread depth new which IIRC is more than than new 9.00x16 XLs or 325/85/16 XMLs, certainly in the used tire market. Grooving will make a difference you just need to design a pattern and start removing rubber. Are all the guys grooving Swamper's and Krawler's nuts? If it'll help an already flexible tire it'll certainly help something stiffer.

So what you're saying is after all the $$$$ you've sunk into your suspension and two sets of tires (XLs & Boggers) you couldn't justify ~$60 for a grooving iron, blades and a blade holder to at least give it a try? Unless you've cut your tires how can you say it won't work, sounds like pure speculation and web wheeling at its best.

This old boy is tuning up a Swamper but the video shows how to groove a tire. Skip the initial flaming of the tire and let your iron heat up unless you are a pyro.

Grooving a Swamper
 
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