"All_Terrain_Turtle" LX Build Thread

[mceagle555]

Upgraded rear brakes to Powerstop Z36 after putting them on my front brakes. Much improved stopping power and better pedal feel.

I also replaced the emergency brake shoes following the video guide below. By far the most difficult part is reattaching the shoes with the pin, spring, and button-disc. Since I didn't have the special driver tool referenced in the video, I finally was able to use a pair of needle nose pliers (slightly separated) to push in and rotate.

By replacing the emergency brake shoes and adjusting the tensioner, my emergency brake lever pull is now less to fully engage.

 

[mceagle555]

Probably the most impactful mod I've made to date. Highly recommend!

Kudos to @bhicks for the BH3D printed cupholder. Pics of various water bottles below:

• 40oz Green Hydroflask (w/rubber boot)
• 24oz Red Hydroflask
• 20oz Contigo coffee tumbler
• Route 44 Sonic Drink
• iPhone 12 Pro in "slim case"

 

[mceagle555]

Kaon shelf w/ small molle panels installed. Top-notch build quality.

Highly recommended for storing lightweight camping stuff. (Tarp, med kit, blanket, hammock, cleaning supplies, etc...)

 

[mceagle555]

Big thanks to @Eric Sarjeant & his team at Ed Martin Toyota for taking care of me when I drove through Indianapolis last month for work. I picked up a LC200 OEM takeoff rack.

Was great to talk shop with Jake about cruisers, Tacomas, and mountain biking.

Removed the OEM silver LX rack (shorter w/ 2 attachment points on each rail) and upgraded to the OEM black LC200 rack (longer w/ 3 attachment points on each rail.)

 

[Ossy]

Great build! How are the powerstop brakes? My 2014 is due for a brake job but I'd like to upgrade them over the stock brakes. Do you have a link to the exact front and rear powerstop parts that work with the 200? Thanks!

 

[mceagle555]

Did the AHC flush today. Highly recommended for those with higher mileage rigs!

Adding my info as someone who just did the flush procedure. Followed the @radman guide on page 8 in the AHC sticky thread that worked pretty well.

- 2008 LX570
- 166,000 miles
- TN vehicle it's whole life

Biggest surprise was finding my reservoir completely empty at the outset. Given the poor viewing of the high/low marks in the dark wheel well, initially I thought I just wasn't getting suction. After 45 mins of trying different tubes, I gave up and just started pumping the new fluid in, determined I would get all the old fluid out via bleeding.

Observations:

- Took 4.1L of old fluid out. Put 5L back in.
- First bleed was foamy and dark like stout beer. I assume this was because the reservoir was empty and air got into the lines, plus it is a 14-year old vehicle with no history of being done before.
- Have multiple shop rags on hand
- Ride is noticeably more confident when driving. Also less random "drops" after parking and turning vehicle off.

Tools:

- 5L AHC fluid (2 x 2.5L cans)
- 10mm socket
- 10mm ratcheting wrench w/ open end (to open bleeders)
- 12mm ratcheting wrench w/ open end (to remove bash guard over 5th accumulator)
- Pick or paint can opener tool (to remove the strainer)
- 3/8" OD vinyl tubing (for transferring fluid)
- 1/4" OD vinyl tubing (for bleeding)
- Transfer pump or 150-300ml syringe (To create suction for removing fluid & transferring new fluid in)
- New rubber bleeder valve caps

My process:

