Alternator problem

[boydmick]

Alternator idiot light comes on so I do a search (just for JUNK!). Sounds like the brushes are bad. Replaced the brushes today (the old ones still looked pretty good) but the light is still on.

Did another search but nothing seems to apply. What should I try next?

Thanks,

Boyd

P.S. Just for background: Original battery replaced 2 months ago, starter contacts 1 month ago. No other electrical issues. BM

 

[landtank]

Do you have a VOM? With the engine running at around 2k and with the head lights on you should read around 14.2 vdc at the battery. This will help you figure out where the problem is.

 

[boydmick]

I have a cheap digital multimeter and I got the following readings:

Battery voltage (tested at the posts):

Vehicle off: 12.85

Vehicle at ~2,000 RPM with headlights on (low beam only): 12.43

Thanks,

Boyd

 

[CruisinGA]

you ain't chargin.

Check all fuses, i bet you needum a new alternator. Check all connections to the alternator as well.

 

[Rich]

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h8.pdf

 

[Safado]

Good advice so far, and nice job on the SEARCH and information given.

 

[boydmick]

Troubleshooting Alternator

Rich,

Thanks for the link to Autoshop 101!

Now for some help with the procedure:
On page 13 of the link there is a flowchart. I am at step 3 - Ground alternator F terminal and raise engine speed to 1200 RPM. Is B terminal voltrage above 13V?

I need to know if I can ground -F- to the alternator case, or do I need to run the ground to something else?

Thanks,

Boyd

 

[Scamper]

The alternator case will be okay, though you're only inches from the negative battery terminal anyway...

 

[boydmick]

Solved it!

Seems the voltage regulator was the culprit. (Are the dogs hungry Dan?)

The alternator case will be okay, though you're only inches from the negative battery terminal anyway...

Thanks Scamper, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't fry anything if the pin I shoved through the hole touched the case.


Thanks everybody for the excellent info!

Boyd

 

[cruiserdan]

The voltage regulator is contained within the alternator and Mr T is VERY proud of it.

Since the regulator by it's self is almost as much money as a reman alternator, (which includes a new regulator) I would suggest going that route.

The core value is 30 bucks so you may want to hang on to the old one for spare bits in future.

Some after-market alternators have a much higher core charge than the OEM Toyota alternators have.


Oh, sometimes I get NEW alternators in a re-man box if the core bank is low.

The last one I looked at was new with a re-man label slapped onto it.

 

[landtank]

The last one I looked at was new with a re-man label slapped onto it.

Which is now sitting in your basement.

 

[cruiserdan]

Which is now sitting in your basement.

Um,







You peeked, didn't you............

 

[Rich]

Boyd,

Glad to help.

Rich

 

[Riley]

Dan - just curious, what's the ballpark cost for a reman Toy alternator?

Smart shopper price of course.

 

[cruiserdan]

About 215 bucks, exchange.

 

[mabrodis]

Dan, this is as good of place as any I guess to ask about this. When Toyota does a remanufacturing job on a alternator, or a starter, what exactly do they do?

I'm curious because I would guess all they would do is maybe put in new brushes, make sure it's clean and test it. I would doubt they would put in new bearings, as those never seem to wearout and I know a local place that rebuilt a few friend's alternators told them they have never replaced a bearing in an alternator in years. So is it possible that by getting a reman alternator even from Toyota you could be getting a part that is in actually worse shape than the one you have that might have bad brushes let's say? Since the one you're getting could have way more miles on it, and obviously still works (or they wouldn't sell it) but as far as wear and tear, could be worse?

I'm asking this because in a few days I'm pulling a starter out of a '99 Cruiser, replacing the contacts. The shop that was going to do it was ofcourse not going to replace the contacts, just toss in a whole new starter. But I know it wasn't a NEW starter, it was a reman one, and I'm curious if getting a reman one could be worse than just putting contacts in the one we have which we know the mileage on, etc. I'm not putting in a new starter anyway, so you can't talk me into that.. But just curious...and others might want to know this too.

Later..
Mark Brodis

 

[cruiserdan]

It's a secret...






The case, pulley, and windings are re-used. The bearings, rectifier, regulator, brush package and rubber bits are replaced. In some cases they will also get new windings if they do not pass muster.

 

[mabrodis]

Ok, so it really is a mostly new alternator...good to know...still won't buy one though...