Does my '07 look like it's had a sensor lift or is it stock? Everything I know about this truck says it should be stock but man it looks high. This was taken just after coming off the trail and starting to air up.
what wheels are these? looks good
AHC Sensor Adjustment for Lift
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what wheels are these? looks good
I did this tonight . I shortened the front joint as much as possible without cutting, moved the rear to the top of the slot.
The truck will no longer go to H. Only flashes and stays in N. I gained about 1.5" in the front and over 2 in the rear. Basically in H mode in N.
The rear doesn't look right either. I'm about to check pressures and lower the rear sensor down some. I think it has something to do with my rig having the LC springs in the rear but I'm not sure. Anyone else had this issue?
Edit ****
the picture below was halfway through adjusting to H. When I cranked the truck the front tries to come up to match the rear then tops out and goes back down, then the rear comes down to match the front. I'm at 21.5 front and 22.5 rear but it won't go to H
The truck will no longer go to H. Only flashes and stays in N. I gained about 1.5" in the front and over 2 in the rear. Basically in H mode in N.
The rear doesn't look right either. I'm about to check pressures and lower the rear sensor down some. I think it has something to do with my rig having the LC springs in the rear but I'm not sure. Anyone else had this issue?
Edit ****
the picture below was halfway through adjusting to H. When I cranked the truck the front tries to come up to match the rear then tops out and goes back down, then the rear comes down to match the front. I'm at 21.5 front and 22.5 rear but it won't go to H
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Thats expected if you adjust it too much. Its like being in H all the time but there is no access to the H mode.
You really shouldn't be adjusting sensors until you have Techstream up and running so you can monitor pressures.
What you're experiencing is the expected behavior.
Lower the rear sensor. Make sure all electrical connectors are secure.
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Yeah I finally got it straight. I posted the results in another thread. My front pressures were way to high once back in range all is good
When yall are shortening that rod on the front end are you removing tires and pulling it out, shortening then reinstalling or just shortening on vehicle?
I did it all with the tires on with the vehicle on the ground. Would be easier with tires off though
Driver is not bad with wheel on. Passenger is better with wheel removed though.
I just wanna get rid of this rake! Probably will shoot for an inch in the front and actually drop the rear sensor a bit
I replaced all the existing bushings on my 00 LX. Unfortunately I didn’t took any before pictures for the sensors and measurements of wheels to fender. Once I installed everything back then for the rear arm where the sensor connects I installed it in a wrong way. Once I took it for test drive it flashes OFF. So I turned around and came back then I found the rear sensor assembly got squeezed but they kept was sitting high or like before. Then I took the control arm off and installed the sensor as per diagram from the 1st post. Since then truck wouldn’t move anywhere on L or N. It will go 1.5 inch up on H. Please take a look at the screen shots. I also had to disconnect the TB’s to remove front control arms. I think I need to adjust them too. All my numbers are not even close to factory. I was watching a video from yotamd which was very helpful. I think I will order one after market rear sensor assembly. Please let me know if you guys have any suggestions. My rig was running fine except noise from old bushings. Now there’s no noise but it sits so low on the rear. Feels like I am never getting close to finish.
With those tech stream numbers the truck must be sitting very weird. I'd be interested to see a photo
If you disconnected the torsion bars you definitely have a lot of cranking to do to get them where they need to be. Did you index them when you put them back in? I think it needs an 8 spline offset from one end to the other to preload the bar. You should crank them until your hub to fender measumrent is around 19.5" on each side. Once those are even then check your pressures with tech stream. Rear hub to fender should be around 20.5"
If you didn't "index" the bar correctly you probably won't have enough thread on the adjuster nut to crank the bar high enough. That means you'll have to pull it out and reset it.
As for the rear sensor I'm not sure what's going on. Probably need some pictures of it.
Thanks for your response. Here are some pictures for the rear sensor. I am planning to take it off today to inspect it.
Does the height sensor adjustment in front or the torsion bars tightening affects the rear as well?
My 98 has uneven rear suspension height (right is lower) after I replaced the front control arms, and disconnected the torsion bars.
Now I'm not sure if the rear was uneven before, I only now notice that.
If the only way to adjust the rear is the rear height sensor, a lower suspension on one side is the sign of a tired spring?
My 98 has uneven rear suspension height (right is lower) after I replaced the front control arms, and disconnected the torsion bars.
Now I'm not sure if the rear was uneven before, I only now notice that.
If the only way to adjust the rear is the rear height sensor, a lower suspension on one side is the sign of a tired spring?
Sensors front or rear have no control over side to side lean in the 100. The mechanical springs/torsion bars control side to side lean 100%.
A mismatch left to right is somewhat common in the 100 (AHC or not). Front torsion bar adjustment can affect the rear stance. Rear springs are sometimes marked left or right and some people mix them upon reassembly or a new install.
Start by matching front left and right since that's free (adjust T-bars). Then measure how different the back really is. If an inch or more, check springs and see if by chance you've got the coils mixed up (unsure how you'd do that when installed, but I suspect it's possible).
30mm spacers are available as a fix if you happen to have one side an inch or so off.
BullElk
SILVER Star
Just did this to my '06 LX. ......shortened front turn buckle bolt all the way without cutting it and moved it up on bracket. It looks to have raised the front 1.25-1.5" and about even with the rear, maybe a tad higher. Feels and looks like in H mode in the front but not too high comparing to the rear. I did not move rear sensor at all. As of right now after one cycle thru, it goes in H N L properly and now the new H is XH. I like it. I think I will do the same to three more LXs.
BullElk
SILVER Star
After doing the above and then also moved rear bracket adjustment only halfway to top from factory setting. Not sure if that changed anything at all.
However, first picture is the new N higher settings. The second picture is the new N plus the AHC 50 mph hack…. press H for 3-4 seconds then press OFF. Engine off then back on.
Applying both result in just below true H.
However, first picture is the new N higher settings. The second picture is the new N plus the AHC 50 mph hack…. press H for 3-4 seconds then press OFF. Engine off then back on.
Applying both result in just below true H.
Are you checking adjusting pressures/swapping rear coils while doing this?
BullElk
SILVER Star
Nope. Just making adjustments as mentioned. I have turned TBs. a few turns randomly over time.
After a short drive and play with the H and L, it just sat at the normal height. There's a small difference between left and right side (front and rear).
The car is on stands now as I'm finishing some rust fixing, as soon as it's on the road again I'll play with the TB and level it. I have the cable to read Techstream on order, so I'll take a look at all the values before taking the car for an alignment.
Thanks!
