..And so it begins.... my BJ40 frame off restoration (1 Viewer)

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Update: Frame number on the firewall plate matches the frame number etched into the frame. If the plate on the firewall had been attached to the firewall with screws, I would be suspect about a tub/plate switch. In this instance however it is attached by rivets. It appears to have been there since the rig was born. The trim and paint description matches the few remaining patches of the original paint that I have been able to uncover on the firewall, and in other odd, hard to reach parts of the tub. I am one of the most skeptical guys out there and I will always remain open to and investigate any indication of hoodwinkery ( it is getting late :D) but all of the available evidence seems now to point to that this is the original tub on the original frame. Not to disparage an entire country but in working with law enforcement here in my day job the crooks and there schemes here just are not that creative and never do their modern day schemes go to such a level of detail as popping off the plate switching tubs and riveting it back through the exact same holes in the new tub leaving behind paint to match the plate. This goes double for scams that were run back in the day. Again just because I'm a curious/stubborn cuss I will have the guys at the metal shop run a gauge on it when we can get the rig in for its refit. Henry James the 47th, I really want to thank you for your attention to detail and for the information re: the date of manufacture as I was wondering which year parts to order. Some of the bits are from pre 80 to 80 and others give an option of 81-83. As such my question to all, when did Toyota release their new model years, in August, September, October , November or December of a given year. Given that per the production codes ( kudos again to HJ's good eyes and great reference work) my bet is that this rig was manufactured during the change over on the assembly line, hence the tub looking like it is an earlier model year than 80 but it was the first to get a bath in the 81-83 paint schemes. Whatever the case apart from the stubborn sleuth in me my immediate concern is which part year do I order if I am given a choice, 80 or 81?

P.S. My GF says that this is the best example she has seen of what in the antique world is called provenance. Per she who must be paid attention to :D, antique dealers go through this exercise all the time when confronted by an odd example of a baroque desk etc. They pull it apart comparing the wood at the back of the drawers, the makers marks, checking years listed on bills of sale against old sales catalogs and dates of workshop operation. While
I find the comparison between car enthusiasts and antique dealers a little jarring at this hour, I see her point. I am still relatively new to this site but I really appreciate how many quality folks there are here who really try to help a fella out. It amazes me how much you guys pitch in with great info and really on point suggestions and how tos. Many, many thanks.:clap::cheers:
 
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One thing you will need to keep in mind is that the models meant for different places can have a wide varity of part on them. I have had an 88 FJ62 here in Mongolia that had a points distributor (pre 1976 I believe) on the 3f engine but carbed no injection. Had front drum brakes with two cylinders each side like the 40's but stock 62 rear drums.

Now I have a 92 RJ77 which is another 3rd world model with a 22R carbed engine again points distributor (with a different cap than any ever seen in North America).

Getting the right parts is real detective work but the internet and mud are your friends.

Marlow
 
One thing you will need to keep in mind is that the models meant for different places can have a wide varity of part on them. I have had an 88 FJ62 here in Mongolia that had a points distributor (pre 1976 I believe) on the 3f engine but carbed no injection. Had front drum brakes with two cylinders each side like the 40's but stock 62 rear drums.

Now I have a 92 RJ77 which is another 3rd world model with a 22R carbed engine again points distributor (with a different cap than any ever seen in North America).

Getting the right parts is real detective work but the internet and mud are your friends.

Marlow

Marlow,
Thanks for the good word. I am finding that Mud is truly the right place to be. I am curious what your experience has been getting parts shipped to you in Mongolia. What method works best, postal service, overland freight, etc? What kind of lag times are you seeing between ordering and arrival. (Obviously that will differ from region to region but just to get an idea.) Lastly, have you developed a list of suppliers in the U.S. or elsewhere who get the international freight shipping thing right? If so that would save me a boatload of time as I could spend time ordering parts from guys who will actually ship it to me. Thanks. :cheers:
 
I have mostly used postal service for small stuff or tried to find people coming in who I could ship things to in the US or Austraila or Canada for them to carry in their luggage. As I work for an International organization we have a lot of people coming in. I did get coil springs shipped from Dobinsons in Australia by post took 3 weeks and cost as much as the springs themselves but oh well. Dobinsons were good to deal with. 4wheelauto in Edmonton, Alberta are ok too. cruiserparts.net in the US has been good as well (they shipped by US postal service I think it was only 3 weeks). I have only used SOR for stuff sent inside the US.
That is about all I know.
 
I have mostly used postal service for small stuff or tried to find people coming in who I could ship things to in the US or Austraila or Canada for them to carry in their luggage. As I work for an International organization we have a lot of people coming in. I did get coil springs shipped from Dobinsons in Australia by post took 3 weeks and cost as much as the springs themselves but oh well. Dobinsons were good to deal with. 4wheelauto in Edmonton, Alberta are ok too. cruiserparts.net in the US has been good as well (they shipped by US postal service I think it was only 3 weeks). I have only used SOR for stuff sent inside the US.
That is about all I know.

