AHC Sensor Adjustment for Lift (2 Viewers)

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Seems like the move is to add rear spacers if you are going to attempt the sensor lift to help keep ahc pressures in spec?
 
Seems like the move is to add rear spacers if you are going to attempt the sensor lift to help keep ahc pressures in spec?
Or, add king springs. Depends on what you intend to do with it...

Spacers if you just want the lift and no additional weight changes to the rear of the vehicle
Stiffer / taller springs if you want the lift and add weight
Both, if you want more height and anticipate even more weight. E.g. replacement rear bumper/armor with swingout tire carrier, gas cans, etc.
 
Seems like the move is to add rear spacers if you are going to attempt the sensor lift to help keep ahc pressures in spec?
Yes, but really you should be measuring pressures. If you do a sensor lift and we assume you are starting with good pressures (you have to measure otherwise the more accurate assumption is that your pressures are terrible), you need to compensate for that with stiffer springs or spacers to maintain that pressure balance.

AHC is a combo of mechanical and hydraulic support. They work together to hold the car up. The hydraulic support force is relatively fixed. If you want to raise the vehicle you have to run higher pressures (which is dumb) or you have to modify the mechanical support (spacer or higher spring-rate springs, like King).

Regardless of doing a sensor lift or not, get your pressures. They're often wrong and very easy to fix.
 
I decided to try and give the rear a little bump up to get the rake back. And I couldn’t get the nut off. And the linkage kinda twisted in a way I’m not positive it should. Does it kind of have some twist to it to account for the movement? I sure hope so. Either way it’s soaking in on blaster and I have a new link sub assembly ordered just in case I broke something. I need to stop touching stuff 😂

Edit: it looks like the threading sticking out from the arm does have some wiggle/rotation to it, huh? Okay maybe I didn’t break anything. I’ll just stick with the pb blaster for now.
 
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If you want 2.5", you'll have to shorten the heim joint (I used a cut-off wheel) and then used the existing stop-nuts to "smooth out the thread" and actually remove the stop nuts completely. Be careful because one side is a reverse thread. Not many people I know have a reverse cut tap/die set.

I'm wondering if someone can ellaborate on this process a little to get to 2.5" sensor lift in front? I mean specifically shortening the helm joint... A cut off wheel?

Attached is a photo of my setup currently, arrows pointing to the things I assume they're referencing, and then the photo for reference from this quote showing the result.

Screenshot_11_16_22__5_21_PM.jpg


front.jpg
 
Yes will get you to about 2.5", but I would not recommend going past 2". Be prepared to lose some handling characteristics & your CV boots will most likely leak. In addition, I installed some SPC adjustable upper corntrol arms to help me get back the caster that I lost with the 2:" lift.
 
Just did mine, here are some pictures;

Shortened the L&R joints, before and after measurements;
814F5387-1FA0-4552-9301-51695E0E6B44.jpeg


Added a bracket in the rear to raise the eye level of the joint, rear Ironman 30mm trim packer is also visible;
IMG_4094.jpeg


Before and after front AHC shock mount spacer.
425AF7BD-0F86-4C4D-A759-7299591D5C9F.jpeg


Rear AHC shock spacer;
IMG_4092.jpeg
 

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