aisin locking hub studs

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the gimpey one

the gimpey one

10 Year 15 Year
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Apr 19, 2010
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300
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pickens, sc
Can the studs be replaced on the aisin locking hubs? Screwed the majority of mine up trying to remove one washers. No one locally sells brass drifts. Last time I checked harbor freight they didn't sell them either.

Other question. Is this snap ring correct? I thought it shoud have holes in the end. Impossible to reinstall!

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Yup, that is the pain in ass snap ring. Lisle ? makes a flat blade snap ring pliers, but these rings will fail if spread too wide also. I don't know of a replacement, tho someone here might.

Don't beat on those studs to get washers loose, (or at least put a nut on them) just insert a really thin screwdriver/knife blade into slots, and twist gently. Try different ones until you can get a few loose.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-44900-Lock-Ring-Plier/dp/B0009OR974/?tag=ihco-20
 
If you're not already buttoned up I followed the Mud threads on this and that recommended to get a bolt that screws into the axle (can't remember what size that is). Pull the axle out using channel locks on that bolt while you're using the above snap ring pliers to reinstall your snap ring. Makes it a heck of a lot easier.
 
Yes, new studs are available.

Actually, that's a retaining ring, not a snap ring. Those pliers above make it waaaaay easier.

Use a 8mmx1.25 bolt threaded into the axle end to pull it out to expose the groove and to hold it out while you install the lock ring.
 
Spike Strip said:
Yes, new studs are available.

Actually, that's a retaining ring, not a snap ring. Those pliers above make it waaaaay

Use a 8mmx1.25 bolt threaded into the axle end to pull it out to expose the groove and to hold it out while you install the lock ring.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the bolt dimension. Will be a day or two before I tackle it as I have to order new studs.
 
Spike Strip said:
Yes, new studs are available.

Actually, that's a retaining ring, not a snap ring. Those pliers above make it waaaaay easier.

Use a 8mmx1.25 bolt threaded into the axle end to pull it out to expose the groove and to hold it out while you install the lock ring.
Click to expand...

Just do everything as Spike suggests and you will be amazed at how simple this job is.
 
I can do this without pulling the entire hub assembly correct? Ordered the studs finally just waiting for them to arrive.
 
use aluminum flat bar in absence of brass drift. I got a brass rod from McMaster Carr 1" x 15" for like $10 bucks, cut it in half and left one half in each cruiser, along with a suitable whacker (3# sledge head fits nicely in the bag...)

OEM hub studs available.

use that set of retaining ring pliers- again, one in each tool kit.

keep extra studs, cone washers and nuts along with a star washer, retainer clip, lock nut and dust seal in the rig. I keep a set of my old bearings packed in grease in a zipper bag, as well.

HTH
 
Gimpey,
Correct, you do not need to pull the hub to remove the studs. OEM studs are available as mentioned above. There are also ARP replacement studs for $$$$$$ or japanese replacement studs from marlin crawler.

A brass drift is mandatory for working on these hubs without damaging parts.

Regarding the snap ring. It is not meant to have holes. You are confusing the snap ring with retaining rings which have the holes in the end.

If your hub dial is stiff, hard to turn, or you don't feel the detent click when it goes to free or locked position, then you should consider removing the hub dial from the cover and replacing the o-ring, detent ball, and spring. The parts are cheap and available from marlin crawler or OEM. Other sources out there too.

Special Tools you should own:
54mm hub socket ~$17
snap ring pliers
Brass Drift

None of these are very expensive when compared to screwing up something and having to reopen the hub.
 
Randy88FJ62 said:
Gimpey,
Correct, you do not need to pull the hub to remove the studs. OEM studs are available as mentioned above. There are also ARP replacement studs for $$$$$$ or japanese replacement studs from marlin crawler.

A brass drift is mandatory for working on these hubs without damaging parts.

Regarding the snap ring. It is not meant to have holes. You are confusing the snap ring with retaining rings which have the holes in the end.

If your hub dial is stiff, hard to turn, or you don't feel the detent click when it goes to free or locked position, then you should consider removing the hub dial from the cover and replacing the o-ring, detent ball, and spring. The parts are cheap and available from marlin crawler or OEM. Other sources out there too.

Special Tools you should own:
54mm hub socket ~$17
snap ring pliers
Brass Drift

None of these are very expensive when compared to screwing up something and having to reopen the hub.
Click to expand...
Got all that except brass drift. Will pick some up. New studs arrived today. Will swap them soon.
 
McMaster Carr is an invaluable resource...
 
and don't forget, home depot aluminum bars are softer than a lot of brass drifts...but still hard enough to crack those cone washers loose.
 
g-man said:
After you get the nuts off the studs, simply hammer the side of the hub and the washers come loose. No need to pry with a screwdriver or drive them with a drift.
Click to expand...


sometimes, this works. the rest of the time, I find it necessary to tap them inward toward the hub with a soft drift and hammer. I put the drift on the end of the stud, and drive in...as the stud is driven down into its bore, it lets the taper lock break loose and pulls the cone washer back out with it...besides, you don't want to whack the cast aluminum freewheel hub flange too hard with a hardened steel tool; it might crack, or bulge...
 
g-man said:
After you get the nuts off the studs, simply hammer the side of the hub and the washers come loose. No need to pry with a screwdriver or drive them with a drift.
Click to expand...

Oh if it only worked like that every time. Unfortunately, many of the hub assemblies that roll into my shop have been beat on pretty hard in the past in order to release the cone washers. Often to the point that the conical area on the flange is distorted.

The main tool required is often patience. I use anti seize on the cone washers and the threads as well. It helps a little but they can still be a PIA.
 
g-man said:
After you get the nuts off the studs, simply hammer the side of the hub and the washers come loose. No need to pry with a screwdriver or drive them with a drift.
Click to expand...

And deform the hub. IOW don't beat on the side of the hub.
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
sometimes, this works. the rest of the time, I find it necessary to tap them inward toward the hub with a soft drift and hammer. I put the drift on the end of the stud, and drive in...as the stud is driven down into its bore, it lets the taper lock break loose and pulls the cone washer back out with it...besides, you don't want to whack the cast aluminum freewheel hub flange too hard with a hardened steel tool; it might crack, or bulge...
Click to expand...


I'm not talking about going to town on this hub. An educated elbow helps. The aluminum mars (as in hammer indentations) ..this to me evidence that it is not all that brittle that it would crack simply by hitting it a littler harder than a tap. If you're worried about marring up your hubs then put a 2x4 against it first. I prob hit it with about the same pressure I would use to knock off a bearing buddy. Anyway it has worked well for me in the past.
 
whatever gets you off the trail!
 
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