AIR CONDITIONER INSPECTION - DO I look like a sucker?

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Joined
Oct 27, 2003
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Problem: My AC has been out like 2 months. Living in CA, I doesn't get that hot....sometimes and I have not had the time to get it checked out.

Just did and they said the "high pressure" needle is wiggling and not steady like it is supposed to be. He said two options:

1.) replace a valve = $644 out the door and that might not work

2.) if fix above doesn't work then then might need to replace air compressor? = another $600.

What gives????
 
Not hot in California? Some parts maybe.
I'd get a second opinion.
:cool:
 
I'm not sure what part of CA you're in, but it's gets pretty toasty in Sacramento in the summer. Unless you don't consider highs of 110 degrees hot :eek:

I agree with Russ. Check with another shop.

What year's you 80?
 
I am in San Diego, coastal and east to about the 15. Hot as hell yesterday but cool breeze, more sun today.


93 fzj

Yeah, I am going to get another opinion
 
LOL!!! with $1200 you can probably install your own ac from a donor rig. Some shops are a joke, hard to trust them. IMO ac is last on the list unless you live in Death Valley. I took care of all my PM first and then invested a few bills on my ac.
 
I know. I mean G-ZUS. What the hell? How can they say with a straight face, this cost 600+ but I don't know if that will fix it?

So, what is good place to take for AC? I mean know some midas-type places have a stall for that sheit.

Anybody know prices? I mean $640 for an "expansion valve" and labor? Seems like highway robbery. Those are lawyer wages! WTF, is up with mechanics gouging people like that? He said that if that did not fix they would have to install a new AC compressor that is $450. Their labor rate is $79 per hour... to make it worse.
 
I have had great luck with Ronnie's in escondido. In the past they have found and fixed leaks, did a 134 conversion, as well as recore a radiator and weld a split gas tank. Always great work at competitive prices.

Ronnie's
631 Enterprise Street
Escondido CA 92029
Tel (760) 746-6932
 
ElJefe said:
I have had great luck with Ronnie's in escondido. In the past they have found and fixed leaks, did a 134 conversion, as well as recore a radiator and weld a split gas tank. Always great work at competitive prices.

Ronnie's
631 Enterprise Street
Escondido CA 92029
Tel (760) 746-6932

So, what are competitive prices? What is his labor rate?
 
I'm not sure what the per hour labor rate is there. It's been a couple of years since I have needed any AC/Rad work done... knock on wood. I used to work right across the street from them so they were a shop of convenience for me, but they always ended up cheaper than the other estimates and did great work... I don't work accross the street anymore but I still use Ronnies. In fact, at the time I would watch the escondildo auto park stealerships, as well as other shops in the area run cars in and out of there every day. I think I paid $225 for the full conversion from R12 to R134a in a grey market Euro 79 BMW 635CSI which included fixing a leak, completely cleaning out the system, new expansion valve, a bunch of new seals, recalibrating the system pressures and timing for 134a, and a recharge with 134a... FWIW, that was probably 7-8 years ago but he still beat the next best guestimate by a couple hundred bucks at the time and the AC still blew cold when I donated tha car in December.
 
I have some vague recollection that there is indeed a test listed in the FSM where you can tell something from the needle wiggling...
better check that...
 
What you guys are forgetting is that whenever the system is opened, it is "proper" to evacuate and completely refill the system. That alone is ~$200. Often the dryer is replaced because it makes sense to do so.


I'm not saying this is necessarily the case here, just don't be so quick to judge unless you are absolutely sure of what all is involved. Some things may seem exorbinantly expensive when in reality that is what the mechanic has to charge to make a living.

:cheers:
 
Did you check the metal line where it joins the radiator on the right side (as viewed from the driver's seat - opposite the battery)? If it's wet there from A/C freon/oil leaking I may have a fix for you.

I'm assuming your system simply leaked down its freon and the internal pressure shut off valve kicked in to prevent compressor damage? Yes, or did something else happen you're keeping a secret to prevent diagnosis??

DougM
 
e9999 said:
I have some vague recollection that there is indeed a test listed in the FSM where you can tell something from the needle wiggling...
better check that...

Don't have a floor shop manual. Most I did was change oil and filter and change headlamp bulb
 
IdahoDoug said:
Did you check the metal line where it joins the radiator on the right side (as viewed from the driver's seat - opposite the battery)? If it's wet there from A/C freon/oil leaking I may have a fix for you.

I'm assuming your system simply leaked down its freon and the internal pressure shut off valve kicked in to prevent compressor damage? Yes, or did something else happen you're keeping a secret to prevent diagnosis??

DougM


No Doug just ran out. No I did not check the metal line where it joins the radiator. I will check.


Oh btw, the sway problems I had were not fixed. I am running my tires at 38lbs. The michelans (all new) go from 32-45. It is rough but I get better pick up and gas mileage. Still really annoyed by the sway though. Shocks and coils are all in the right places (Ie...OME)
 
factory service manual? get one. it will greatly pay for itself like on the occasions that you deal with a
mechanic who might be ripping you off. well worth it
 

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