Aluminum Barn Doors?

[JohnnyC]

for those who know metal...

Is 5086 aluminum good for rear barn doors in .190" ... i am thinking its good because of its thickness ... but ...

is it too soft?

a friend may have some that will just be enough to do both rear doors on my truck

 

[Weber Sarge]

I'd use 5052/H32 . Not sure about corrosion factor on either alloy , better research it first .
Sarge

 

[skully3]

that's a marine grade alloy used on boats and salt water stuff. very good for corrosion. just make sure that the proper wire or filler is used when you weld it. 3/16 aluminum in any form, that short of a distance will hold up just fine. stay away from 3000 series, its made to form and bend.

edit: you may want to fab something at the top where they meet to keep them aligned depending on your final design.

 

[JohnnyC]

Thanks for the info.... the design is just going to be simple flat panels... drivers side i was going to add a lip like the factory doors have other than that they are flat.

thanks again.... will post up again when i have them and make it work

 

[JohnnyC]

Well it's much thicker than I thought... Buddy brought it down to me the other day... Has a few minor dings... Very hard to see

I'm thinking I may have an issue bending a lip for the doors to overlap

 

[skully3]

You can cut off a strip with a regular carbide 7 1/4 skil saw and lap weld it on the outside. May even be able to leave the bottom long to catch on the rear sill. Unless its going on a newer style tub with a lip. Im sure it would look good centered up and about 40mm wide with a few tig "stitch" welds down the side. It will be almost bullet proof when your done.

 

[peteinjp]

For that matter you could cut it on the table saw if it's got a good sharp carbide blade on it.

Pete

 

[handcannon]

For that matter you could cut it on the table saw if it's got a good sharp carbide blade on it.

Pete

A finer tooth blade will work better, maybe around 60 tooth. Also, wear long sleeves, gloves, and a face shield. Those aluminum chips being thrown by the saw teeth are HOT, and the fresh cut edges are SHARP. From the voice of experience.

Don

 

[JohnnyC]

I need to find time to do this

i was thinking that I could just do this for the doors to overlap

 

[skully3]

that would work but I would put some kind of a buffer between them...aluminum galls easily and will eventually ball up from friction.. either way you do it thin rubber gasket or heavy felt will have to be (or should be) added. A good commercial grade Teflon tape would work also. If you want to get creative, fame each side out like a picture frame with a flat plate in the back to keep the "stock" look.

 

[handcannon]

I need to find time to do this

i was thinking that I could just do this for the doors to overlap

View attachment 1085925

Do you have a good heavy duty router? A good router, such as the Porter-Cable 690 1.75 HP, or the Porter-Cable 691 1.75 D handle (same motor different handles), a straight edge and clamps for a fence, and a double flute carbide bit with preferably a half inch shank would do the job. Start with a fresh bit, go slow and easy, and do the cut with several passes. Aluminum can be worked with carbide cutters by going slow and easy, but the sharp edge on the carbide will be dulled much more quickly, so be vigilant about the cutter condition. Again, the flying shavings will be hot, so be dressed appropriately.

Your .190 (just over 3/16"I) thick aluminum will end up thin after doing the rabbit cut. You will end up with a maximum of 3/32" thickness for each lap cut. This is not allowing for anything between the two overlapping surfaces. I'm a cabinetmaker by trade, not a metalworker, so I'm not familiar with the strength properties of the aluminum. I just know from experience that aluminum can be milled with the proper woodworking equipment IF you are set up with good equipment, and IF you are very careful doing the work.

You COULD do this on a table saw IF you have a good saw and blade, are experienced with using a saw, and know how to properly set up for the cut. However, in my opinion the router would be much safer as a saw blade will tend to catch the work piece and draw it into the blade in the blink of an eye.

Don

 

[JohnnyC]

Great idea for using the router ... I have a table top router at work

We have used our table saw before for cutting a friends 1/2" aluminum that he was using for his race sled ( can't recall what it was used for ) it cut very easy

 

[handcannon]

For just cutting to size you can't beat a table saw. But, to do a clean rabbet a router will do a much better job.

Don

 

[JohnnyC]

@handcannon

I think I got it LOL

 

[whitey45]

Johnny, just move to cali and your rust issues will be a memory! Sorry, I just think about us here on the west coast when we see a couple rust bubbles from a 20 year paint job, and get all worked up about the guy who didnt prep correctly! We are lucky out here when it comes to rust!

 

[handcannon]

@handcannon

I think I got it LOL

I'm not sure what was going on. I tried posting a reply, but it wouldn't post, or so it seemed like. So I tried again, with the same results. So I tried again, several times, and with the same results. I got frustrated and clicked out of the thread, and then back in to try again only to find that my reply had posted every time, but it never showed on my computer as having posted.

Oh well, that just shows how my computer prowess is. Good thing I have my son and daughter to help me every time I get lost. They just roll their eyes and say "here we go again".

To cover my back trail I deleted all the extra posts.

Don

 

[shelfboy1]

i made the same style doors from 1/4 " steel plate always thought they looked ok and after 26 years on the truck the still didnt rust. aluminum would have been a better choice and will be my next set if i ever need to make more, some nice ideas on here

 

[JohnnyC]

This is where I'm at right now... Maybe in a month I'll have time to do more lol

Footman loops are from oem doors ... Not in position yet... Just for looks

 

[jim land]

nice wood planks , is it white pine ?

about the doors ,i like the idea of keeping a stock look by cutting the center , with hinges and a lock , it could be a quick access door for recovery gears like a tow rope without the need of openning the soft top rear window.

 

[JohnnyC]

Interesting idea for sure... I like your idea


Yes pine... It's cheap wood... Many knots ... We rip it down to 3/16 strips for miniature bridge building

Some student work with test vehicle as part of the criteria 'to allow Mr Cs car to drive across'