And I'll ASSume you haven't towed enough with your LC. I don't need to tow with a diesel to know that my own vehicle tows my trailer, that is within the manufacturers capacities guidelines, with aplomb. The tool I'm using is rated for this use. I've taken the time to set it up properly. The fact that another vehicle might tow as well (or better) doesn't surprise me. But that doesn't lesson my own vehicles merits or capabilities.
Am I pushing the towing capacity?
- Thread starter KNA
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And I'll ASSume you haven't towed enough with your LC. I don't need to tow with a diesel to know that my own vehicle tows my trailer, that is within the manufacturers capacities guidelines, with aplomb. The tool I'm using is rated for this use. I've taken the time to set it up properly. The fact that another vehicle might tow as well (or better) doesn't surprise me. But that doesn't lesson my own vehicles merits or capabilities.
I am not sure the original poster was really interested in towing.
My thinking is that I must configure my rig to be able to predictably handle emergency situations. A blowout, a truck losing brakes coming down a mountain toward me, dodging an accident happening three vehicles ahead. I cannot be perfect but I need a ton of margin to be responsible. I consider myself a fairly competent driver on most road course tracks. But on the highway mass and inertia rule.
My thinking is that I must configure my rig to be able to predictably handle emergency situations. A blowout, a truck losing brakes coming down a mountain toward me, dodging an accident happening three vehicles ahead. I cannot be perfect but I need a ton of margin to be responsible. I consider myself a fairly competent driver on most road course tracks. But on the highway mass and inertia rule.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Perfect reason not to tow 7k trailer with a 5k truck!
RET2
SILVER Star
I for one wouldn't bet money on the LC. By your reasoning a Ferrari could out pull a Semi ? Just say'n
It may work to tow your big toys on the flatlands and what you call hills but you’re not towing those up our Mtn passes for several miles of constant climbing and then the steep declines that would make your butt pucker with those setups in the pics above. Lol! You can buy super comfy(Ford F-250 Plat) 1/2-3/4 ton diesels that get much better fuel mileage and won’t beat up your engine and underpinnings. Sorry but the LC was never built to tow big trailers and 35’+boats. Yes, it’s dangerous pulling extra long “heavy” toys behind a shorter wheelbase. It’s not that I don’t trust the LC towing 7000lbs+ but why use the wrong tool when you can buy something like a F-250 6.7L and pull the 10000lbs trailer sideways up any Mtn pass without even noticing it. Lol!!
You and I, obviously, don’t know what we are talking about. I dont know about you but in 1967, at 15 years of age, I drove a truck with 17 head of rodeo bucking stock through the Pine Pass in northern B.C. Since then I have spent most of my time building power lines which entailed driving many different trucks, from International Harvester pickups to tandem axled Chevys, Fords and Internationals. I have had an easy time with my travel trailer because we don’t have long hills or fast roads up here in B.C. (?) so the facts about hp vs torque don’t come into play. It is funny that the same debate over which is important comes up all the time in jet boat forums, and yes, hp is the important figure. Of course, I probably shouldn’t be dragging my 4,000 lb boat with the 200’s either now that it has been pointed out to me.
200,000 miles on the LC and 110,000+ km,s on the LX, but what do we know?
I would look at passing on the Blue OX and use an Equalizer hitch.
I ran the Equalizer on my last trailer and loved it. Solid towing ability with little sway.
I recently opted to go with the Andersen WD hitch for its lighter weight and it does not provide nearly the sway control of the equalizer.
Another item you can do that helps with the sway is increase your tire ply to a load range E tire. This will help towing stability immensely.
A few more items that you will need:
Brake controller
Extended mirrors
I ran the Equalizer on my last trailer and loved it. Solid towing ability with little sway.
I recently opted to go with the Andersen WD hitch for its lighter weight and it does not provide nearly the sway control of the equalizer.
Another item you can do that helps with the sway is increase your tire ply to a load range E tire. This will help towing stability immensely.
A few more items that you will need:
Brake controller
Extended mirrors
Since 
's truck is a 2500 with Cumins, my limit with the '13 LC would be 3-4000 lbs, and over 1500 I'd install a brake controller. My max over th years has always been no more than 2/3 max gvw. I check that via a commercial scale < a mile away that will hold a semi with doubles.
Idaho has more mountain than flatland highways, and imo diesel is definitely the way to go, especially with a vehicle with something (normally Charmac 3-horse slant with ~ 2500 lbs. of horse flesh and another 300 pounds of's riding equipment. 
The drivers' job is to give the horses as comfortable a ride as possible while staying safe. A diesel does that much better than a gas motor, and we've tried both.
Load range E tires are a no-brainer and may be a tiny bit cheaper than LR D's.
