While pulling the wiring harnesses out of my doors to fix any old bad solder joints and find any other weak points in the wiring (anything that could act as a bottleneck to power going to the doors and windows), I got a wild hair of my ass to take apart one of the window switches. It was NASTY inside with corrosion on the contacts. So I cleaned it as best I could without doing anything with the wiring itself and reinstalled everything in the left/rear door. The window moved up and down almost twice as fast as it used to. I'm going to pull apart the rest of the switches and the power lock switch as well tomorrow and see if cleaning all those will make a difference in the window motor performance.
Something I didn't realize until looking at the wiring diagram was that the power for the motors flows through the switches, and when the switches on the driver's door are used, power still flows through a pair of "always closed" contacts of the switch on the appropriate door. I'll post my findings when I do the rest of the switches. For reference, it took my left/rear door 8 seconds on average to fully raise and lower, and now it takes 5 seconds for each. This is when running off of battery power alone. I think when I can find a good long-lasting lubricant to put in the tracks, that'll help even more.
Something I didn't realize until looking at the wiring diagram was that the power for the motors flows through the switches, and when the switches on the driver's door are used, power still flows through a pair of "always closed" contacts of the switch on the appropriate door. I'll post my findings when I do the rest of the switches. For reference, it took my left/rear door 8 seconds on average to fully raise and lower, and now it takes 5 seconds for each. This is when running off of battery power alone. I think when I can find a good long-lasting lubricant to put in the tracks, that'll help even more.
