"All_Terrain_Turtle" LX Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Started the first part of a full transmission fluid replacement (not flush). I chose to drop the pan and change out the filter.

Followed the procedure @NLScooby put together here

A few notes of things I did to make the job easier:

  • Sprayed PB Blaster oil on the 12 transmission pan bolts 2 weeks prior to doing the job, then again 1 week prior to the job (Bolts are notorious for snapping)
  • Built a DIY pressurized fluid dispenser for $25 using this video
  • Ordered 12 replacement bolts, since they are prone to snapping (91611-B0625)

Fluid amounts:

  • 2.9 qts: After drain bolt
  • 4.2 qts: After dropping pan
  • 4.9 qts: After removing filter
Refilled with 4.9 qts and then it got too dark to do the 2 qt at a time fluid exchange. I'll do it in the morning.

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Finished up a 14qt exchange over the weekend. A big thanks again to @NLScooby for putting together the video I linked to above. The only difference was that I used 3/8" ID clear plastic tubing to run from the radiator outlet to the waste bucket.

I didn't have a helper, so I had to run the 10 ft clear tubing to the drivers side so I could see the level changing while shifting through the gears. A few zip ties to an adjustable jack stand kept the waste fluid going into the waste container.

Pro Tip: Old carpeted floormats make great cushions when working on your back under your rig!

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what atf fluid did you use? any noticeable difference?

Toyota/lexus should recommend fluid exchange every 60k miles.
 
what atf fluid did you use? any noticeable difference?

Toyota/lexus should recommend fluid exchange every 60k miles.
Toyota WS.

I’ve seen other people recommend synthetics and compatible oils, but given the cost & complexity of transmissions, I’ll go with OEM spec every time.

Engine, front diff, rear diff, and transfer case I do high quality synthetics.
 
I have all the parts/fluids for this on the shelf (they've been there for about 8 months). I need to get on it.
 
I have all the parts/fluids for this on the shelf (they've been there for about 8 months). I need to get on it.

Take your time. Also, take lots of pictures to remind yourself how much fluid you've taken out & put in. Since it becomes a repetitive process, you can easily forget how much is in/out.

If you are dropping the pan & changing the filter, make sure to (1) use a penetrating oil a couple days before on the bolts and (2) use a small 1/4" drive ratchet to apply a very small amount of torque at a time.

Shifting is noticeably better afterwards, though the shifting was already great before.
 
Take your time. Also, take lots of pictures to remind yourself how much fluid you've taken out & put in. Since it becomes a repetitive process, you can easily forget how much is in/out.

If you are dropping the pan & changing the filter, make sure to (1) use a penetrating oil a couple days before on the bolts and (2) use a small 1/4" drive ratchet to apply a very small amount of torque at a time.

Shifting is noticeably better afterwards, though the shifting was already great before.
I have a filter and gasket and full set of replacement bolts for the trans pan. My truck Is southern aged, so rust hasn’t been an issue. I may still try to get under and spray the penetrating oil.
 
I may still try to get under and spray the penetrating oil.
Recommended! I broke off a bolt on my pretty not rusty Texas sourced truck. It was surprisingly easy to twist off. . .
 
Replaced the Heater T's. They were original to my May 2008 built LX. Honestly they felt just a solid as the new ones I replaced them with.

One note: When putting the hose clamps back on, make sure to align the hose clamps with the indentations on the old hoses. I had one hose clamp fully seated, but rotated 90% from where it was previously. I got a slow drip leak on the exhaust. It went away when I rotated it back to the original position.

Afterwards, gave her a wash and ceramic way spray. (Turtle brand of course)

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Replaced the Heater T's. They were original to my May 2008 built LX. Honestly they felt just a solid as the new ones I replaced them with.

One note: When putting the hose clamps back on, make sure to align the hose clamps with the indentations on the old hoses. I had one hose clamp fully seated, but rotated 90% from where it was previously. I got a slow drip leak on the exhaust. It went away when I rotated it back to the original position.

Afterwards, gave her a wash and ceramic way spray. (Turtle brand of course)

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Nice. I ordered the complete T and hose kit during the recent sale, hopefully it gets in soon.
 
Installed the GROM VLine2 after the most recent group buy.

Since there are at least 3 head unit options for 2008-2011 LX, mine is a 2008 Mark Levinson w/ 6 disc CD-changer & hard drive based NAV. With this head unit, following the install process linked here, I had no hanging cords left over.

Overall: Highly recommended for those in the Apple ecosystem. If you're in Android ecosytem, there may be better options.

