Aftermarket front control arms

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FYI, did a front end overhaul Feb 2016, used OEM for all parts except using Driveworks UCAs. This is one of the Advance Auto's store brand. At $110 each after coupon, thought I would take a chance. Well saving $400 on these arms just wasn't worth it. Went to put in new shocks today, and both UCA boots are absolutely shredded. POS. My 17 year old arms I pulled out were in better shape (joint boots) Given the crap quality, I'm going to pull the whole arm and install OEM, not just a reboot. Lesson learned, don't waste your time on Driveworks chinese crap.
 
^^^ This is why I always go with OEM or good used toyota part.

Once I had a choice of buying a reman steering rack for my car but ended up getting a 170K mile driven OEM steering rack. It has done 100K mile so far and not a drop of oil is lost!
I am trying to pull some parts out of a rolled 100 series with low miles in about a week or two. Control arms are on the list.
 
I am a new guy and I have a 2005 TLC with about 207k miles. When I bought it 2 years ago, it definitely needed all front suspension ball joints and inner and outer tie rod bushings replaced. As a new guy, I went with the Mevotech premium aftermarket upper and lower control arms and paid a local shop to install them. Now 16 months and 20k miles later I am finding the lower control arm lower ball joint rubber on both sides is split. Very disappointed in Mevotech and now wish I had stayed OEM all the way and had new bushing pressed in to the old OEM Control Arms. Also the way the tech installed the outer tie rods I am getting a rub on the inside of the wheel with the outer tie rod making contact with the wheel. The tech may have installed it wrong. When I sourced another outer tie rod, it looked like the one on the right side. I could use some pix that shows the curve of the OEM outer tie rod connected to the wheel from the top view. Does it curve towards the wheel or to the inside? I have asked Mevotech about their warranty for their premium offerings but have not heard back yet. I got into this when I noticed the tie rod boot had blown out and needed to replace the boot. I am convinced the tech did not secure the boots with the proper metal clip. So you get what you pay for but never get what you do NOT pay for.
 
I have dealt with Toyota's since 1990. Their quality is rocket science. I fbuy OEM new or used. Lot of experience about the quality of their parts: Will share one.
My cousin's 2011 Pilot at 130 K miles have torn front LCA bushings! ON the other hand My Corolla 280K miles, 4Runner 215K miles and LC 237K miles still got front OEm bushings and strong as it can be. Cousin argued it's all rubber.. well... wrong.. Technology and who makes it.

Try to secure OEM used control arms if you like. I know a seller in NY who sells Used OEM control arm shipped upper $75 and lower $45.
 
Thanks, Nissanh. Please provide the source. I will be getting quotes. Regret not retaining the leftover parts when I did the control arm swap 16 months ago. Still interested in some good photos of OEM outer control arms connecting to the wheel.
 
I am a new guy and I have a 2005 TLC with about 207k miles. When I bought it 2 years ago, it definitely needed all front suspension ball joints and inner and outer tie rod bushings replaced. As a new guy, I went with the Mevotech premium aftermarket upper and lower control arms and paid a local shop to install them. Now 16 months and 20k miles later I am finding the lower control arm lower ball joint rubber on both sides is split. Very disappointed in Mevotech and now wish I had stayed OEM all the way and had new bushing pressed in to the old OEM Control Arms. Also the way the tech installed the outer tie rods I am getting a rub on the inside of the wheel with the outer tie rod making contact with the wheel. The tech may have installed it wrong. When I sourced another outer tie rod, it looked like the one on the right side. I could use some pix that shows the curve of the OEM outer tie rod connected to the wheel from the top view. Does it curve towards the wheel or to the inside? I have asked Mevotech about their warranty for their premium offerings but have not heard back yet. I got into this when I noticed the tie rod boot had blown out and needed to replace the boot. I am convinced the tech did not secure the boots with the proper metal clip. So you get what you pay for but never get what you do NOT pay for.

Just for reference purposes, are the Mevotech control arms the ones with blue ball joint boots? Did you buy these at RockAuto?
 
OwnerCS, Yes I bought from RockAuto but the ball joint boots are not blue. I saw the blue boots in the ads. I ordered what I thought was their premium gear.
 
I'm getting ready to replace my rack and want to do the ball joints too. I can get complete front control arms with ball joints for $110 each for the upper and $90 each for the lowers with ball joints. Brand is mevotech.
Stay away from Mevotech control arms. I bought the “supreme” lower control arms from Rock Auto. The weld fixturing accuracy is terrible, shock tabs were way off angle and width was way too narrow. The rear leg is too narrow to fit over the rear bushing, and the bolts holes are out of alignment causing bushings to deform just getting the bolts installed (using jack & hammer). Also the sleeves in the holes for the torsion torque bracket bolts are not concentric and the bolts don’t fit. Spent much time trying to make them work and did get them on, but my OCD made me remove them and rebuild my OEM arms with 555 BJs from Cruiser TEQ and Febest bushing. Muy bueno!
 
Agree completely that Mevotech components should not be considered. My OEM LCA's and outer tie rods came in and are being installed this weekend. Wish I had read your post before I cheaped out. Life lessons can be expensive. OEM is the way to go. The quality of the rubber in the bushings will last a lot longer.
 
Can anyone share their experiences that led to a lower control arm replacement? I see some that do the bushings more often than replacing the enire unit with bushings. Just curious. Thnx
 
FYI, did a front end overhaul Feb 2016, used OEM for all parts except using Driveworks UCAs. This is one of the Advance Auto's store brand. At $110 each after coupon, thought I would take a chance. Well saving $400 on these arms just wasn't worth it. Went to put in new shocks today, and both UCA boots are absolutely shredded. POS. My 17 year old arms I pulled out were in better shape (joint boots) Given the crap quality, I'm going to pull the whole arm and install OEM, not just a reboot. Lesson learned, don't waste your time on Driveworks chinese crap.

