Aftermarket replacement amplifier for 2000 Nakamichi system (1 Viewer)

[katit]

Question to all in a same boat.

I have bad amplifier (one channel blown) and from what I understand used ones will be hit and miss (all old with dry capacitors, etc)
So, there is no plug and play replacement.
I am OK with rewiring and installing something aftermarket. What I don't want to do is - I don't want to run separate power, I don't want to replace speakers.
I just want this amp to drive 4 factory speakers + amp on factory power.

Is such animal exist? If so, can you suggest a model? I assume it might be something compact as it's probably not a high power unit.

Bonus question: Is factory speakers/amp 4 ohm?

 

[TexLexican]

Also interested. But how do you know for sure the amp has kicked the bucket?

 

[katit]

Also interested. But how do you know for sure the amp has kicked the bucket?

Not yet. Today I will know. I have HU connected to factory harness and FL channel doesn't play. I re-checked my connection and tried different channel. Whatever is sent to FL channel to factory harness doesn't work. I will try today to send different amp output to FL speaker and see if that works. And if it does - I know it's amp.

 

[katit]

Well. I am not simply puzzled. I have no IDEA what is going on Electronics is not my thing. I do understand it's all about contacts and conductivity but..

Here is the thing. FR channel was "humming". I took amp out, connected everything - all works!!!
I put amp back, connected - FR hums. WTF?

At first I noticed when I connect amp body to ground it would mute/him FR channel. I thought maybe it's some kind of internal amp short.

Then I connected amp separately again, started to wiggle harness here and there around connector (input signals) in question.



As you see - something is wrong with wiring? I removed insulation, separated wires, was trying each and every one - FR channel wires when wiggled both would do it. But again, I can bend them in certain position and then I can pull/push at connector and I can't figure where it is!!! At the end I figured when I push on connector it would do it, took amp apart, inspected all solderings - NOTHING. Connected as is and tried pushing - it wouldn't do it. Tried wiggling wires - it does it.

So, one side of me tells me that it's almost impossible in Toyota to have wiring issue. But it's not seem to be amp issue either. Any suggestions?

 

[katit]

Or maybe it is amp??

Light pushing on connector causes this. Does sound like broken solder on PCB. Will take it apart and carefully study those legs again. maybe touch with solder iron, won't hurt at this point..

 

[katit]

I figured why not. Resoldered all legs on input signal connector to amp - and it works! Got to be cold solder /crack somewhere.

 

[MountaineerLC]

I’m not a lot of help with these sort of issues, but…

Are you trying to retain the factory head unit? When I installed an Atoto head unit in my LC I bypassed the amp and sound quality improved dramatically vs the original factory setup. Just something to think about if you’re willing to go to an after market head unit.

 

[katit]

I’m not a lot of help with these sort of issues, but…

Are you trying to retain the factory head unit? When I installed an Atoto head unit in my LC I bypassed the amp and sound quality improved dramatically vs the original factory setup. Just something to think about if you’re willing to go to an after market head unit.

I am installing Teyes CC3 unit, it doesn't have amp in it, so it's out of question. I was trying to retain all the factory wiring. I made wiring harness so all factory stuff intact.

I thought that amp failed and it did but looks like I was able to fix it. Let's see how long it last. If it fails, I would go with cutting wires and aftermarket amp as choice #1.