Air Compressor questions

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caladin

Noob, but trying to learn
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I searched and read the first fewpages of threads and didn't see the answers to my questions(after that it seemed to wander off topic). I was hoping y'all could help.

I'm looking at getting the Home depot husky 60 gal compressor
3.2 Running HP 60 Gal. Compressor-VT6314 at The Home Depot

It's the same as the CH 60 gal, just with a husky label on it.
Watched the video on how to install it on youtube.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...sLJ075fKw&sig2=HItmWt4EBRFM2AdGqCRYxw&cad=rja

Most of it makes sense but they say not to use a dryer cord? why? is this just to sell their specific cord? I've got a 30a 220v drop in my garage I had put when the built it. it's got a 25 a plug because the electrician didnt' have a 30a so I told him to throw a 25a in and If i need it I'd replace it.(which I still have not done) (There was alot mor arguing than that, but i ran out of care points and that was the compromise)

I have other 220 stuff I just used a 220 dryer cord of the heaviest gauge they had and is seems to work fine (tig welder, ceramic kiln) The wires don't get hot.No warmer than the wiring into the unit.

Is it because of vibration? Theirs has thicker outer insulation? Am I missing something? If the wire is the right gauge, that's all there is right? I want to be able to plug it in an dun plug it to use the other stuff. any reason not to plug a 15 a motor with a 20 a rating for the whole thing into a 30 circuit? Any reason not to use a dryer plug if it's 10g ? 12g?

20 a system plugged into 30a, does not exceed the 200% rule for wiring.is ther a reason not to supply the extra to power it? (one guy on a list said so but it made no sense to me)

Also do I really need to keep it 18 in from the wall? that seems totally excessive to me. 4"-6" seem fine to me... Am i missing something, as long as there is room for air to get to it...

why are they being that way, just worried about lawsuits, give instructions noone will follow so they can argue out of suits in court?

Or am i totally off base?
Thanks,

Cal-
 
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I have a similar compressor, mine is a Porter-Cable 60gal, I have mine on a 20A breaker. I was doing everything new, so I have a single-gang box, 10GA wire, and a NEMA 6-20 receptacle and plug. I want to put mine in some sort of enclosure to cut down on the noise, but I do worry about the heat. I was using it the other day pretty hard it it got rather warm, even the tank.

Mine is about a foot from the corner, it's still on the pallet it came on. I will eventually cut the pallet down and anchor it to the floor, a little closer to the wall. I also want to plumb the intake to the outside, I can tell a lot of the noise is coming from there.
 
The only thing that comes to mind regarding the feed wire might be an oil/chemical-resistent sheath...
 
It is fine with the dryer cord as long as the amperage on the welder doesn't go over what the cable is rated for.
 
Sounds like you're worrying way too much. I used BX cable with stranded wire for my input power on my air compressor. Nothing wrong with dryer cord. Is this something that is going to see lots of oil, sunlight, traffic?

Internet is full of incorrect info. Take some time to wade through the garbage.

The receptacle you install will depend on gauge of the wire from breaker to receptacle. 10 gauge at 230V is good for 30 amps. 8 gauge is good for 40 amps at 230v. 6 gauge is good for 50 amps at 230v.

Your standard welder plug (nema 6-50P), will say it is rated for 50 amps. You can use smaller gauge wire than what the plug is rated for.
 
I would guess that the warning against using a dryer cord probably has to do with environmental factors - dryer cords usually get installed once and never touched again or exposed to UV light/oil/solvents/etc., so they are generally made with very cheap insulation which is not particularly durable.

As far as the clearance from the wall - the cooling on a compressor is usually pretty minimal (note the tiny cooling fins,) so interfering with the airflow can cause overheating pretty easily. If you can place the compressor so that the fan blows air along the wall instead of towards it, you may be able to get away with less clearance.

At the end of the day, I'm sure both warnings have more to do with lawsuits than engineering, but if you install it wrong and it burns down your house, you may be SOL in the eyes of the insurance company...

Good luck.
 
From the installation manual: "Provide a minimum clearance of 18 inches between the compressor flywheel or fan to the wall..."

If you can turn the compressor so that the fan isn't facing the wall, you should be able to push it right up to the wall without interfering with the airflow.

I don't see anything in the manual warning against using a dryer cord.
 
The 18" may be for servicing components on the compressor too.
 
I have a 5hp 2 stage compressor that I am running with a dryer cord. It has been running for 7 years now. The cords and plug were cheap, actually I had them from when I made a temporary dryer extension cord.
I have a knife switch before the outlet so it doesn't matter. BTW, my breaker is 30A.

My compressor is still on the pallet. It helps with noise. You bolt that thing down and it will be a lot noisier.
Mine is in the basement and I have it piped inside and outside. I also used a short reinforced vinyl hose to attach the compressor to the piping.
 
I think the dryer cord has to do with if you see the plug, it is suppose to wired correctly for that device. So a dryer plug should be wired to power a dryer. a stove plug should be wired to power a stove. Electricity doesn't care either way, both are over built but the next guy might try to plug something in there.
BTW, my real dryer plug got changed out to a duplex 20a receptacle as I have asko laundry pair.
A dryer plug does make the most sense as a dryer would get warm and vibrate like a compressor. In a industrial setting, they may need to be hard wired by code so no plug was developed. At home you can do as you wish.
 

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