Laws for brakes vary by state...http://www.towshop.com/trailer_supplemental_braking_laws.htm . I've towed a log splitter a bunch...heaviest thing so far would be a full 100 gallon propane tank on a 6-700 lb. lots-o'-steel trailer. SMV sign on the trailer in theory gives me right of way...it's 45 mph max and make a FULL stop at RR crossings or cough up for a major ticket and hit on your insurance.
's truck is a 2500 with Cumins, my limit with the '13 LC would be 3-4000 lbs, and over 1500 I'd install a brake controller. My max over th years has always been no more than 2/3 max gvw. I check that via a commercial scale < a mile away that will hold a semi with doubles.Idaho has more mountain than flatland highways, and imo diesel is definitely the way to go, especially with a vehicle with something (normally Charmac 3-horse slant with ~ 2500 lbs. of horse flesh and another 300 pounds of
's riding equipment. The drivers' job is to give the horses as comfortable a ride as possible while staying safe. A diesel does that much better than a gas motor, and we've tried both.Load range E tires are a no-brainer and may be a tiny bit cheaper than LR D's.
Laws for brakes vary by state...http://www.towshop.com/trailer_supplemental_braking_laws.htm . I've towed a log splitter a bunch...heaviest thing so far would be a full 100 gallon propane tank on a 6-700 lb. lots-o'-steel trailer. SMV sign on the trailer in theory gives me right of way...it's 45 mph max and make a FULL stop at RR crossings or cough up for a major ticket and hit on your insurance.
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No, I’m not saying you guys are wrong but why not use the best tool for the job? It’s not just about weight but also the length(sway) of what you are pulling. Sorry but I would blow past you keeping speed up the Mtns.in a 6.7l and drive 200miles further than you in your 200 and get to my destination forgetting I was pulling anything to begin with. The LC is the Swiss Army knife without a doubt but it’s no big boy tow machine. I had my CDL for a few years while towing my Dads offshore race boat...a 43 ZR Donzi with triple Mericruisers 2100hp. For that I used a comfy F650. Better to use more than you need and never come close to the limit.
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I'll add thinking about cross winds and things can get interesting very quickly. A thousand pounds of engine helps a bunch.
Canyonero
Beating up Land Cruisers since 2015
Anyone else notice the OP is MIA?
RET2
SILVER Star
Out shopping for a pickup?
I for one wouldn't bet money on the LC. By your reasoning a Ferrari could out pull a Semi ? Just say'n
Grasshopper, if the Ferrari had the gearing and structure, ab-so-friggen-lutely.
Let's put the following equation (horsepower = torque * rpm / 5252) in terms you guys might understand. Math and academics put us on the moon. This isn't theory for the sake of theory.
We'll replace the terms of the equation to figure out how much beer two guys can drink in a minute (horsepower).
Big guy A, who drinks giant growlers (big torque) is our F250 rig. Little guy B is our standard Ferrari that drinks little bottles (little torque). The great equalizer is how many drinks each one can throw down in a minute (revolutions per minute).
hp = amount of beer a guy can drink (because that's the end work being done)
tq = size of drink
rpm = number of times the guy can throw down his drink in one minute
Guy A drinks 925 units of beer, 1800 times a minute (Ford F250 - 925 tq @ 1800rpm)
Guy B drinks 509 units of beer, 6000 times a minute (Ferrari F12 - 509 tq @ 6000rpm)
horsepower = torque * rpm / 5252
translated: Total amount of beer = size of container * drinks a minute / 5252
Guy A = 925 * 1800 / 5252 = 317 units of beer
Guy B = 350 * 5250 / 5252 = 582 units of beer
RET2
SILVER Star
Wow thanks for straightening us all out. We might have wandered thru life misinformed and uneducated as to the consumption of adult beverages. IF is a tiny word with big inferences. I mean IF pigs had wings they could fly right? Don't think either of us is going to change the others mind. So if it's ok I'll just keep on trucking.
- Thread starter
- #35
hello guys,
boy I apologize for my delay. The information that you all have provided is fantastic. So far I have been just renting a Ford 250 Diesel.
I haven't given up on my LC though. I just haven't purchased my weight distribution hitch and brake controller yet but plan to set the Cruiser up for towing. I'm probably going to do a test with it on a short trip. I'm in PA and we do have hills but not that bad. All I really do is trailer my vehicle to the surrounding race tracks ( Watkins Glen, Pocono , Summit Point, VIR ) VIR is approximately 7 hours away from my location and that's the longest trip I've made. Not with the Land Cruiser though.
boy I apologize for my delay. The information that you all have provided is fantastic. So far I have been just renting a Ford 250 Diesel.
