Anemic heater

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It's working perfectly after the fix! Maintains 72F cabin temp easy.

The one thing I did notice, not related to this, is that the rear overhead vents don't produce much heat even with rear AC on hot, overhead, and high fan. Is this typical? I can roast marshmellows on the rear lower, but not the overhead.
 
Yes, just disconnected. I think the PO had the panel off and the hose slipped off. There's plenty of slack, just have to be careful.

It's super easy to get to:

- The black trim piece at the bottom of the instruments just pops back and off.
- The lower trim also pops forward and down from the top. There's a single screw lower-left by the gas filler release.

I could do it in probably 3 minutes (R&R) now that I know how all the parts fit.
 
Took the Panel off, My hose was still connected to the sensor, I really have no idea what's going on with it. My rear air on the bottom gets SUPER HOT, everywhere else in the car gets sort of luke-warm. :confused: maybe the groundhog will cut winter short this year....
 
Yep, I'm in this club too. Still doing initial testing to determine if its the front heater core or the mixer door actuation. The mixer servo is working nicely, but I need to confirm that the heater core door is actually moving as it should.
 
this observation may or may not be helpful... my problem seemed a little different, the passenger floor heat was adequate for the passenger, but my driver floor heat was way sub adequate to the point my feet were freezing in some conditions... and i had to constantly adjust the knob temperature control and it sometimes (often) did not seem to do anything. when i poked my head down in the DS floor well, I noticed that the carpet was partially covering the vent. i folded the carpet down to completely expose the vent and my problem seems to have been solved. i think that the DS vent was not pushing enough hot air relative to the rest of the cabin vents, and since the thermister is near the drivers right knee, it was screwing up the logic. make sense? anyhow, check that your carpet is not covering the DS floor vent.
 
after thinking about OregonLCs pics in post 19, i just had to know if my hose was connected, so i got in there to confirm. it was connected, but when i pulled the thermister out for inspection, the element was very dirty, much worse than any MAF i've seen, it looked like it had a thick even coat of fuzz over the entire element. so i flooded it with CRC electronics cleaner, we'll see if that makes any further difference in maintaining cabin temp.
 
It looks like one or more of the air mixer doors may be the problem.
The Air Mix Servo appears to be working fine, but I suspect that one of the actuating arms that it drives may be broken. Tried to get the servo out from the pass side floor, but access to the third and final screw was difficult. I'll have another shot at it in the daylight.

Here's a pic of the servo. I couldn't find a diagram showing the layout of the arms that are driven by the servo, but the pin highlighted below looks a lot like it should have an arm connected.
- Anyone have a diagram or a pic of the servo that shows if an arm should be connected to this pin?
AirMixServo_1999.webp
 
The parts diagrams I've found so far are useless. No detail on the heater unit door actuators system at all. FSM does not seem to have this detail either. All I really need is a similar model and 30 seconds to look up behind the pass side console to see if there is an actuating arm on the pin in the pic above.
 
Looking for a volunteer to stick a cell phone camera down in the foot well beside the console on the pass side and take a pic of the air mix servo. Looks like this is the only way to confirm that there should [or should not] be an arm on this pin.
I'll send a case of your favorite beer in return ;)
AirMixServo_1999.webp
 
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Are you saying that you think something else should be connected directly to the pin you marked? Looking at your pic it looks like the white arm pivots with the shaft going into the plastic background and that the actuating arm for that is the metallic part going down to the left. Is that latter one not connected to something?
 
Are you saying that you think something else should be connected directly to the pin you marked? Looking at your pic it looks like the white arm pivots with the shaft going into the plastic background and that the actuating arm for that is the metallic part going down to the left. Is that latter one not connected to something?

Its an artifact of the camera angle. The white arm is entirely independent of the pin I marked. There's a few mm of vertical clearance between the white arm and the pin. The pin is driven, which makes me think the arm may have failed here.

There is very little heat coming into the cabin, which looks like its due to an air mix door problem. That's how I came to be hanging upside down in the pass foot well looking at this.
 
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Its an artifact of the camera angle. The white arm is entirely independent of the pin I marked. There's a few mm of vertical clearance between the white arm and the pin. The pin is driven, which makes me think the arm may have failed here.

There is very little heat coming into the cabin, which looks like its due to an air mix door problem. That's how I came to be hanging upside down in the pass foot well looking at this.

OK, that's clearer now. There is no hole in the white arm that the pin can get into or indication that there was a bracket of some sort that would couple the 2?
Also, could you move the white arm by hand and see if you get more heat?
 
Khaos, what year is yours?
 
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