air intake pipe from k&n or airaid (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 18, 2003
Threads
696
Messages
8,841
Location
Oriental, NC
Has anyone fitted this pipe? Looks like it would help. I have dt headers, gutted cats and 2.5 ems exhaust and more air would be nice. Also, did anyone dyno this mod? I don't see it for the 2004 uzj100 however they do have it for the 2004 Toyota Tundra 4.7. Any insights greatly appreciated.

1616602044678.png
 
Last edited:
Does the stock 100 air intake pipe match the part number of the Tundra? If so it might work. I was thinking of this mod for my 2020 Avalon (Camry K&N intake pipe only, not the filter) upgrade from a Camry.
 
I thought I had seen somewhere that @LARRYG36 had recently done this.
 
Does the stock 100 air intake pipe match the part number of the Tundra? If so it might work. I was thinking of this mod for my 2020 Avalon (Camry K&N intake pipe only, not the filter) upgrade from a Camry.
They don’t list this for the lc that i could find.
 
Saw the mod on brag book.

Then found this for the tundra. I just need the pipe as I am running to factory air box because of a snork.

The tundra is much wider so maybe this and cut the pipe down.

 
Saw the mod on brag book.

Then found this for the tundra. I just need the pipe as I am running to factory air box because of a snork.

The tundra is much wider so maybe this and cut the pipe down.

This makes sense because on the 04 cruiser the MAF is on the airbox lid.
 
The Tundra/Sequoia intake pipe is not a perfect fit in the 100, but it will fit. I installed a junkyard Tundra/Sequoia intake pipe after the original developed a crack.
1616611492315.png


I assume the aftermarket part could be made to fit as well.
 
The guy on Facebook responded. Here is what he used. I’m ordering and will document.

09E90E61-354B-46F5-82D1-0CF5D884D6B8.jpeg
 
how much more, if any, cfms does that tube allow to flow through vs the factory setup? I will never use an oiled filter
I’m not using the filter. It has to help a little. The factory piece is crazy complicated.
 
I've been debating this as well as I am getting headers as well.

I had one on my 2011 Tahoe and it made a difference in the butt dyno and added some sound.
Headers were dynoed. 😁
 
I’m not using the filter. It has to help a little. The factory piece is crazy complicated.
I'd be half tempted, just to simplify the process of swapping passenger side coil packs, without the stress of "is this old piece of brittle plastic going to break, as I manipulate it out of the way?" and "why is the intake tube covering the passenger side head?"
 
Last edited:
I'd be half tempted, just to simplify the process of swapping passenger side coil packs, without the stress of "is this old piece of brittle plastic going to break, as I manipulate it out of the way..." and "why is the intake tube covering the passenger side head?"
That was some of my reasoning in sourcing a OEM Tundra intake. I looked at the K&N tube, but the price was way more than the $20 I paid for a Mr. T junkyard tube...
 
Save your money. You'll not notice anything because this hardware doesn't control the power - the ECU does via fuel control. For comparison, the LC and the Tundra's engines were rated at the same or very similar HP (year dependent) with different exhaust and intake piping. Companies arguing differently are in it to make money...not to make your engine make more power.
 
I'd be half tempted, just to simplify the process of swapping passenger side coil packs, without the stress of "is this old piece of brittle plastic going to break, as I manipulate it out of the way..." and "why is the intake covering the passenger side head?"
Same.
Save your money. You'll not notice anything because this hardware doesn't control the power - the ECU does via fuel control. For comparison, the LC and the Tundra's engines were rated at the same or very similar HP (year dependent) with different exhaust and intake piping. Companies arguing differently are in it to make money...not to make your engine make more power.
agreed except the dt headers were dynoed and had real gains. Changes the truck. Just a bit more would be good. And engine access.
 
I’m not using the filter. It has to help a little. The factory piece is crazy complicated.
thought the factory configuration was to limit noise. Isn't the engine pulling almost the same air flow from both?
 
Last edited:
After seeing the post on FB, I put the K&N 57-9027 pipe for the 4.7L V8 Tundra on my LC100. My factory air intake resonator cracked and even after trying to repair it, I was probably having some small vacuum leak. A new OEM replacement would be like $400. You could probably get one from a part out or from a junkyard for way cheaper, but I didn't have time to dig and look. The cheapest fix would've probably been a take-off or junkyard stock intake from a V8 Tundra. Putting the K&N pipe in WILL NOT make power and WILL NOT save money haha. In California, I need a "legal" intake with all vacuum and EVAP lines connected to pass smog. The K&N filter also comes with a CARB exempt sticker so that helps with passing smog.

That said, if you want to do this, this is what you need.
K&N 57-9027 kit. You don't need the filter part. $200 on ebay.
2x 3.5" to 3.25" PVC reducer with hose clamps. I used Spectre Part no 9551
1x 1/4" T-connector (got on amazon)
maybe an extra 3/4" hose clamp

The K&N pipe is 3.5" OD and the Land Cruiser filter box and intake manifold both have 3.25" (83mm) tubes. You'll need to reconnect the (4) various vacuum tubes from the stock intake to the (3) hose barbs on the K&N pipe. That's why you need the 1/4" T-connector. Leave the MAF sensor in the Land Cruiser air intake filter box. Plug up the MAF mounting point on the K&N pipe using the gasket, plug, and screws included in the K&N kit.

RED line - 1/2" fuel line, comes in K&N kit and I added a hose clamp here on the K&N side
GREEN - 3/4" fuel line, comes in K&N kit
BLUE - 1/4" tube. Doesn't really need hose clamps. Cut the hose included in the kit so you can hook everything up to the T-connector (circled in yellow)

kn1.jpg

kn2.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom