AHC Removal Time - Any Tips & Tricks?

[67FASTBACKFAN]

Its about time for me to remove the AHC system from my 01 LX.

I've read most of the threads here on the removal process, and feel pretty confident about doing it myself. I'm hoping to use a friends garage with a lift to make it easier.

I'm wondering if any of you, who have removed the AHC system have any advice for someone about to do it. Any tips, or tricks to make the process smoother. Anything you would have done differently, or done in a different order.

First time working with a hydraulic system, so I'm wondering, what is the best/easiest way to relieve the pressure on the system/drain the fluid?

Thanks!

 

[Actualeyes]

I know just from removing the accumulator assemblies at times, and trying to get to wiring and the like that runs along the top of the chassis rails, that if you are really taking it all off you've got a lot of mind-numbingly slow 12mm spanner work at full extension in locations that my hands weren't designed to fit, let alone put any force on the spanner!

Watch those knuckles!

 

[artwerks]

Here are some tips (if you've read all the threads on AHC, then you have probably seen all of this already):

1. If you don't already have it, buy at least a 12mm spanning ratchet. You can use a 22mm (I think) to remove the front/rear shocks top nuts, but the OME shocks top nuts are different size (not sure off the top of my head).
2. You may want one of those clamp things that have a chain that you can wrap around the AHC shock body to hold it in place while torquing on the top nut. I used a plumbers wrench and bent the s*** out of the shock bodies, but what the hell, I threw them away.
3. Wash the underside of your truck. I ended up with left over trail remnants all over my face whilst doing this.
4. Drain the AHC fluid using valves on the globes. They look like zerk fittings. Be careful when you do the front globes as the whole front will lower to the bump stops! When I did this, not all of the fluid drained, but I have yet to remove the reservoir under the hood.
5. Use a tube/hose to catch and drain the fluid to a receptacle. Be prepared to make a freakin' mess! Also, fluid is fed to the shocks from the top through the drilled out shock top nut. When you remove the shocks, if you don't keep them upright, fluid will fall out.
6. Be patient with the rear shocks top nuts. They appear impossible at first, but it IS possible. Remove your spare tire if it's there and sit upright, under the truck where the spare use to be.
7. You will NOT get the AHC line removed from the rear of the frame as it's bolted into the top of the frame milimeters from the body. I believe this to be impossible to get at without lifting the body off the frame.
8. You can remove the rest of the AHC line with some force and coercion around the frame and other parts. Just be careful of the brake lines that happen to run right along side them.
   
9. Again, ratchet spanners saved me frustration and a LOT of time! I took one of the globes off without a ratchet spanner and it took about 1, unsuccessful hour. With a ratchet spanner it took me about 10 min to remove all!

That's all I've done so far.
I haven't seen a really good, technical, detailed thread for complete removal of the AHC and replacement with aftermarket lift.


Good luck and let us know how it goes.


Art

 

[Wilsil]

I will follow this thread.

 

[67FASTBACKFAN]

artwerks: Thanks for the info.

Just curious, how long did it take you to do yours?

 

[67FASTBACKFAN]

Also, I've already bought the 22mm spanner wrench with a flexible end.

For the 12mm spanner, is it better to have a straight, angle or flexible end?

 

[sonofshin]

Maybe search for user Brock's build thread also. Around page 8 or 9 he goes through this whole process with pretty good detail. Im real close to doing this on my 470 as well. Good luck.

 

[artwerks]

Also, I've already bought the 22mm spanner wrench with a flexible end.

For the 12mm spanner, is it better to have a straight, angle or flexible end?

Flex end spanner might be better, but I had little problem with a straight spanner.

Shocks only (not including removing other AHC components) took me about 8 hours. Probably would've been quicker if I had gotten the right tools before I started. You're on the right track.

Now, if you can get all the AHC fluid lines removed, especially the one at the rear shocks, let me know because I'm stuck on that one.

 

[67FASTBACKFAN]

I think we got it worked out to do it in a couple weeks.

So anyone have any any other tips?

 

[Wilsil]

Take pictures and write a report of how it is done.

 

[3D FJ]

Try not to spill the ahc fluid. It's pretty slippery.

 

[67FASTBACKFAN]

Try not to spill the ahc fluid. It's pretty slippery.

Yeah, I've heard of big messes, and being a friends garage, I plan on buying a few tarps.

