Builds And so it begins...My '13 LX 570 Buildup...Help me! (4 Viewers)

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Joined
Jun 17, 2005
Threads
48
Messages
841
Location
Maryville, TN
Hey guys,

I've had a ton of Toyota's I've built over the years, have a current JKU that's pretty much a trailer queen now on 38's and setup for crawling, and I've recently purchased this Black 2013 LX 570 to be a more mild family hauler to some of our favorite places in the country like Moab, Silverton, Lake City, Ouray, Telluride...Alpine Loop areas, so something more mild, but I rarely do mild builds lol. I usually go off the deep end with all aspects of it with hardcore rock crawling being our go to choice when out on the trails.

BUT...I need your help to convince not to do this with this build and keep it as stock but capable as possible, but as comfortable as it is now with the stock AHC ride quality. So, to begin, here's all I've decided thus far:

1) 1.5" NST Body Lift
2) TKO Angled Sliders with heavy duty 3/16" AHC guards thanks to Jason Well's feedback, and we appear to wheel similarly.
3) Powerbrake BBK and Rear Replacement Rotors
4) Redarc Trail Brake Controller
5) I did take it to Finishing Touch in Maryville, TN where we live and have them 1-step paint correct it and ceramic coat it...difference was huge. I think only cost $895.

Here's pics of it in stock form...had 155K miles on it when I bought it a few months ago. So, my request is to get help from all you 200 series experts on how you'd build it, what parts are best, and what to stay away from. I have many ideas and like to do things differently to experiment and push the limits usually, but not sure I want to go this route this time around or not...but maybe lol. Not really concerned with the money side of it, more what's the best options out there. We'll take this vehicle cross country, probably tow a small enclosed ATC toy hauler with our RZR Turbo S, my son's dirtbike, and maybe our Single Seat RZR depending on who's going with us. Might use my F-450 to tow all of it too on a bigger trailer, so just depends what our trip plans look like. But, I want it to be versatile yet very capable without getting insane I guess.

Here's some thoughts I've had:

- Could I make a Dirt King Tundra Long Travel work and get the rear end to match similarly in track width somehow without stupidly big wheel spacers...custom wheels with different offsets maybe?

- I know I want to run 37x12.50R18 Maxxis RZR MT's for tires

- I've got two options for completely custom wheels, either ML Forged (Most Likely) or 9and3 wheels once I figure out suspension

- I'd like to keep AHC, but probably will need to swap to heavier springs to compensate for the increase in load on the AHC shocks. And the beauty of running the Dirt King setup is if I feel the dampening sucks, I could add a secondary bypass shocks

- Not sure what's available for long-traveling the rear, if anything at all for these rigs, but something will need to be done to try to reasonably match the track width up front if I end up going that route

- I don't mind fender trimming, body mount chops, etc, but if I do, I'll weld in completely new fender liners and then likely do a small lip of line-x around the fenders to finish it out like I did years ago on my LX 450. The flip side would be to just run as tight a positive offset as possible and trim as little as possible to fit the 37's and forget about all that extra work. The problem is knowing my wheeling style, if I have no poke, my body will get shredded most likely by rocks despite having sliders. I just know even if it's mild, I'll run the Rubicon and probably most of the trails in Moab in it still...luckily body damage out there is usually avoidable for the most part, outside of a few trails.

- Axle Gearing and Lockers...leaning towards ARB's front and rear and 5.29's...I like really low gearing for crawling...or should I slap Wearwolf portals on it or 74 Weld if they come out and have a good gear reduction lol? The struggle is real trying to decide knowing how I wheel lol.

- Bumpers...really like the minimalist approach of E&E Offroad's Rear Bumper: Low Profile Bumper | E&E Off-Road - https://www.ee-offroading.com/product-page/low-profile-bumper but also really like Dissent's bumpers with all the various things I can carry, etc. But, weight is already an issue with these pigs...probably don't really need a spare if I bring gluetreads and the like to repair the tires, if needed. But, I haven't cut or sliced a tire in 15 years, so thinking no spare for this build. I wish they also made a minimalist front bumper, as well...no idea what I want to run up front yet, but I know I'll need a winch, so what to choose here?

- Roof racks...I've never ran one, never needed one, but we might slap a rooftop tent up there, we might not. I'm not sure yet...not opposed to carrying some lightweight gear up top, but nothing heavy knowing how much it affects the off-camber wheeling. No idea what's best here and why.

- Skids...I really like the idea of running E&E's skids then cutting UHMW to put on the bottoms of them so it slides and does gouge the aluminum skids. I think that's the ideal combo, but nothing exists like that. The flip side is to run a full set of Bud Built aluminum skids and do the same thing with the UHMW. E&E is willing to give me the cad file to send to Factory UTV to cut the UHMW for me precisely, and I've asked Bud Built if they'd be willing to do the same, but I've not heard back from them yet.

- Auxilary Fuel Tank - I'm assuming LRA is the only option, then what size to go with. I know I don't want the big one, because it hangs down so low, so probably guessing the middle one.

- I like Garage Alpha's front grill, but it's been out of stock since I've found it a few months ago, but I'd like to run that since mine is so faded...looks like crap right now

- My son wants to wrap the whole truck when we're done in an army green, leaving bumpers and accents in black, which I think would look cool. All the chrome will go when that happens.