Some years ago, they were running an introductory promotion on DW front end parts. I was restoring a 95 F150 decided to give it a try replaced everything on the front suspension. About 18 month later, it all started to go out. I took them back and AA credited me for the DW purchase so I could get MOOG. They made it good. This was in the days when you could find a 40% off coupon for online purchases over $200.

Meanwhile, I get to know some of the guys who work there well enough for them to give me the low down on what parts to buy vs. the ones to avoid.

Their comment to me was "we work here and we won't even buy that stuff" only buy that when you are fixing up a car to trade off and you don't care what happens to it. LOL.. no kidding.

But then they sell a brand of parts named Intermotor. Those usually cost more than buying OEM online. I only use them when I'm in a pinch for a part on a weekend and I need it that day. Those parts turned out to be reboxed OEM -- either Aisin, Denso, or Hitachi.

So they have extremes.. Either extremely good or extremely bad.
 
Can anyone share their experiences that led to a lower control arm replacement? I see some that do the bushings more often than replacing the enire unit with bushings. Just curious. Thnx

Just past experience from doing a mid-life refresh (e.g. baseline) on a 20 yo vehicle that I really like, I want it to be setup to last at least another 10 without issue and be able to go even further. I have a 30 yo car that I refreshed 10 years ago that still drives incredibly well.

I've found that in my climate, original rubber bushings start to dry out and harden after roughly 20 years of service. I may not be right, but I believe that a suspension is like complete package that should be responsive and flex on demand. Its all connected and when one part no longer articulates like it did when new, it places stress on other parts that are connected.

I've experienced much improved ride and handling on an old vehicle by replacing the ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings. It is a way for me to bring back that new car feeling.

This is not to say that I will spend more than necessary to reach the goal. I do like to play a game to find quality parts from unlikely sources. Sometimes you win, then sometimes you lose. If I don't try a few new things during a build, then I don't learn how to find something good in an unlikely place. Its about the amount of blood, sweat, tears, and time that it takes to correct something that gauges how far I might venture out from the norm. I don't like to recommend a part unless I've been running it for about 5 years. That is unless its some non-moving part like a coolant or fluid reservoir.

If you had told me in January that I would be installing a Sunsong power steering hose set, I would have said "no way." Yet I bought a set based on recommendations from here and it looks to be a good quality part. I supplemented it by cleaning it with acetone and give it a coat of protective clear to provide an aluminum finish that doesn't tarnish over time.
 
Just past experience from doing a mid-life refresh (e.g. baseline) on a 20 yo vehicle that I really like, I want it to be setup to last at least another 10 without issue and be able to go even further. I have a 30 yo car that I refreshed 10 years ago that still drives incredibly well.

I've found that in my climate, original rubber bushings start to dry out and harden after roughly 20 years of service. I may not be right, but I believe that a suspension is like complete package that should be responsive and flex on demand. Its all connected and when one part no longer articulates like it did when new, it places stress on other parts that are connected.

I've experienced much improved ride and handling on an old vehicle by replacing the ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings. It is a way for me to bring back that new car feeling.

This is not to say that I will spend more than necessary to reach the goal. I do like to play a game to find quality parts from unlikely sources. Sometimes you win, then sometimes you lose. If I don't try a few new things during a build, then I don't learn how to find something good in an unlikely place. Its about the amount of blood, sweat, tears, and time that it takes to correct something that gauges how far I might venture out from the norm. I don't like to recommend a part unless I've been running it for about 5 years. That is unless its some non-moving part like a coolant or fluid reservoir.

If you had told me in January that I would be installing a Sunsong power steering hose set, I would have said "no way." Yet I bought a set based on recommendations from here and it looks to be a good quality part. I supplemented it by cleaning it with acetone and give it a coat of protective clear to provide an aluminum finish that doesn't tarnish over time.
I have the same set of power steering lines on my rebuilt Detroit Axle steering rack. I have one last mystery kerthunk, have ordered Febest upper rear control arm, have the front diff arms and bushing on the way, and Febest. Front diff mount bushings on hand. Some of your posts make me think we are working in parallel, lol. At this point I am leaning towards front lower control arm bushing job, after that I would be at a complete chassis suspension refresh.
 
I have the same set of power steering lines on my rebuilt Detroit Axle steering rack. I have one last mystery kerthunk, have ordered Febest upper rear control arm, have the front diff arms and bushing on the way, and Febest. Front diff mount bushings on hand. Some of your posts make me think we are working in parallel, lol. At this point I am leaning towards front lower control arm bushing job, after that I would be at a complete chassis suspension refresh.


I am testing a new kind of LCA in the picture. I need to run it for a while to see how it performs. I did drill two holes to add LCA reinforcements for a future mod. I didn't want to drill my originals in the event I decided to do something different. Fit and alignment was drop dead perfect. These are not Mevotech.


1590964741652.png
 
I am testing a new kind of LCA in the picture. I need to run it for a while to see how it performs. I did drill two holes to add LCA reinforcements for a future mod. I didn't want to drill my originals in the event I decided to do something different. Fit and alignment was drop dead perfect. These are not Mevotech.


View attachment 2325570
Do tell, where are those LCA’s from?
 
I am testing a new kind of LCA in the picture. I need to run it for a while to see how it performs. I did drill two holes to add LCA reinforcements for a future mod. I didn't want to drill my originals in the event I decided to do something different. Fit and alignment was drop dead perfect. These are not Mevotech.


View attachment 2325570
Any update on the function of these arms? Make?
 

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