I haven't given up on my LC though. I just haven't purchased my weight distribution hitch and brake controller yet but plan to set the Cruiser up for towing. I'm probably going to do a test with it on a short trip. I'm in PA and we do have hills but not that bad. All I really do is trailer my vehicle to the surrounding race tracks ( Watkins Glen, Pocono , Summit Point, VIR ) VIR is approximately 7 hours away from my location and that's the longest trip I've made. Not with the Land Cruiser though.
My advice would be to rent a LC and tow with it to make up your mind. There is no substitute for you actually doing it.
You may have to check around to find an LC for rent. As part of your search, don't forget to check with the dealership. Toyota does rent cars, including LC's. Use your judgment as to whether you should tell them that you plan to tow with it before you rent unless they specifically ask.
It sounds like one way or another you are going to want to buy a brake controller. When you rent the LC you can install it, use it and remove it before you return the rental. It shouldn't be that much of a big deal to do that. There are threads here on installing the brake controller with pictures. The LC comes set up for the brake controller to plug right in. The pig tail is under the dash left of the steering wheel.
If you end up not needing the brake controller, be sure wherever you buy it you can return it within 30 or 60 days.
You may have to check around to find an LC for rent. As part of your search, don't forget to check with the dealership. Toyota does rent cars, including LC's. Use your judgment as to whether you should tell them that you plan to tow with it before you rent unless they specifically ask.
It sounds like one way or another you are going to want to buy a brake controller. When you rent the LC you can install it, use it and remove it before you return the rental. It shouldn't be that much of a big deal to do that. There are threads here on installing the brake controller with pictures. The LC comes set up for the brake controller to plug right in. The pig tail is under the dash left of the steering wheel.
If you end up not needing the brake controller, be sure wherever you buy it you can return it within 30 or 60 days.
OP: It can be done. Just be sure you have good trailer brakes and a good controller.
However, for those considering the merits of regularly towing at or near the rated capacity with a LC, I'd suggest you rent or borrow a heavy duty pickup, pull the same load (preferably in the hills/mountains) then make the call. I have owned a 1997 80, 2007 100, and now a 2011 200 (all LXs). I have also owned a 2009 F350 Lariat long wheelbase (single rear wheel) with 3.73 rear end and a 2016 F450 Platinum (dually) with a 4.10 rear end (440HP). I have pulled with all five of them. It is zero contest on which pulls (and more importantly stops) better, especially up/downhill at elevation. 3% HP loss per 1,000 feet in a naturally aspirated 381HP gas engine compared to a 440HP turbo diesel plus gearing designed for towing makes a world of difference. I pulled a 21,000 pound 39ft 5th wheel with my F450 over Vail, Hoosier, Monarch, and Berthoud passes without any issue or breaking a sweat. At the opposite extreme, I could barely get over Raton pass pulling a 4k travel trailer with my 212HP 80 (AC quit along the way as the rising engine temp triggered a shutdown).
IMO, the descent (and stopping in general) is far more important for safety than pulling - again, no contest. The HD pickups have integrated brake controllers, engine brakes, and dedicated transmission modes to maintain safe speeds on long downhill grades. They also have monster brakes just in case. Didn't they pull the space shuttle with a Tundra? There was no mention of stopping...
Based only on practical experience, if I were regularly towing more than 5-6k, I'd absolutely use a long wheelbase HD pickup with a turbo diesel. YMMV.
However, for those considering the merits of regularly towing at or near the rated capacity with a LC, I'd suggest you rent or borrow a heavy duty pickup, pull the same load (preferably in the hills/mountains) then make the call. I have owned a 1997 80, 2007 100, and now a 2011 200 (all LXs). I have also owned a 2009 F350 Lariat long wheelbase (single rear wheel) with 3.73 rear end and a 2016 F450 Platinum (dually) with a 4.10 rear end (440HP). I have pulled with all five of them. It is zero contest on which pulls (and more importantly stops) better, especially up/downhill at elevation. 3% HP loss per 1,000 feet in a naturally aspirated 381HP gas engine compared to a 440HP turbo diesel plus gearing designed for towing makes a world of difference. I pulled a 21,000 pound 39ft 5th wheel with my F450 over Vail, Hoosier, Monarch, and Berthoud passes without any issue or breaking a sweat. At the opposite extreme, I could barely get over Raton pass pulling a 4k travel trailer with my 212HP 80 (AC quit along the way as the rising engine temp triggered a shutdown).
IMO, the descent (and stopping in general) is far more important for safety than pulling - again, no contest. The HD pickups have integrated brake controllers, engine brakes, and dedicated transmission modes to maintain safe speeds on long downhill grades. They also have monster brakes just in case. Didn't they pull the space shuttle with a Tundra? There was no mention of stopping...
Based only on practical experience, if I were regularly towing more than 5-6k, I'd absolutely use a long wheelbase HD pickup with a turbo diesel. YMMV.
