AHC and alignment

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I fought nuts & bolts with my 1/2" breaker bar with long pipe for leverage for years. Problem is flex, any and tough bolts or nuts will not break loose. Now my favorite tools is the 3/4" breaker bar. I use it much more than my cheapo impacted wrench 120 PSI.

Really tough bolts & nuts need penetrating oil soaking to start. The add more penetrating oil as it cools, form torch and/or cooling from fiction on each hard turn.
 
When things get seized up like that use a propane torch and try and heat it up. Be prepared if you break the adjuster bolt off there is a lot of stored energy when it lets go. Impact guns are not necessarily stronger than a good breaker with an extension. I have had good impact guns rattle away and the only way was a breaker with extension and heat. Keep your hands away when breaking those loose.
 
You would need some serious power to break that 30mm bolt.

Impact gun and breaker bar are both different tools and I use them in different applications. I just think it's the best bet to freeing up a stuck adjuster bolt because the vibration/repeated force really can get things moving. I feel you'd be fighting it the whole way with a breaker bar.

Not trying to poo poo the breaker bar at all (I rarely use my impact), just saying I think it's best for the given application. Mainly because of the repeated force applications. But like OP stated, they're expensive and no help if you don't have one.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Sounds like the 3/4" breaker bar has had some success so I'll get one and a 1/2" adaptor for the socket. I'm glad you pointed out that I have a 12 point socket. I'll definitely get a 6 point socket and have another go at it with some heat and a bigger breaker bar. An impact wrench will be an option and a good tool to have for lug nuts. I hope that when it finally breaks loose that it starts to turn easier because I have 7 turns CW to go on each side.
 
You would need some serious power to break that 30mm bolt.

Impact gun and breaker bar are both different tools and I use them in different applications. I just think it's the best bet to freeing up a stuck adjuster bolt because the vibration/repeated force really can get things moving. I feel you'd be fighting it the whole way with a breaker bar.

Not trying to poo poo the breaker bar at all (I rarely use my impact), just saying I think it's best for the given application. Mainly because of the repeated force applications. But like OP stated, they're expensive and no help if you don't have one.

Not taking a shot but it's not a 30mm bolt the head is. It will break...ask me how I know. If you want to use an impact go to a truck tire shop and ask them to use their 3/4 inch gun any 1/2 inch is whistling in the wind. They will charge you a nominal fee cheap and easy . Have replacement parts incase they twist one in half.
 
While I understand the risk of shearing off a bolt, this frightens me a great deal. I think time, patience, Kroil, leverage and heat will make the difference. I'm not going to replace anymore parts unless absolutely necessary. I have about $2,800 worth of catalytic converters I need to buy before anything else. I'm starting to get a little sick of this truck. Once I get it back in top shape, there's a good chance I'll sell this thing. I'm just not happy with the quality of this vehicle. My 1997 F350 doesn't have hardly any rust compared to this POS. Parts are ridiculously expensive and the maintenance is wearing me out and this is only after 2 months of ownership!

I haven't enjoyed this truck at all since I've owned it. It's just one headache after another. Unfortunately, I'm not as dishonest as the guy who traded this in and I would never sell a vehicle in this condition. So, I have to get it back to fully functioning and catch up on the maintenance before I can sell it if I plan to get anywhere near what I paid for it.

End of rant.
 
Finally got the adjusters turning tonight after several soaks and lots of leverage. No broken bolts, either. Gave each side 6 CW turns and got the front pressure down to 6.7. The truck tracks much better without any pull to either side and the ride is better. The rear pressure is 7.0 so I'm good all the way around. I don't think I need an alignment now, either. Time and pressure with lots of Kroil did the trick. My right arm is already sore from pulling on that 3/4" breaker bar for several hours. Thanks to everyone for the tips and tricks!

Here's the starting pressure at 8.8:

AHC 8_8.jpg


Here's the pressure after 3 turns CW:

AHC 7_8.jpg


Here's the final pressure after 3 more turns CW:

AHC 6_7_1.jpg
 
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