Great info, thanks:clap:
 
It also looks like you need a knuckle rebuild kit for that last photo, looks like mine that needs attention. Nice cruiser by the way, wish mine were diesel! Good luck :beer:
 
I tried to be good and post this in the paint and body sub forum but no responses so I'm gonna post a part of that post here as it has to do with my build. "Is anyone here familiar with a Sherwin Williams product called Aqualock. I visited the shop that is going to do the breakdown and rebuild of my new baby. I spoke to the master painter who had just finished a 65 Scout a few minutes earlier and was on a break. He said that once they sand and clean the frame they use the product called Aqualock made by Sherwin Williams to coat it." I tried to look this up on the Sherwin site and got nowhere but could just be looking in the wrong place or it has a different name in the U.S. Anyone have any info out there? Thanks.:cheers:
 
Update

Hi guys, here is an update. I have been parts shopping online. I have bought more parts for this project than I purchased for all other cars that I have ever owned combined! Here is the new parts breakdown thus far:
Steering:
Not presently considering power steering, future project. Looking for suggestions on good steering arms and steering stabilizers for a 4" lift. Will run 33s

Suspension:
Went with SOR 4" lift package incl. leafs and Pro Comp twin tube Explorer extended shocks, red shock boots and all shackles bushings, U bolts etc.

Brakes: In addition to having the existing 28yo discs and drums and parts swapped out for new, I got the extended steel braided brake cables front and back

Exterior:
In addition to taking the frame off and sending the body to the shop for a long earned, well deserved clean up, rust repair and paint I bought a **** load of crap to replace missing emblems, pedals, and door locks and door hardware. (Can't seem to find the replacement mechanism box that sits inside the big square space inside of my ambulance door.) Also bought replacement lenses for tail lights, bolts and weather stripping for the roof and doors. (still need to get some for the front windows but the rear windows are still in good shape.)

Interior:
Need some help on dash gauges. I could swear that I saw a replica replacement for the standard in dash set (all shot). Does anyone know what I'm talking about and have a link? Hopefully tomorrow I will take the time to sit down and map out the placement of other in dash gauges and buttons ( can't seem to find the dang glow plug screen anywhere.) Last on gauges and sender units which is better mechanical or electrical? Intuitively seems like simple is always better and mechanical, les prone to breakdown but I don't know and welcome suggestions and views.
I was scratching my head on what to do about heat and AC. I have a factory AC in cab unit but it is bulky and has no heat which I will need when I get back to USA. I spotted a combo in cab under the dash heat/ defroster and AC unit that looks much better suited to my limited space.(next week)
Got lucky on the seats, all original seat hardware in good shape so I'm gonna have them the hardware sanded and painted and the seats reupholstered.

Engine:
After much debate (thanks to all who took the time to give me their views) gonna stick with the original B, get it rebuilt, until I can get my hands on a 13 BT. I have been looking but they are not easy to find. When the 13 BT comes along I can then crate the B and save it for a rainy day.

Drive Train:
After much debate (again thanks for the input) I am gonna pick up an H55f tranny next week. I decided to jump on this when I saw one available. Obviously the 5th gear is with an eye to the future when I get the 13 BT ( factory equipped turbo). I gotta get the drive shafts as well :bang:

Next weeks purchases: tranny, H/AC unit and windshield washer motor, nozzle , tank and plumbing.

Right now my biggest concern is shipping all of this crap. Anybody had success with U.S. based shipping agent/ freight forwarder. Get me the names and tell them that you know a guy who needs to get a container full of crap onto a boat heading south. :clap:
 
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Update

It has been awhile since I have been able to sit still between business trips and general running around. Present status:
1) My crap load of parts ordered from CCOT has been shipped and is en route
2) My smaller crap load of parts from SOR has been ordered and is en route
3) H/AC/defroster unit ordered from Nostalgic Air is en route but have to check their shipping date.
4) Tranny purchase will wait a few weeks until I see the first few shipments show up smoothly and can pay off some bills.
5) dual battery setup has jumped right to the head of the line of first mods after the body work and frame, suspension and brakes are done. The reason is simple, the rig wouldn't start two days ago. I pulled the PO supplied leaky battery and put in a new one and we were back in business. Those two days with no ride made me focus on the fact that there is no AAA here, I haven't seen one in most countries that I have traveled in ( Argentina exception), and won't be one on the trail. I am not one to plan to depend on the kindness of strangers if I get stuck. While I'm sure that in most countries if I sit by the side of the road long enough and look sad enough some kid will stop and agree to get help, in the form of his uncle and a truck. I've decided that I'm building some self help into this rig NOW.As such since I have the space under the hood, a fellow mudder has already done up a nice dual battery rack. I'm building in a dual battery system, where one batt handles normal rig support duties and the other handles, winch, audio, aux power for radio, lap tops, cell phone chargers etc. and in a pinch can be switched on to handle a start up whe it's brother has a bad day. I am still looking for wiring diagrams to control the setup from inside of the cab so any help in that regard would be appreciated.

