Alternator And Battery Isolator (1 Viewer)

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Feb 26, 2007
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Hello Guys,
I just bought a 150 amp isolator but I am not sure now if it is ok with the stock alternator, I read that it should be the same size as the alternator or higher rating..

I wonder what size is the stock alternator? How can I check/measure myself?

What are the risks and what about the fuse amp size, do I need one with the isolator which is electronic, china made..


Thank you
 
I'm looking at adding a 240 amp alternator to my rig and am wondering the same question as above. ^
Any insight on the topic anyone?
 
What?? Nobody has ever done a dual battery with an isolator??
Nobody has any thoughts, sage wisdom, silly stories, etc. about installing a dual battery isolator?
 
Potential load is going to be higher amperage than alternator output. IIRC, stock alt is only 90A. I'm running a 500A BlueSea Isolator. Overkill? Absolutely! But my independently sourced parts was only marginally more than what a kit runs.

Ironman offers both a 140A and 275A kit so I'm assuming that if 140A works 150A would also work.
 
I don't have direct experience myself but was interested in the question. Here are 5 threads I found that may give you some ideas on installation, components and capacities. My only direct advice is 1) If in doubt, put in a fuse and 2) be somewhat cautious about installing a larger capacity alternator without increased capacity wiring/components (see advice 1).

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/another-dual-battery-and-power-distribution-system.812297/#post-9279225


https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/planning-a-dual-battery-setup-and-accessories.521270/#post-6982858


https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ibs-dual-battery-system-from-slee.509873/#post-6863139


https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/t-max-dual-battery-install.607791/


https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/battery-charger-for-marine-grade-dual-battery-setup.735789/#post-8527933
 
I'd be suspect of your electronic isolator if you didn't pay at least $150 for it. Well designed/constructed solid state isolator/combiners with a 150A 100% duty cycle rating are not cheap.

Cheap ones generate a lot of heat, have a voltage drop of as much as 2v across the device, may not have a transient voltage suppression (snubber) circuit (or not a very good one), can have parasitic draw when off, and possibly even voltage feedback through the body.

If I was throwing down the coin for solid state I'd be looking at something like $350 for a 150A Perfect Switch. http://www.perfectswitch.com/orderingbuy/

By comparison electro-mechanical solenoids are simple, effective and cheap. Yes they'll wear out eventually, but I can buy probably 3-4 Cole-Hersee marine sealed 200a continuous duty $80 solenoids for the price of a single really good SS isolator. If a single solenoid can be expected to last ~5 years...?
 

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