Yay!
All sorts of post torsion bar reindexing fun! Pics included!
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So first off, the wet looking stuff is actually Fluid Film (undercarriage coating to protect against rust). I'm new to wrenching and I'm guessing my suspension parts didn't need to be sprayed with it, but I got a little carried away.
What you're looking at in the photos above is the front driver side. I heard some clicking today while driving down the road from the driver side so I lifted the truck and saw the torn tie rod end boot? Also, the CV's are definitely slinging grease (inner boot?) but they don't appear to be ripped. I zip tied for now. I already have pfran's clamps but I didn't get a chance to pick up any grease to the boots back up. I got an alignment yesterday (unneeded detail).
So my question to you guys is, where should I go from here? I'm getting more and more comfortable wrenching and have built out a good set of tools.
What you're looking at in the photos above is the front driver side. I heard some clicking today while driving down the road from the driver side so I lifted the truck and saw the torn tie rod end boot? Also, the CV's are definitely slinging grease (inner boot?) but they don't appear to be ripped. I zip tied for now. I already have pfran's clamps but I didn't get a chance to pick up any grease to the boots back up. I got an alignment yesterday (unneeded detail).
So my question to you guys is, where should I go from here? I'm getting more and more comfortable wrenching and have built out a good set of tools.
Do they make a tie rod end boot kit for the 100 series?
I learned the hard way cranking up to 21.5 in the front rips boots. I'm at 20.5 right now but still riding on torn boots from weeks ago when I thought I was at 19.75; turns out I was really sitting at 21.5 and pop! Second set this has happened to me with after hitting 21.5 in the front.
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
Ugh. Yeah these pics are solid proof that there is only so much lift you can push with TBARS. Body lift is next?
So assuming that the stock components are in good shape, what is the safe front height with stock component? Mine currently at 19.5. I am a bit hesitant cranking the front and causing problem. I do need to replace the rear springs, so it seems that I need to crank the front a bit to match the rear height.
Bctlex - I recently replaced the rear springs with OME 865's and put a few turns on the stock TB's. I'm currently at 20.5" in the front and 21.5" in the rear and haven't seen any signs of the CV boots tearing or leaking (knock on wood). It seems that if you stay somewhere in neighborhood of 20.5 you'll be fine...I'll let you know if something changes.
For what it's worth, I've been running with my front hub-center to fender at 21.5" for almost 3 years.
No torn boots.
Some weeping from the outer boots, but I re-banded them with pfran's clamps a year ago and all is well.
I am also running a diff drop.
No torn boots.
Some weeping from the outer boots, but I re-banded them with pfran's clamps a year ago and all is well.
I am also running a diff drop.
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I'm getting it checked out by the only shop I trust with my LC down here in San Diego (they're not the cheapest guys in town but they know these trucks well). I'll let you guys know what the verdict is sometime tomorrow!
Front: 22"
Rear: 23.25"
23,000 miles and all's good. However, very soon after the lift was done, the axles went. But the new axles seem very happy. As has been stated a bunch - it's not the lift, it's the change.
Also, that 1.25" difference b/w F and R is hugely important. Initially, my 100 was damn near level, and holy $%#* did it suck - rode like a brick, the steering was vague.. it sucked. Dropped it about .75 up front it felt like factory. Gotta have that rake.
(the Dissent Offroad bumper and Warn 9500ti only dropped the front about .25"; the other .50 was from backing off the bolts)
Rear: 23.25"
23,000 miles and all's good. However, very soon after the lift was done, the axles went. But the new axles seem very happy. As has been stated a bunch - it's not the lift, it's the change.
Also, that 1.25" difference b/w F and R is hugely important. Initially, my 100 was damn near level, and holy $%#* did it suck - rode like a brick, the steering was vague.. it sucked. Dropped it about .75 up front it felt like factory. Gotta have that rake.
(the Dissent Offroad bumper and Warn 9500ti only dropped the front about .25"; the other .50 was from backing off the bolts)
But was your issue truly "rake", or was it just "too darn high in the front"?
If it were just rake, you could've also solved your issue by just raising the rear 0.75", and leaving the front alone.
Why is it, that the "rake"solution is always to drop the front?
Maybe because it's not really the rake, but too much front height?
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I know its' not loaded up or anything, but purely from an appearance standpoint I think you nailed the perfect ratio of front to back & clearance above the tires.Front: 22"
Rear: 23.25"
23,000 miles and all's good. However, very soon after the lift was done, the axles went. But the new axles seem very happy. As has been stated a bunch - it's not the lift, it's the change.
Also, that 1.25" difference b/w F and R is hugely important. Initially, my 100 was damn near level, and holy $%#* did it suck - rode like a brick, the steering was vague.. it sucked. Dropped it about .75 up front it felt like factory. Gotta have that rake.
(the Dissent Offroad bumper and Warn 9500ti only dropped the front about .25"; the other .50 was from backing off the bolts)
Could be the overall change that tends to rip original boots at 21.5. My first '99 had 280K and my current has 159K. Both ripped at 21.5.
I have new axles on order and plan on OME 865 in the rear. I will probably bump up to 21 smooth after the new axles are on and leave it.
I have new axles on order and plan on OME 865 in the rear. I will probably bump up to 21 smooth after the new axles are on and leave it.
Thanks! I am thinking of adding 865 myself. Sounds like a lot of folks here use 865.
I haven't figured out how to adjust a coil spring
A spacer or taller coil spring perhaps?
^that's^ funny. I wrote that... then though "jLB is gonna say to use a spacer", so I edited to the "easier" thing. I mean come on man... you're pushing this one a bit... right? You get that it'a a ****ton easier to dial the Tbs up or down to get the perfect rake - as opposed to tearing into the rear suspension and swapping springs, adding spacers... right?
Maybe I'm poking a little.
At least a rear spacer shouldn't require another alignment. I agree that a number of newly lifted 100 series can be "fixed" with adding some "rake" back to the vehicle, but I don't think that the "rake" is what fixes the issue, so much as it is lowering the front to an acceptable level.
I accept that I am in the minority on mud with my opinion on "rake". To me, the "rake" argument seems to be a simple/polite way of saying "you got too excited with a wrench, and cranked the front end too high", without having to explain the limitations of the 100 series torsion bar IFS.
I don't think it's that simple. I'm convinced it's more about the geometry. Caster changes when rake changes. Have you driven a 100 with no rake? It's odd... totally different feel, and odd behaviors like weak or total lack of self-centering wheel, e.g. not unwinding when you let go of the wheel. Weight-transfer may play a part too - at least in the ride. Either way, dropping .75" was magical.
And technically, a rear lift (spacer) would require a front alignment.
And technically, a rear lift (spacer) would require a front alignment.
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