 

[artwerks]

It's an EXTREME mess! And I almost busted my s*** slipping on it more than once :/
I used a hose to try and capture most of the fluid, but it's almost impossible not to spill some.
Just keep in mind that you can't empty the shocks so when you pull them out keep them straight up and down or you will empty them on the floor.

 

[Brian Waag]

67 - Did you ever rip out the AHC system? I'm on the verge of doing the same myself and was wondering how it went, if you did indeed do it. If so and you took pics, please update this thread with them and any suggestions such as, maybe having someone else do it cause it was a pain in the a**, or it wasn't that bad, etc. Also, assuming you installed the new suspension yourself as well? If so, what did you replace it with? I'm thinking of the OME 3" heavy as I tow a small pop up trailer with custom suspension.

Thanks

 

[artwerks]

Brian,

I think that removing the AHC is pretty straight forward, but if you do a search you will find at least a few tips that will help. Pictures are what a serious AHC removal thread really needs, but lacks in every thread :/

Here are my top basic tips:
1. Removing the rear shocks is the biggest PITA! It's doable, but be prepared to spend some time there.
2. Try not to spill the AHC fluid. It's seriously slippery when wet.
3. When or if you remove the AHC lines just be careful of the brake lines that run right next to them.
4. You will not be able to remove the rear shock AHC lines without lifting the body off the frame. You can cut them shorter, however.
5. You will need ratchet spanners to remove the rear shocks, globes and accumulator at least. The ratchet spanners are useful elsewhere too.

I replaced my AHC with the 2.5" heavy lift from Slee. The same one you're considering, I believe. If you follow the directions, have no problems with the rear shocks and have the right tools you should have no major issues. It's a one banana job if you have patience.

 

[67FASTBACKFAN]

I replaced everything last week. Artwerks is right. Its pretty straight forward once you get going. A friend of mine has a garage with a lift so I took it over there and the two of us got all the major stuff done in about 4 hours.

I wanted to take out all the accumulators, lines, reservoir, etc. out while it was up on the lift, but he was done messing with it, and since it was his garage I didn't want to over stay my welcome. Once I got it home I started taking out all the leftover pieces. You can get all that done in a day. The worst part was doing it all on my back in the garage.

Having the right tools for the job is a major help. Some things that you will definitely want are: 12mm flex head spanner, 22mm deep well wrench, 3/8 flex head socket wrench, vice grips, 12"+ slip lock/ tongue grove pliers.

The 3/8 flex head socket is best for getting the rear 12mm bolts off the top of the rear shocks as a standard socket doesn't allow for a lot of room.

22mm deep & 12" Pliers are best for removing the rear shocks. Bend the 22mm in a vice to clear all other components, and then use the pliers to turn the shock body while the wrench stays in place on the nut.

12mm flex head spanner is best for all the accumulators and other AHC peices. Accessing the bolts on top of the frame rail are the worst, but if you take your time, and find the best angle of attack it can be done.

Once I got everything out I sprayed everything down with cleaner, because you will have AHC fluid everywhere, sprayed everything out.

 

[67FASTBACKFAN]

4. You will not be able to remove the rear shock AHC lines without lifting the body off the frame. You can cut them shorter, however.

I was able to get these off with the 12mm spanner. Just takes some time figuring out the right angle. I was able to reach over the muffler on the passenger side and barely squeeze past the gas tank on the driver side. You'll be doing it blind. One hand feeling for the bolt head and the other hand putting the wrench on.

 

[67FASTBACKFAN]

And forgot to mention, all parts were replaced with OEM LC parts. New shocks and take offs of springs and TB's

 

[67FASTBACKFAN]

One final note. After driving for a week I'm almost regretting not going for the Bilsteins. Not 100% regretting, just wish it had a little more responsiveness. It feels "Floaty" right now. I plan on updating all sway bar bushings later down the road to see if that helps tighten things up a bit.

 

[Brian Waag]

Well, after debating for a couple of months, I pussed out and brought it in this afternoon to a local 4x4 shop. The guy had never ripped out an AHC system, however he is a very reputable suspension shop and does alot of work on Toyotas. I just don't have the time or patience to do it myself. So, now will have a pile of parts to do something with. Anyone try to sell the AHC stuff? The system was working just fine so may try to post the parts in the classifieds.