Amount of ATF fluid... (1 Viewer)

[bluecruiser]

My entire transmission will be removed for the rear seal replacement..I need to bring the fluids to the mechanic...how much of what should I bring to replace the fluid. The pan will be removed....I don't necessarily need synthetic as I am pretty good about my drain and fills...

Please let me know

thanks

 

[KathmanduCruiser]

Does this help?

 

[bluecruiser]

that worked...thanks

 

[NMuzj100]

To me a synthetic fluid is the clear choice for ATF.
- you can never drain 100%
- there is no filtration
- even with drain and fills the fluid will be in service a long time
- Rodney with Wholesale Automatics (the world expert in these trannies) recommends a synthetic fluid
- with the price increases in other fluids the full synthetics are not at a huge premium especially if you are purchasing a case (12qts)
- the Synthetic will hold up to extreme heat better than a GroupII/III fluid

Off soapbox - What fluid are you going to use ?

For the most part the price reflects the quality but anything that meets the old DexIII specification will work. Valvoline ATF seems to be the current favorite on BITOG for the non-synthetics. Chevron used to be a favorite. Look for a fluid that says it is formulated to meet the DIII H specification put out by a major producer. A compromise is to use a multi-vehicle fluid that is "approved" for DexIII but is formulated to the Mercon V standards because Mercon V requires better base stocks.

There is no longer a large gap between the Group II ATFs and Full PAO/Ester Sythetics. Instead there is a continuum of fluids from Group I/II minimum spec ATFs (House brand - "Recommended for DexIII")- $2/qt, to Group II/III blends (Multi-vehicle, Mercon V, C4+) - $$3-4/qt, The newer Low viscosity fluids (Dex6, WS) - $6/qt and then the full Synthetics (Mobil1,Amsoil, Redline D4 and D6) - $6-10/qt. Many/Most of these will meet the DIII requirements and work in the 100's transmission.

For much more ATF discussion head over to ...

BITOG ATF and Gear Lube Forum

 

[LXPearl]

I have switched to synthetics also (Mobil 1 and Redline) - peace of mind for not much difference in cost. Expect about 4 qt drain & fill and about 17 qts for full replacement.

 

[bluecruiser]

I just saw that LXPearl said 17 quarts for full replacement. What exactly will I need? The tranny will be out of the vehicle the pan, the pan will be removed. Can I switch to synthetic at this point?

Or is there a special process to cycle out all of the old ATF?

I am not opposed to switching to synthetic, I just do not know the process to do it...

 

[NMuzj100]

Treat the synthetic the same as any other fluid. It can be mixed with the previous fluid in any proportion without problems.

Not sure how much you'll need after removing the transmission. I would expect somewhere between the dry fill amount (12 qts) and a normal pan drop (4-5 qts). Probably closer to the pan drop figure.

If you have been doing drain and fills and are not trying to spend unnecessary money then I wouldn't try a full exchange (letting all the old fluid get pumped out by the tranny pump while adding new to the pan, this can often take more fluid than a dry fill). Just get the unit back in place and add fluid till it reaches the appropriate dipstick level.

Getting the right amount of fluid back in can be a little tricky especially if you aren't sure how much came out. Add fluid till it barely registers on the stick. Idle the truck for a few minutes and switch through the gears. Add to cold mark and take it for a spin to get it up to temp (~ 5 minutes after the engine reaches temp). Measure again at idle and add to hot mark.

Let us know how it goes and what you decide.

 

[uHu]

Just a comment about the time to reach operating temperature for the tranny.

I found that the dipstick level would be considerably higher half an hour later, with highway driving, than at just 5 mins after engine is up to temp. Seems that the tranny takes some time to get the temp up.

 

[NMuzj100]

uHu - I agree. Take a good long spin, maybe even drive w/o the OD to prevent TC lockup. The oil should feel hot to the touch.

 

[bluecruiser]

thanks for the tips...I was previously worried about mixing two different types of fluids...I will most likely go the synthetic route now...

 

[LXPearl]

Bluecruiser, NMuzj100 is correct on the dry replacement - it is about 12 qts. I was using what one should be prepared for if doing the pump out method where about 15-17 qts are typically used.

If you do 12 now, you can always do drain and fills in the future with synthetic knowing you already have predominantly synthetic in there. I have been replacing my original with synthetic the slow way with drain and fill. In the meantime I have a "blend" that still gives me some of the added properties of the synthetic ATF.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

thanks for the tips...I was previously worried about mixing two different types of fluids...I will most likely go the synthetic route now...

When's Robert doing you Cruiser?

 

[bluecruiser]

this Saturday..

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Gotcha. I spoke with Robert last night. I'm taking the LX450 over Sunday. (Unless he screws up your 100) KIDDING!

 

[bluecruiser]

thanks again...

 

[Jim_Chow]

I heard that Toyota Type T-IV is synthetic. Any truth to this?

 

[NMuzj100]

I heard that Toyota Type T-IV is synthetic. Any truth to this?

No. Conventional fluid with high levels of friction modifiers. Really not much special with T-IV. There are now lots of good replacement fluids that are recommended for T-IV. If you get a Multi-Vehicle formula ATF that is recommended for T-IV and also meets the Mercon V standard then it will often be a synthetic blend and a better fluid since meeting the Mercon V requires better basestocks.

Short list of ATFs Recommended for T-IV -

Amsoil Universal ATF (Full synthetic)
Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF (Synthetic Blend, Mercon V)
Coastal Synthetic Blend Automatic Transmission Fluid (Synthetic Blend, Mercon V)
Penzoil Multi-vehicle ATF ( Mineral Based Mercon V)
Valvoline Maxlife ATF (Mineral Based Mercon V)
Mobil ATF 3309 (Mineral Based)

 

[Jim_Chow]

I've thought about Amsoil ATF, but it costs twice as much at Toyota T-IV, so even if you run it 60K mi vs. 30K, you just break even. Second points are you don't get the satisfaction/peace of mind that all the ATF in there is new every 30K mi, and it would be easier for the dealer to deny a warranty claim if the tranny went south and you used an aftermarket brand of ATF and ran it 60K+. I figured that since I'm under warranty until 100K, if the dealership does the ATF change using Toyota T-IV fluid at 30K intervals, there's no way they can claim the tranny wasn't serviced properly or the fluid was the culprit.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

How's your truck? How did Robert do? 2 days work?

 

[bluecruiser]

I am getting ready to check everything out...on my test drive around his house everything looked good...but after driving back to phoenix I discovered transmission fluid on the transfer case??? I had no tranny leaks before...I called him and he suggested I clean it up and check out the hard lines (cooler pipes?) to the transmission..

Right now I am kind of nervous about the whole thing...I hope I find the line that needs tightened and that fixes it...it was 11 hours to replace rear oil seal and the front output seal on the transfer case..

But now I know all the auto parts stores in Tucson trying to find a gear puller with long enough arms to pull the gear in the front housing of the transfer case off.....that was fun