Aftermarket clutch

[Mojofilter]

I bought an AISIN CKT-032 clutch kit for my H55F conversion, but I'm not sure this is the correct clutch. The friction disk has rubber cushes installed rather than the heavy springs. Also the TO bearing seams a little cheesy. Should I get an OEM TO bearing from American T here in town (Albuquerque)? Or is the one in the kit adequate?
- Mojofilter

 

[g-man]

I bought this same clutch kit for my 87 fj60...with h55f, in Jan/2018. It has done fine. I think I did replace the T/O bearing but I have seen some posts showing minor differences in dimensions and think an OEM t/o bearing would be the better choice.

 

[g-man]

FYI...do some research on the orientation of the clutch plate and install it right the first time.. It is possible to install it backwards which will NOT work. This will most assuredly cause you extra time and energy of having to go back and pull the transmission and t/case and do it right.

Consider rebuilding your transfer case while it's out.

Consider replacing your rear main seal (RMS) while everything is out. I recommend removing the oil pan and the rear bearing cap and PLACING the RMS instead of driving it in. I cut the inner seal on my first attempt trying to drive it in. Of course you don't know it's not holding until you start the engine and it leaks. then back to pulling the trans/t-case and clutch AGAIN. ugh!

pic of the rear and front bearing caps removed. put some sealer in the corners before putting the cap back on. AND make sure the bottom 1/2 of the bearing doesn't fall out and break when you take the bearing cap off. I was able to remove the lower half of the bearing and inspect it for wear.

#4 bearing cap torque specs above.

 

[dannyvp]

FYI...do some research on the orientation of the clutch plate and install it right the first time.. It is possible to install it backwards which will NOT work. This will most assuredly cause you extra time and energy of having to go back and pull the transmission and t/case and do it right.

Consider rebuilding your transfer case while it's out.

Consider replacing your rear main seal (RMS) while everything is out. I recommend removing the oil pan and the rear bearing cap and PLACING the RMS instead of driving it in. I cut the inner seal on my first attempt trying to drive it in. Of course you don't know it's not holding until you start the engine and it leaks. then back to pulling the trans/t-case and clutch AGAIN. ugh!


pic of the rear and front bearing caps removed. put some sealer in the corners before putting the cap back on. AND make sure the bottom 1/2 of the bearing doesn't fall out and break when you take the bearing cap off. I was able to remove the lower half of the bearing and inspect it for wear.



#4 bearing cap torque specs above.

My clutch is on the way out and my RMS leaks. I just hate to remove everything........(transmission and TC)

 

[MoaByte]

"It will be fun" they said.
I got some issues that will need addressed one day too. The main one being oil migration.
I understand that cam straps will help out a bunch.

 

[Spike Strip]

The Friction disc with the rubber dampers is better (more durable) than the one with springs. DT-075. However, both the Pilot bearing and TO bearing are proprietary to Toyota and are better than available aftermarket. I usually buy the Pressure plate and disc (DT-075) aftermarket Aisin/Seiki and then the Pilot and T.O. from Toyota.

Also a good idea to replace the hub the T.O. bearing sits on while it's still available from Toyota. Some OEM aftermarket sources for that hub, but price is very close to OE.

Good luck!