Given that writing this should be as much about what I learn as it is about helping others avoid my mistakes lessons learned thus far have been:
Shipping:
a)If you are gonna attempt to do a rebuild outside of one of the mainstream Cruiser countries, USA, Canada, AUS, NZ, Japan, etc. organize your shipping with precision first. you need to figure out exactly how stuff is going to get from Texas, Idaho, or where ever to your doorstep.
b)once you figure out the shipping mechanism, factor in cost of shipping into your overall project budget. Beware that the cost of some methods can be as much or more than the cost of the actual part.
c) Unlike other countries that I have been in , there really doesn't seem to be a specialty parts shops that caters to 4x4 needs. This makes it difficult for a guy like me , who is only here for 2 years, to find the local ARB, OME, POR distributors. I will have to go through my mechanic to find them if they exist. If they don't more crap to order and ship here.:bang:

I have already met with the owner of the restoration shop and gone over the vehicle with a fine tooth comb. We will meet again this week to take it on a test drive. He suspects that the rig will overheat so we will take it out on the highway up into the mountains and down the other side and back to test that out. I hope to test the 4WD out then as well.
 
Good to hear you got it started again-
I put my shiny renewed starter motor in today, turned it over a few times (without starting) and then.... Click.... Click.... Click...:bang::D:mad:

the new battery is flat. So it is out and I am going to give it a good 2-3 day charge.
I have half pulled off the dash and have wires everywhere trying to figure out the wiring for my windscreen washer, fix the manual EDIC choke/kill switch, and sort out a few other things.
Found out my priming pump is leaking- have to get a new one..
Also a bit bummed that one of my two new indicator lights I just got sent has a crooked mount- that cannot be fixed...
Got it from roodogs on ebay- so I have just contacted him to see if he can do anything about it (have already given positive feedback...)

Good Luck,
Hans.
 
Good to hear you got it started again-
I put my shiny renewed starter motor in today, turned it over a few times (without starting) and then.... Click.... Click.... Click...:bang::D:mad:

the new battery is flat. So it is out and I am going to give it a good 2-3 day charge.
I have half pulled off the dash and have wires everywhere trying to figure out the wiring for my windscreen washer, fix the manual EDIC choke/kill switch, and sort out a few other things.
Found out my priming pump is leaking- have to get a new one..
Also a bit bummed that one of my two new indicator lights I just got sent has a crooked mount- that cannot be fixed...
Got it from roodogs on ebay- so I have just contacted him to see if he can do anything about it (have already given positive feedback...)

Good Luck,
Hans.

Hans,
I am absolutely no expert in things under the hood but from limited working on electrics in other areas and a vague memory of physics class, it is starting to sound like there is a load on your battery, something drawing it down, even though the vehicle is off and not running. This like the third new battery you've gone through. Maybe you want to take a look at anything the PO added to the car's basic electrical system or any re-wiring he did. Could be that something has been wired to get juice directly from the battery that should be getting juice only when the key is turned. Maybe you or somebody can go over the rig's electrics with a multimeter and see if anything is still hot and drawing juice even though the vehicle is off and parked.

Funny that you mentioned the dash. Only one of the guages on my instrument cluster work and according to the PO have ever worked in his time.They are also too small, poorly positioned and lit for me to read while driving or at night. I was thinking about upgrading the guages but CCOT wants you to send in the whole instrument cluster in with proof of authenticity which I simply dont have time to do. Instead I found a mudder who has made a new powder coated instrument cluster panel to fit the original dash cutout. It comes with a variety of guage configurations and finishes. You get the new panel from him, buy the guages and senders to fit your selected configuration and hook it all up. Gonna try to see if I can find someplace that sells the guages locally if not...more crap to have shipped in. Let me know how your indicator light problem gets resolved as I need a couple of those too.:cheers:
 
You might be right there-
I am going to get a little help with a multimeter soon (damned if I know how to use them:hillbilly:).

But, this most recent new battery (the second one) has done a whole lot of glow-pluging and starting (with some light testing and some stereo playing) with very very little running. It does have an excuse for being low.
It still had power enough for most things... just barely enough to turn it over.

I've started removing some of the extra wiring the PO had put in for a second amp (like one isn't enough:confused:)- but this wasn't even connected to the battery.