1. Park on level surface, drive up on 4 ramps (Harbor Freight)
2. Turn on LX570, put vehicle in LOW. Turn vehicle OFF.
3. Open rear cover in right rear wheel well w/ socket
4. Turn filler tube cap 90-degrees counterclockwise & remove strainer inside
5. Suction out old fluid. Put in container where you can measure total how much you've taken out.
6. Put new fluid in (Most put in 2.5L)
7. Turn on LX570, put vehicle in NORMAL. Allow to sit 60 seconds. Turn vehicle OFF.
8. Remove 3 12mm bolts holding 5th accumulator bash guard on.
9. Remove old rubber bleeder valve cap, attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops. (Approximately .3L) Close bleeder valve.
10. Turn on LX570. Make sure in NORMAL. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Turn vehicle OFF.
11. FRONT LEFT - Remove old rubber bleeder valve cap, attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops. (Approximately .3L) Close bleeder valve. (Mine came out foamy & dark brown like a stout beer.)
12. Turn on LX570. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Make sure in NORMAL. Turn vehicle OFF.
13. FRONT RIGHT- Remove old rubber bleeder valve cap, attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops. (Approximately .3L) Close bleeder valve. (Mine came out foamy & dark brown like a stout beer.)
14. Turn on LX570. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Make sure in NORMAL. Turn vehicle OFF.
15. Refill approx 1L of new fluid in reservoir.
16. REAR LEFT - Remove old rubber bleeder valve cap, attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops. (Approximately .3) Close bleeder valve. (Mine came out foamy & dark brown like a stout beer.)
17. Turn on LX570. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Make sure in NORMAL. Turn vehicle OFF.
18. REAR RIGHT - Remove old rubber bleeder valve cap, attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops. (Approximately .3L) Close bleeder valve. (Mine came out foamy & dark brown like a stout beer.)
19. Turn on LX570. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Make sure in NORMAL. Turn vehicle OFF.
20. Refill approx 1L of new fluid in reservoir.
21. FRONT LEFT - Attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops or runs PINK. (Approximately .3L) Close bleeder valve. Put on new rubber cap. (Second bleed had no foam)
22. Turn on LX570. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Make sure in NORMAL. Turn vehicle OFF.
23. FRONT RIGHT - Attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops or runs PINK. (Approximately .3L) Close bleeder valve. Put on new rubber cap. (Second bleed had no foam)
24. Turn on LX570. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Make sure in NORMAL. Turn vehicle OFF.
25. Put remaining new fluid in reservoir
26. REAR LEFT - Attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops or runs PINK. (Approximately .3L) Close bleeder valve. Put on new rubber cap. (Second bleed had no foam)
27. Turn on LX570. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Make sure in NORMAL. Turn vehicle OFF.
28. REAR RIGHT - Attach 1/4" OD tubing & run to waste container. Open bleeder and allow to drain until flow stops or runs PINK. (Approximately .3L) Close bleeder valve. Put on new rubber cap. (Second bleed had no foam)
29. Turn on LX570. Allow to sit 60 seconds for pump to refill accumulator. Make sure in NORMAL. Turn vehicle OFF.
30. Put bash guard back on 5th accumulator
31. Put strainer back in filler tube. Put filler tube cap back on. Put wheel well cover back on
32. Back off ramps. Test LO, NORMAL, HIGH.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

How long did it take for the ahc flush? Thank you for the in-depth instructions.

 

[mceagle555]

How long did it take for the ahc flush? Thank you for the in-depth instructions.

After I wasted 90 mins with two trips to Home Depot & Walmart, I would say it took me 2 hours total. I tend to be OCD on things, so I took my time.

 

[mceagle555]

Great build! How are the powerstop brakes? My 2014 is due for a brake job but I'd like to upgrade them over the stock brakes. Do you have a link to the exact front and rear powerstop parts that work with the 200? Thanks!

Complete Kit: K4117-36
Front Only: K4696-36
Rear Only: K3073-36

Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Pad and Rotor Kits | PowerStop

Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Kit uses our carbon-fiber ceramic formula for superior braking power. Designed specifically for heavy loads and towing.

www.powerstop.com

 

[mceagle555]

Got tired of all the chrome on the LX and started the process of using Plastidip to black out chrome pieces. I'm very pleased with how it turned out. I used it previously on my 4Runner and the key is many light coats. I think I did 7-8 coats and it turned out great. Total time invested was probably 3 hours, not including drying time.

- Door handles (taped off the inside grab that senses your hand)
- Window chrome "belt line" strip
- Back Lexus logo

Still need to do the rear hatch & around the tail lights.

 

[nbraun18]

Got tired of all the chrome on the LX and started the process of using Plastidip to black out chrome pieces. I'm very pleased with how it turned out. I used it previously on my 4Runner and the key is many light coats. I think I did 7-8 coats and it turned out great. Total time invested was probably 3 hours, not including drying time.

- Door handles (taped off the inside grab that senses your hand)
- Window chrome "belt line" strip
- Back Lexus logo

Still need to do the rear hatch & around the tail lights.