So, that's the extent of the thoughts I've put into it thus far. I welcome the feedback, logic, expertise of all you fellow wheelers to help me not waste money, but also pick the best of the best products and help me reason through why I should go a certain route or not. On my previous LX 450 build, I built the beginnings of the front and rear bumpers super high and tight, which I've considered doing for this too, but I'm just so limited on time compared to back in the day that it's probably not a great idea at this point.

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So, the first thing we did is the paint correction, then I had a local shop I've used for years, Mountaineer Imports in Maryville, TN install the Powerbrake Big Brake Kit and rear replacement rotors and pads. The difference in braking feel and performance is truly night and day. I reviewed all the options for BBK's for this vehicle, and Powerbrake specializes in off-road BBK's for a variety of common off-road and/or overland vehicles. And their billet aluminum parts are unmatched by anyone else in the industry. They're lighter, bigger, and have rotors designed for optimal airflow and heat dissipation unlike anything else on the market. I had originally planned to do the install myself, but ran out of time and just had the shop knock it out, but overall I'm very impressed with the quality and performance of the new brakes. They max out the front rotor size as much as possible but to still be able to run a 18" wheel, which is awesome by shaving areas of the caliper to make it fit without having to run 20's.

Front Kit: Lexus LX570 X-Line (08-15) - Powerbrake USA - https://powerbrake.us/product/lexus-lx570-08-15/

Rear Kit: LX570 Rear D-Line Kit (08-21) - REAR - Powerbrake USA - https://powerbrake.us/product/lx570-rear-d-line-kit-08-21-rear/

Plus, the guys at Powerbrake give you their cell numbers in case you have any questions at all. They're very available to help anytime you need it, which is super nice. I went with the grey finish...don't love a lot of flash, and they look great.

Chris

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Next in line is I've started tearing down my 2013 LX 570 to install the 1.5" body lift from Micah at NST Spec. So far no issues. I sprayed all the body mount bolts from the top and bottom to start, then came back the next afternoon and all of them came right out no problem. I disconnected the radiator shroud's 4 bolts, loosened the driver's side and completely removed the nuts from the passenger side. Today I'll raise up the passenger side and begin installing the pucks. But, otherwise, pretty simple disassembly so far, and Micah quickly answered some questions I had before lifting. But I'm going to lift slowly without releasing the front passenger wheel well bolt he mentions, the steering linkage, and the gear shifter to see how it goes and whether or not it's needed or not to do. He did say I'll need to release and retighten the gear shifter from underneath once it's lifted, but that should be quick and easy.

I'm unclear how the rear bumper that surrounds the steel frame/hitch will be able to be raised without cutting the entire bottom of it off...maybe I'm missing something on that process lol, but I thought I read through all his thread pretty well. :) I'm also unclear why the foam needs trimmed up front if we're moving up the entire aluminum frame piece 1.5" to compensate for the lift...shouldn't it just fit right under the bumper like normal again? I still have some more reading to do in his thread to clarify those things, but so far so good on the disassembly.

Chris

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Not much else to report yet...yesterday I bought some jacks to place under the pinch welds, so I'll use the lift to raise the whole truck frame, then place the jacks under the pinch welds, then lower the lift slightly to create the 2" gap to slide the pucks into place, then raise the lift again to put full weight and tighten. Then I'm guessing I'll loosen them a tad again so they'll move un-binded when I begin to raise the driver's side. It's been years since I've done a body lift, but seems logical to me at this point lol. Wish me luck...lol.

Chris

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Based on your initial post and progress, you might not want to hear this. I will just say and if you do not like just ignore it. Reading your initial description "mild family hauler to some of our favorite places in the country like Moab, Silverton, Lake City, Ouray, Telluride...Alpine Loop areas, so something more mild..." planned for this rig, if I were you, I would just start with wheels, tires and sliders. You did breaks - which is good. The rest of the money you are planning to spend on the more "rock crawling side of things" in your other posts, I would spend in remedying that rust, especially if your frame looks anything (or worse) like that rear crossmember/trailer hitch in your pictures. These are very very very capable vehicles from the factory, but rust is the cancer-Achilles heel of them. Just my 2 cents. 👍
 
Good feedback...the rest of the frame looks really good, but I'll tend to that for sure as I get into things. I don't usually do mild, so just knowing myself, but I respect your feedback and appreciate it. It's a good point. Maybe I do the protection, slap the 37's on it and see how she does without all the extra expense. Not a bad idea...never had crawl control in any of my previous yota's, but I have seen it work amazingly well in Tacoma's my buddies have had.

Chris
 
you’ve probably seen this, but if not, there are 5 pages of build thread posts in this link that may give you ideas……

 
Did a couple more hours on the body lift tonight, and got all the pucks and bolts and nuts and washers into place and it resting on it's own weight on the frame again. Tomorrow or the next day I'll begin tightening everything down, mess with the radiator brackets, and then begin figuring out the bumper mods. I did break the nut off the crossmember behind the back seats, so probably need to weld the nut back to the frame, because otherwise it's just going to do absolutely nothing and just rattle around...not even sure it's doing a dang thing anyways, honestly. Popped some plastic pins that I didn't pay attention to, so need to find some new ones of those if anyone knows the best place to get some of the different types of push pins they use in all the plastics in the fender wells, primarily. Otherwise, I had to call Micah about why the driver's side wasn't raising up easily like the passenger side...the culprit from that bolt in the center of the truck under the middle row seats lol. I loosened the steering column by taking the bolt out completely, and it never moved, so I put it back in.

Chris
 

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