An interesting link concerning BEB failure and Oil Type

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This link has been discussed to death on here and other forums.
It all sounds a little conspiratorial to me when he says he cant reveal names or sources on several occasions.
Maybe he is on to something ,maybe he is not.
Some of it dates back to 1995.

The 1 HD T bearing problem has occurred in many countries and with many different oils.

Im using Toyotas own brand of diesel oil although they buy it off someone else in Sydney
I dont believe Amsoil are the only ones that can make a good oil.
 
LOL I think I have posted that link 3 times myself previously. My understanding about the post I put up on oil the other day is that the Japanese diesel builders requested an oil to meet these specifications and asked Castrol to engineer it to specifically meet their needs. cheers
 
AMSOIL is good , what you really want is a synthetic that has a low detergent ratio
ROSCO is right this has been discussed over and over and even re-worded
low detergent keeps the acid from building up ie unburnt fuel in crankcase
or put a copper strip on the dipstick like some NORTH AMERICAN diesels do,
the copper neutralizes the acid
aaron kuit
 
Cheers to that Replacing the stock bearings with the Acl bearings seems to end the conversation on BEB failure.
 
When the bearings fail is it a total rebuild or can they typically be replaced without pulling the engine?
 
I've come across that link before too.

Can someone describe what the BEB failure entails? Do the bearings grip the crank and spin or do they do something else?

The BEB on my Isuzu engine are aluminium, one solid piece with no coating. A workmate who has his Toyota IKZ-TE apart said his BEB were too.
 
I've come across that link before too.

Can someone describe what the BEB failure entails? Do the bearings grip the crank and spin or do they do something else?
.

They start off by delaminating,small parts of the surface breaking off.Then if allowed to get worse it can grip the crank ,or the crank can overheat and snap.

This is a crank suffering from a spun BEB. It was enough to stop the engine from cranking.
1HZ PICS 007 (Medium).webp
 
When the bearings fail is it a total rebuild or can they typically be replaced without pulling the engine?

If it hasn't damaged the crank it can be fixed in situ with new bearings otherwise to replace a crankshaft, its a pull and strip job: (
 
They start off by delaminating,small parts of the surface breaking off.Then if allowed to get worse it can grip the crank ,or the crank can overheat and snap.

This is a crank suffering from a spun BEB. It was enough to stop the engine from cranking.

Thanks.
Was that on your truck?
Do you think simply changing the bearing shells can prevent it?
 
If it hasn't damaged the crank it can be fixed in situ with new bearings otherwise to replace a crankshaft, its a pull and strip job: (

no matter the engine will need to be pulled and the bearing basket pulled as well as the crank to get machined... you are still looking at HUGE money vs the original investment of $750 to prevent it from happening...
 
no matter the engine will need to be pulled and the bearing basket pulled as well as the crank to get machined... you are still looking at HUGE money vs the original investment of $750 to prevent it from happening...

I said if the crank is unaffected/undamaged it wont need to be pulled,why would it?
 
Thanks.
Was that on your truck?
Do you think simply changing the bearing shells can prevent it?

No it was a low klm engine I bought from a mechanics closing down sale.
His apprentice/son got water into the engine and hydrolocked it.
I havent checked the con rods but it somehow damged the BEB on #1.

They had to replace the customers engine with another of the same klm.

I got it for the price of an injector pump which was good according to the bench test.
Head also looks good to my untrained eye
 

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