View attachment 3269733

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View attachment 3269737View attachment 3269742
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Looks awesome, I’ll be curious to see how the plastidip holds up particularly on the door handles

 

[Killacaviar]

Looks awesome, I’ll be curious to see how the plastidip holds up particularly on the door handles

My were starting to tear off within a month of use. Especially with kids. Wrap it or paint it seems to be best.

 

[mceagle555]

Even the dog likes the new yellow LED fogs.

 

[mceagle555]

New radiator, water pump, tensioner pulley, fan bracket, thermostat, fan coupler, and other odds & ends while I was in there.

 

[mceagle555]

Swapped from Michelin LTX AT2 P275/65/18 (Tundra takeoffs) to BFG KO2 LT275/70/18 found on FB marketplace.

Pics below show comparison of AHC High/Neutral/Low

Overall:

- Driving feels much more "planted"
- Slightly harsher ride, but having an LX, I can now use the Comfort-Sport control more
- Way better look & fills the wheel wells better
- No rubbing in Neutral height when at full lock

 

[mceagle555]

Switched from full synthetic 0w20 to 5w30. While the engine wasn't loud before, definitely quieted down a bit.

 

[mceagle555]

Replaced the 4 AHC accumulator globes today, followed by another AHC bleed. The process is detailed well in the main AHC Globe/Accumulator thread, but posted my procedure below if it helps anyone.

1. Remove both sets of metal guards protecting AHC globes (6 - 12mm bolts on each side)
2. Remove cover in passenger rear wheel well to access AHC revision
3. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
4. Put LX570 into LOW height.
5. Bleed passenger front bleed valve & re-tighten
6. Bleed passenger rear bleed valve & re-tighten
7. Remove passenger front accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb) - Note: I did NOT use the backup washer/spacer. I had them but didn't install them as it appears the new accumulators (bought in 2023) have a taller metal flange that the back-up washer/spacer filled in the 2008 accumulator. When I measured the old accumulator flange + spacer it was 6mm. The new accumulator was 6mm without the spacer, meaning the "built in" the spacer sometime between 2008-2021.
8. Remove passenger rear accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
9. Start LX570 and toggle NEUTRAL height (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
10. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
11. Time for driver side - Put LX570 back to LOW height
12. Bleed driver front bleed vale & re-tighten
13. Bleed passenger rear bleed value & re-tighten
14. Remove driver front accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
15. Remove driver rear accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
16. Start LX570 and toggle NEUTRAL height (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
17. Time for bleed procedure - While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
18. Bleed passenger front
19. Bleed passenger rear
20. Start LX570 and allow it to raise passenger side (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
21. Once in NEUTRAL, go back to LOW, then back to NEUTRAL, then HIGH, then NEUTRAL for good measure to do at least one cycle
22. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
23. Bleed driver front
24. Bleed driver rear
25. Start LX570 and allow it to raise driver side (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
26. Once in NEUTRAL, go back to LOW, then back to NEUTRAL, then HIGH, then NEUTRAL for good measure to do at least one cycle
27. Check final level - While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid to MAX fill line or slightly above (There is plenty of room in the tank and I rarely go into LOW mode, so I went above the MAX)

 

[32cls6speedmt]

Any difference in ride quality?

 

[mceagle555]

Any difference in ride quality?

Yes. Not night & day, but I would say:

1. Time from NEUTRAL to HIGH is much faster
2. All 3 drive modes feel more "tight" (in a good way)
3. When the system is adjusting to make things level, it is more controlled and less abrupt (For example: If you've been going 50 mph and then come to a stoplight, at times I've had the rear "drop" to become more level

 

[mceagle555]

Got an amazing deal on a new Sherpa Blanca roof rack shipped for under $700. I really wanted the Dissent Roof Rack, but I couldn't stomach paying over 2x the cost. Still need to do the fine adjustments, but took my time installing this evening.

I read a ton of threads comparing the Prinsu, Westcost, Victory 4x4, and Sherpa racks. Ended up with this one based on 3 factors:

1. Awesome rubber mounts to roof
2. Weight of load is carried by feet/mounts opposed to the screws holding the crossbars
3. Side rails are made of slightly thicker aluminum