Alternator Help Please.

[fjatheart]

My original style alt. set-up with separate voltage regulator is no longer keeping my battery charged.

I've got a new Yellow Top with winch, ARB compressor coming off of it along with a 6A MSD multi spark and DUI distributor.

My alternator reads 11 volts and the lights, turn signals dim when the radio and defrost/heat is on.

What should I do?? Replace with factory style alternator and retain external voltage regulator or change to something else?

I've seen the FAQ on GM alt's, but did see what you guys thought about the particular units vs. oem.

Thanks

 

[Coolerman]

Before rushing out to replace the alternator check to see if the voltage regulator is bad. The FSM has the procedure to check it and the alternator. Or you can take the alternator to any auto store to be checked for free.

The reason no one has responded, is this is one of those subjects that has so many ways of doing it, it becomes confusing trying to sort it out. Search this subject and you will get 10 ways to do it, all that will work. For pure simplicity it's hard to beat the OEM setup as it's bolt on and go.

Need more amps? Then check out upgrading to a later 2F 50 amp alternator with built in regulator. There are some mods to make though, so read the threads carefully.

Even more amps needed? The 12SI GM alternator is a good upgrade, but again there are mods to make so read up.

 

[trainrech]

Ditto on checking the voltage regulator first.

 

[fjatheart]

How do I check my voltage regulator. (meter to the -post on battery and + to???)

Thanks

 

[Coolerman]

Your sig line says you have a 1980 FJ40? Why do you have a separate regulator setup? The 1980 should have the built in regulator. Post up a pic of this setup if you can...

Regulator testing is in the FSM but you have to know what you have first.

 

[bsmith123]

Yup

1980 external? Thats what I was thinking?

With it running you should be reading about 14 volts at the terminals and it should not increase when you rev it up


Are you sure you have and external VR? Or can you just see it screwed to the alternator case---when we say external VR usually talking about the old fashioned mechanical box type mounted on the cowl with wires running to the altenator

The big pic show an altenator with the built in VR, the inset is an SOR pic of the external VR

which one of these types do you have?

 

[fjatheart]

Don't own a FSM, can someone help me out?

 

[bsmith123]

alternator

be glad to,

we need to know what kind of alternator and volt reg you have to tell you how to test it

But if you do as described and put your meter leads red to pos and black to neg on the batt you should read 12v, then start it and you should read about 14 volts, then rev it up past 2000 rpm and it should stay at 14 volts----that indicates the regulator is working ---whatever kind it is

To get beyond that we need to know what kind of VR you are using.

How about the AMMETER ---is the needle left of zero or right of zero and by how much?

can you post a pic of the back of the alternator?

if not describe if it has a square on it like the pic I posted or anything bolted to the back

how many wires go to it etc

 

[fjatheart]

My voltage regulator is mounted on the firewall on the passenger side. It's a DENSO, Remanufactured Toyota VR.

The ammeter stays straight up and does not lean to the - or + side.

My alternator has 3 wires. Two wires are going into a plastic clip and attach to the back of the alt. The other wire is screwed onto a post. (This wire is white with a blue stripe)

Does this help?

 

[bsmith123]

yes

Okay we know you have an external regulator now

when are you reading the 11 volts? do the test with the engine running and off and let us know what you are reading without the accessories on


My alternator reads 11 volts and the lights, turn signals dim when the radio and defrost/heat is on.

11 volts is when these are turned on --is that right? What does your ammeter read then?

heres some checks to start with
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/c...icalSystemTroubleShooting8-4FEngineManual.jpg

Voltage drop checks
http://www.excelauto.com/online/Tech.d/altvdt.html

Coolermans site ---this is a F not 2F manual but I believe all the markings on the VR will be the same and test the same--let me know if any are different
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/main.htm

note the VR terminal markings and testing here
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/c...ystemAlternatorRegulator8-16FEngineManual.jpg
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/c...ystemAlternatorRegulator8-17FEngineManual.jpg
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/c...ystemAlternatorRegulator8-18FEngineManual.jpg


Adjusting the VR contacts is here

http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/c...ystemAlternatorRegulator8-23FEngineManual.jpg
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/c...ctricalSystemDistributor8-24FEngineManual.jpg


Let us know how you get on with that or if you need more info

 

[fjatheart]

Okay,

With the Cruiser running I'm reading 12.29 volts across the battery and the same at the alternator. I'm also getting the same at the VR. Is this not enough voltage to keep the thing going when all the lights/heat are on?

When I raise the RPM's nothing changes, no increase or decrease.

I thought I should have around 14 volts are the alternator.

Any idea's?

 

[Coolerman]

OK, I just went back and carefully read this thread again, and it finally clicked: Yellow Top Optima...

This battery needs at least 14-15 V to reach full charge. 13.8 volts is considered this batteries stable, fully charged, voltage. You are not even close.

Open your regulator, look at the FSM link that bsmith123 posted, and adjust the points so that you have 14V-15V at the battery at 2000 RPM. That will solve your charge problems.

 

[fjatheart]

OK, I just went back and carefully read this thread again, and it finally clicked: Yellow Top Optima...

This battery needs at least 14-15 V to reach full charge. 13.8 volts is considered this batteries stable, fully charged, voltage. You are not even close.

Open your regulator, look at the FSM link that bsmith123 posted, and adjust the points so that you have 14V-15V at the battery at 2000 RPM. That will solve your charge problems.

Coolerman,

I've read the "how to" on adjusting the VR. My voltage regulator has points on both sides. It looks like two sets of points side by side, like the picture you posted above. The left(passenger) side set of points are touching and the right (driver) are spread apart.

I worked on bending both sides farther and closer apart, is this going to show a change on volt meter as I bend?

Sorry to be such a newb.

 

[Coolerman]

You actually bend the regulator arm. The procedure starts on page 8-23 in the F engine FSM. There is a great pic (Fig. 8-44) showing what you bend. After dressing the points, the point gaps are set with feeler gauges. It takes a bit of practise to get these right. I had lots of practise on my old Ford trucks...

FYI the solid state regulators are also adjustable. They have a small adjustable resistor (pot) for the voltage.

 

[fjatheart]

Here is a picture of the passenger side of the VR. in this pic you can see the points touching.

Here is a picture of the driver side of the VR. Blurry pic, but on this side the points are not touching and look to be spread apart.


I move the points farther and closer and nothing changes. What the heck am I missing?

 

[Coolerman]

The voltage setting is done by bending the TOP circled piece. This adjusts the pull-in tension for the adjusting arm. Bending it UP increases the voltage, DOWN decreases it. This adjustment is VERY small so do it carefully.

Then you set the OPEN point gap circled to .25-45mm by bending the High Speed Point Holder (lower arm that's circled)

 

[bsmith123]

nice

Nice job with the pics Cooler, this post will be referred to again and again


FJATHEART

Just curious--- what color is the body of your yellow top?

 

[Coolerman]

The solid state regulators (at least the ones made by LazorLite) are adjustable by turning the small post shown circled. Much easier...

 

[fjatheart]

Coolerman and B Smith123! Thank so much for all your time in helping me figure this out. I really appreciate it. Once I finish with work I'm going to spend some more time on the VR.

 

[fjatheart]

Nice job with the pics Cooler, this post will be referred to again and again


FJATHEART

Just curious--- what color is the body of your yellow top?

Just got it from Advance Auto Parts a few months a go. The body of the bat. is a light gray color.