After removing 3rd row...what are solutions to cover the arch holes?
- Thread starter Madtiger
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@TrekboxX made great fitting covers for the DVD screens. I would assume he could do it, but since he sells drawers, I doubt he would want to make a part that covers for those that don't have drawers.
I thought about putting a 14mm eye bolt into each of the horizontal holes in the cutout for an extra tie down. That would at least make it seem functional.
Amazon product ASIN B07DGB9PRB
I thought about putting a 14mm eye bolt into each of the horizontal holes in the cutout for an extra tie down. That would at least make it seem functional.
Amazon product ASIN B07DGB9PRB
I put black FatMat foam in the holes. It contours nicely and looks better than an empty hole. However, I like the tie-down idea since those in the cargo floor are not placed very conveniently. Black tie downs like those above are going on my next Amazon order!
- Thread starter
- #6
Picture of your fatmat form in the holes??
Those are what I used...cheap and effective.
I've been contemplating making a thermoformed plastic cover that covers both the hole in the carpet and the hole in the fender. I imagine there'd be a market for such a product, but I'm not sure if the volume would be worth the outlay to make any sort of production quantities. Honestly I am surprised nobody has addressed this market before.
OK, I'll be the wiseguy...
WHAT HOLES?
WHAT HOLES?
I don't have anything covering them up....removed the seats, threw the Heritage edition cargo mat in there and called it good. Figured I might eventually come up with something to cover up the metal piece if it bothered me but it really doesn't. But then I realized I have a slight issue in the form of a rattle coming from the rear cargo area. I thought it might be the plastic tailgate piece (that part that bridges the gap from tailgate to cargo area when tailgate is open) but it seems to be the passenger side plastic panels. It's as if the passenger side 3rd row seat and trim piece pressed down on that wheel arch panel and once I removed it, the panel just rattles enough to be annoying at certain times. I can replicate the sound by tapping on various areas, and I don't hear the same sound coming from the driver's side when doing the same, so I'm pretty sure that's it. But so far I've been unsuccessful in my attempts to stop it....stuffing foam and microfiber towels in various places just trying to narrow it down so that I can then come up with a more elegant solution. It seems like it would be an easy fix but I am getting fairly frustrated with it at this point. If any of you have noticed the same and solved the problem, I'd love to know what you did!
- Thread starter
- #11
Ok...mental note...keep 3rd row in.
I HATE rattles. Actually, that is ONE of the main reason i got LC over other SUVs.
I can see the dealer saying "dude, you removed the seat, we can't cover this rattle under warranty now. Put the seat back and we'll take a look at it."
Maybe you could have someone else drive it slowly down a bumpy road while you sit in the back and push on the panels to try to locate the spot where it's rattling. Those big plastic panels are pretty intimidating, but they are surprisingly easy to remove, you just have to be patient and work slowly. Maybe one of the MANY little pop clips got left out when they put it together, or it's not properly "popped" in.
Some self-stick foam weatherstrip can also fix a lot of these things. You just gotta figure out where it is.
Yeah, I have no intention of taking it to dealer. It’s not that big a deal...just a little rattle at low speeds. Totally covered up by road noise and radio at speed. But I know it’s there and I’ll figure out a fix eventually. I already have some adhesive foam around the edge of that removable trim panel at right rear. That did nothing. I really think it’s the large panel over wheel well, so that’s where I’m going to focus.
I'd like to see how spray foam works for you... spray it in, contour it, and paint it.
No way I’m trying that stuff on my interior! Way too messy, impossible to remove, might have some odor (I’m super picky about maintaining new car smell as much as possible), etc.
I’ll end up getting something to muffle the sound. Likely some kind of foam stuffed somewhere. Also might consider Dynamat if I can find a place to put it that I think would be effective.
On my older truck I did this in two steps.
First, found a bit of carpet pad and fit it in the opening, with a slice so some of it could go under the raised portion that has the captive nut. Made smaller pieces to lay on top so the foam would make a base that somewhat of blended in with the plastic side panels.
Second, cut some circles out of a remnant piece of black indoor/outdoor carpet (had black interior panels). Punched a hole in them and slid the edges up under the plastic but over the foam padding. Ran the mounting bolt back in through the hole to keep it in place.
Wasn't all that pretty, but I judged it better than seeing the metal and plastic. Thought maybe the foam would help a bit with sound coming out of the wheel well opening without the seats in place, but honestly don't think it did anything.
First, found a bit of carpet pad and fit it in the opening, with a slice so some of it could go under the raised portion that has the captive nut. Made smaller pieces to lay on top so the foam would make a base that somewhat of blended in with the plastic side panels.
Second, cut some circles out of a remnant piece of black indoor/outdoor carpet (had black interior panels). Punched a hole in them and slid the edges up under the plastic but over the foam padding. Ran the mounting bolt back in through the hole to keep it in place.
Wasn't all that pretty, but I judged it better than seeing the metal and plastic. Thought maybe the foam would help a bit with sound coming out of the wheel well opening without the seats in place, but honestly don't think it did anything.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I used some kydex to make covers for the mounting points on the wheel wells. They look like crap, and I should just remove them, but I'm too lazy. I'm waiting eagerly (and patiently) for Land Shark's new Reef drawer system to be available, so I can get them and cover the whole thing up.
bloc
SILVER Star
My third row has been out for almost 50k miles. Zero rattles.
Also if you do the HE cargo mat and want a spacer to fill the holes in the carpet to avoid soft spots where they are located, 1x6 can be cut to fit in there and is almost exactly the height of the top of the carpet. When I take trips I put a pelican cooler back there and one of the feet is right over the pass-side carpet hole, causing it to rock around furiously on trail. The 1x6 chunk allows me to strap it down and avoid movement.
Also if you do the HE cargo mat and want a spacer to fill the holes in the carpet to avoid soft spots where they are located, 1x6 can be cut to fit in there and is almost exactly the height of the top of the carpet. When I take trips I put a pelican cooler back there and one of the feet is right over the pass-side carpet hole, causing it to rock around furiously on trail. The 1x6 chunk allows me to strap it down and avoid movement.
I've looked at the uncovered holes in other trucks and thought about making something out of fiberglass and painting it. Use clear packing tape to get the profile you want and then form the cover in place. Remove, contour, paint. Install with either double stick tape or figure out some way to secure it to the bracket underneath with a screw. I'm not saying it's a good idea... probably isn't worth the effort. I have my rear seats in the vehicle.