  • Wired CarPlay works flawlessly
  • Wireless CarPlay works 98% of the time (Toggle phone's wifi on/off if you have issues)
  • From car start to screen is about 10 seconds (Not bad, given you should probably let your engine settle down a bit before putting into gear)
  • "Swipe" functionality isn't great; you'll like things better if you use the arrows (This is a result of older capacitive screen)
  • Hit the "Disc/Aux" button 1-2 times to show CarPlay
  • Sound quality is just as good as from CD; better than bluetooth
  • Hit "Scan" button 3 times to switch screen from CarPlay to sound settings (Bass, Mid, Treble, Fader) --> Adjust to your liking --> Hit "Scan" button 3 times to return back to CarPlay
    • This is probably my #1 tip if you have crappy sound
    • Remember that sound settings are specific to each input, so make sure to adjust the settings for this input

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  • Hit "Scan" button 3 times to switch screen from CarPlay to sound settings (Bass, Mid, Treble, Fader) --> Adjust to your liking --> Hit "Scan" button 3 times to return back to CarPlay
    • This is probably my #1 tip if you have crappy sound
    • Remember that sound settings are specific to each input, so make sure to adjust the settings for this input
I don’t have a “Scan” button (2010 LX), I’ve got:

- AM/FM
- SAT
- DISC
- AUX/USB

None of them will give me the results you get from hitting the scan button. The only way I can get into sound settings is through the audio setup menu when on a different input, which makes me now think I’ve not been adjusting anything in the CarPlay space.

Hmmm…
 
I don’t have a “Scan” button (2010 LX), I’ve got:

- AM/FM
- SAT
- DISC
- AUX/USB

None of them will give me the results you get from hitting the scan button. The only way I can get into sound settings is through the audio setup menu when on a different input, which makes me now think I’ve not been adjusting anything in the CarPlay space.

Hmmm…
Shoot GROM a message via their support page. Looks like they need to update their manual for the LEX6 (your 2010), as they show the "Scan" button on page 12 of their manual. They probably have a special sequence for it.

On the 2013+, you hold down the "Menu" button.
 
I don’t have a “Scan” button (2010 LX), I’ve got:

- AM/FM
- SAT
- DISC
- AUX/USB

None of them will give me the results you get from hitting the scan button. The only way I can get into sound settings is through the audio setup menu when on a different input, which makes me now think I’ve not been adjusting anything in the CarPlay space.

Hmmm…
There is a "Shortcut" that says "Factory UI". You do it from the GROM Android launcher (If you are in Carplay mode, click the widget that says "GROM" to get back to the Android launcher). Hit the + button in one of the open fields and then select the "Shortcuts" tab and find the one called "Factory UI". Use that button to get you back to the OEM interface. If when you click it, it goes to Maps, or whatever your screen normally goes to, click the "Audio" button directly under the screen and you should be on the "USB" audio input and the title/artist/album fields will all say VLINE. You can hit "Sound" from there to adjust the USB input. After you are done, hit the "Aux/USB" button twice to get back to GROM screen.

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There is a "Shortcut" that says "Factory UI". You do it from the GROM Android launcher (If you are in Carplay mode, click the widget that says "GROM" to get back to the Android launcher). Hit the + button in one of the open fields and then select the "Shortcuts" tab and find the one called "Factory UI". Use that button to get you back to the OEM interface. If when you click it, it goes to Maps, or whatever your screen normally goes to, click the "Audio" button directly under the screen and you should be on the "USB" audio input and the title/artist/album fields will all say VLINE. You can hit "Sound" from there to adjust the USB input. After you are done, hit the "Aux/USB" button twice to get back to GROM screen.

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Just added the shortcut on my GROM as well. Thanks for the tip @lx200inAR!
 
@mceagle555 - how is the phone through the GROM? I tried one of the other CarPlay solutions (Naviplus) and there was an echo that made the hands free phone useless - I think that was the straw that broke the camel's back and I uninstalled it.

I'm tied into the Apple ecosystem, and I would love a usable CarPlay solution, even if just for the apple watch integration, calling, texting, google maps and maybe Spotify via the factory infotainment.

Android isn't of any use/interest to me - the LC screen resolution isn't good enough to make things like Gaia GPS or OnX usable on the Android side of the house. I tried it and was very disappointed. The iPad mini on a Ram mount is working great for that.

None of this is very high priority on my list, but it sure would be nice to have a workable solution, and if GROM is there, I'm in.
 
@mceagle555 - how is the phone through the GROM? I tried one of the other CarPlay solutions (Naviplus) and there was an echo that made the hands free phone useless - I think that was the straw that broke the camel's back and I uninstalled it.

I'm tied into the Apple ecosystem, and I would love a usable CarPlay solution, even if just for the apple watch integration, calling, texting, google maps and maybe Spotify via the factory infotainment.

Android isn't of any use/interest to me - the LC screen resolution isn't good enough to make things like Gaia GPS or OnX usable on the Android side of the house. I tried it and was very disappointed. The iPad mini on a Ram mount is working great for that.

None of this is very high priority on my list, but it sure would be nice to have a workable solution, and if GROM is there, I'm in.

@CharlieS - Regarding the phone, I didn't hook up the included microphone for the sole reason that I prefer Apple Airpods for phone calls over any other bluetooth option. I work remotely in technology and don't want to subject people on conference calls to ANY unnecessary background noise. (We've all been on calls with "that guy.") I trust the noise-suppression on the Airpods microphone MUCH more than any GROM or Lexus microphone.

Hence, if I have a call coming in, I just pop in one or both of my airpods, hit accept on the Carplay interface or iPhone or Apple Watch, and take the call from my Airpods. Once done, it goes back to music/directions through CarPlay.

Note: This isn't a knock against GROM. On my other vehicles, I don't use the built in mic either, just for the courtesy of others I am on calls with.
 
Thanks. I guess I'm that guy. :(

I have both the old air pods and air pod pro, but I don't generally carry them around with me outside the house.
 

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