I thought about these lights from Hong Kong-
pretty cheap
DSC07843.JPG

eBay Motors: Toyota FJ40 FJ45 BJ42 Land Cruiser Amber signal lights (item 150242896880 end time May-12-08 07:18:20 PDT)
but I ended up going for Roodogs 'Jap Brand' lights thinking they would be better quality.
These are the ones I bought
8233_1.JPG
825d_1.JPG

LANDCRUISER 40 SERIES FRONT INDICATORS (2) JAP BRAND, - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 28-May-08 11:08:15 AEST)

Its a bit late for me to be voicing issues (I gave positive feedback before I found out about the crooked mount)- but just now replying to you I have found a couple of other things that annoy me.

I had already noticed they were made in Taiwan- fair enough I thought, 'Jap Brand' may very well be made in Taiwan.
But the brand on the box 'Lucid Auto Lamp' doesn't google to Japan:rolleyes:.
The base of these ones I got has the proper angle that the other cheaper ones don't have, but it would be possible to use your old bases (if you have them) on the new lamps (like I might have to do if I don't get this one replaced)

I am not overly impressed with the casting quality of this lamp- and the bases of mine do not include the the black (rubber I assume) gasket thing pictured.

I'll try to contact Roodogs again about this- and hopefully my concerns are dealt with.
I have only heard good things about the business so far so don't want' to bad mouth it.
I really should have taken more time and care before I threw away my feedback bargaining chip though.
 
Hans, don't feel bad, as many parts as I am ordering from all over the place this bound to happen to everyone. As a back-up for you, just in case Roodogs doesn't do the right thing, here are some other lights from CCOT Turn Signals
They are not cheap and folks have varying experiences with them and some of their policies but I have only heard that their parts are quality, at least I hope so given how many bits and bobs I've ordered from them.:meh: Let me know How the multi meter testing goes. BTW so far so good the new battery cranked the engine over and everything went fine today. Again funny you mentioned wiring but I was looking at SOR wiring replacement kits just this morning...what is it they say about great minds.:cheers:
 
Let me say one thing about Roodogs-
they are champions. (I am sorry if I implied otherwise)
I see why they have their good reputation. (finally I've found some good internet sellers- after a bad run of experiences this year).

First thing this morning two replies to me-
One from the guy responsible (who accidently sent me the taiwanese ones), and then one from maybe the boss- they are sending me out a new set of proper Japanese ones- and I am to simply keep this Taiwanese set as spares (gratis).:cheers:

Other good news- they have the primer pump I need (mine is leaking) and I will be getting another set of plugs (just in case).


Cheers Roodogs-
even though I have yet to see these new Japanese lamps- They have more than earned my respect and return of business.

Gotta run,
Hans.
 
Let me say one thing about Roodogs-
they are champions. (I am sorry if I implied otherwise)
I see why they have their good reputation. (finally I've found some good internet sellers- after a bad run of experiences this year).

First thing this morning two replies to me-
One from the guy responsible (who accidently sent me the taiwanese ones), and then one from maybe the boss- they are sending me out a new set of proper Japanese ones- and I am to simply keep this Taiwanese set as spares (gratis).:cheers:

Other good news- they have the primer pump I need (mine is leaking) and I will be getting another set of plugs (just in case).


Cheers Roodogs-
even though I have yet to see these new Japanese lamps- They have more than earned my respect and return of business.

Gotta run,
Hans.

Nice:bounce: I'm glad that it worked out. Send me a link for these guys when you get a chance.:cheers:
 
Update: First parts shipment arrived!

I really know that this is not such a big deal but I have been feeling like this project got bogged down in parts sourcing parts and dealing with shipping and customs and freight forwarders. As such the arrival of my replacement my replacement halogen headlights was like Christmas. Of course as I was going out to install them I noticed that in addition to the connection for the three pronged connector there are two short wires, red and black which pop out from the back of each unit. No instructions were included so I have written back to the seller to have him send me the insructions. Thanks again for all of the help.
 
More Stuff!!!

...It's startin to feel a lot like Christmas....:bounce2::bounce2::bounce2:
(except when I read the sales receipts and invoices). Today the combo A/C and heat unit kit arrived. I decided to go with this one even though I have a factory A/C unit because of design, thinner and wider under the dash unit than the stock one and because it included the heater and defroster plumbing and parts as well. I took a couple of pics of the in cab unit. The kit comes from Nostalgic Air and includes:
Compressor with the mount kit
Condenser with the mount kit
Drier with straps
binary saftey switch
evaporator unit with expansion valve and mounting hardware
Drain tube with tee
heater control valve with cable
heater line block off plate
firewall block off plate with grommets
Hose to plumb the unit and assorted screws, nuts bolts and washers. Below are a few pics of the new stuff.
:bounce:
 

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