True that. The Titatic takes longer to rust than a Land Cruiser.
Always Ask For Undercarriage Photos (1 Viewer)
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True that. The Titatic takes longer to rust than a Land Cruiser.
now that's the funniest thing I've heard all week!
my diffs look similar to that in the photos above. I thought I found a unicorn 06 with about 110K on it but what killed the unicorn was the decade it spent in New Jersey. The rust has not affected the intergrity of the frame or major parts but has taken a toll on smaller things (parking brake, 12MM screws broke off when removing intermediate splash guard). There is an undercoating on the frame that I put on myself just to give me piece of mind ( I live in the south so no salt). Anyone have experience with dealing with rust long term?
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I think the main thing you'll continue to deal with are snapped bolts when you remove things. Beyond that, drive it. It'll go.
I surprisingly ended up buying a low-mileage 2003 that spent it's entire life in New Jersey and Connecticut. Must have never been driven in snow or was washed immediately and was garaged for sure. Both owners did have heated garages. I flew out from mid-Missouri to buy it in September.
SOLD - Rust free 2003, UZJ100 in Connecticut
I surprisingly ended up buying a low-mileage 2003 that spent it's entire life in New Jersey and Connecticut. Must have never been driven in snow or was washed immediately and was garaged for sure. Both owners did have heated garages. I flew out from mid-Missouri to buy it in September.
SOLD - Rust free 2003, UZJ100 in Connecticut
Unfortunately, as much as I love saving rusted vehicles, there's no real way that I know of to dealing with it long term that doesn't involve: a.) Frame replacement b.) Frame off restoration c.) Cutting out the bad parts, welding in new metal, coating, hoping for the best or (my least favorite option that's far too popular in my eyes) d.) moving on to a new, less rusty vehicle.
It really is true that once rust starts, it's near impossible to stop. Halting it and "slowing" it down is one thing, but it's always there.
Driving is snow is not that big of a deal, even with salts on the road. Rule is wash undercarriage regularly after snow, mud, rain, sand, river crossings. Panels cavities can be coated, underside sprayed with rust inhibitor and garaged all go a long way.
But I'll rarely give any vehicle from rust belt (Chicago to NY) a second look, just waste to much of my time. Even well cared for often have bolts frozen that work me to death, no thank you!
I've seen so many travel to rust-belt states unaware their buying rust, just to get the "DEAL". Their repair cost go thought the roof in first two years. Don't buy "the deal" buy value and rust free! Inspect inspect and inspect some more!
But I'll rarely give any vehicle from rust belt (Chicago to NY) a second look, just waste to much of my time. Even well cared for often have bolts frozen that work me to death, no thank you!
I've seen so many travel to rust-belt states unaware their buying rust, just to get the "DEAL". Their repair cost go thought the roof in first two years. Don't buy "the deal" buy value and rust free! Inspect inspect and inspect some more!
wow that was a nice find on the 03 in New England. I replaced my failing ACH with OME kit myself and really got a chance to get into the guts of the truck. The absolute toughest bolt Ive ever cranked on was the torsion bar adjuster bolt (30MM) that appeared to have never been touched since factory installation. Like I said the body for what ever reason has zero rust on it and vehicle is very clean. The engine bay has rusted brackets and screws that are noticeable without digging into it. The mechanic that did my timing belt said that he was very careful to remove bolts while working to ensure nothing broke off but said the engine looked in great condition (only tried to sell me new front brake pads which Im doing myself this weekend). Aside from suspension and parking brake, brake lines look old and crusty but still functional and pressurized.
Aside from the frame, which parts are most vital that I need to pay attention to?
Aside from the frame, which parts are most vital that I need to pay attention to?
Yep, that's typical for a hundy in this region, this is another customer i worked on last week...just as bad...When i wrench under them, i have to wear a hat and goggles or else i'll get rust in my eyes and hair. I'm used to it, you need really strong air tools to work on these rusted rigs.
And the frame just above looks perfect. I see a lot of people post "scary rust" pictures of surface rusted skid plates and at the edges of their pictures you can see perfect frames and even perfect running board mounts. I think some people run away from the wrong kind of rust. I just got an LC and people ran away saying it was too rusty. Really looking under it, the frame was perfect. Just some surface rust on skid plates and axle housing, which happens on everything.
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Your truck sounds like mine. Body is mint (no, seriously) and the engine bay has the same issues. My truck specifically though, the underpinnings haven't been treated well. I'm in the process of replacing:
- both rear body mounts
- rear cross-member above the rear axle
- patching the side frame rails in the rear (small holes)
Gonna get it all coated with POR-15 soon, just so it makes me feel better.
Sounds very similar to mine. Have not looked at body mounts but rear bumper/spare tire area was definitely the worst part. I just took off surface rust from big parts and treated/coated for this winter. In the spring Ill take some of it off and reassess. Im going to drive this thing until the wheels fall off.
